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How To: Ebay UnderDrive Pulley install

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 1:25 am
by danman132x
We'll I received my ebay underdrive pulley and installed it. Here are some guidelines to follow. It is really worth it to install one of these. It was frustrating along the way at times, but nothing you can't handle.

I first took my tire off, removed the splash guard, disconnected the negative battery cable, and removed the belts. The AC/PS belt is a piece of cake. The alternator, you have to loosen the lower pivot bolt, the upper bolt, and then you can start turning the 3rd bolt to loosen the belt.

The alternator bolts and bracket are 15mm and the adjustment bolt is a 13mm.

Remove the alternator belt, then work on removing the rest of the alternator bolts. There are 3 that need to be removed. Next you much also remove the bracket the alt sits on. It's also only 3 bolts, which are 15mm. I pulled the entire alt assembly and bracket out the bottom, after removing the small bar that's in the way. I dont have a pic of this, but you can't miss it. It's held in by two bolts. Anyways, on to my install of the new Ebay UDP...

Next I started to loosen the crank bolt. I could not get the crank to stop turning, so I grabbed a flathead screwdriver and stuck it in one of the holes. Your not supposed to do this, but it's the only way I could get it to stop turning, and lucky my bolt came off pretty easy and my timing belt cover didn't crack either.

I then grabbed my chrysler specific puller and the longest insert and started threading it in. This was a pain because I didn't have a socket that fits it, so I had to use a huge monkey wrench. I proceeded all the way with the long insert until I no longer could. I backed it off, pulled off the puller, but the crank pulley still wouldnt budge. Lucky I read about a neat lil trick, and grabbed a plain ole bit. Same on both ends, as seen in a video. Stuck it in the bolt, then the long extension on top, and viola, long enough to finish removing the crank pulley.

Once it was off, I cleaned the snount very well, and also gave it a VERY minor sanding. It had all sorts of burrs in it, and i'm guessing the dealer did this when I brought it in for a timing belt change. One thing I did notice when I got it back from the timing belt change, the crank pulley "wobbled" very slightly when idleing, and after removing it, the middle small hole was also not perfectly round, where the bolt passes through.

Install was a HUGE PITA for me. It took FOUR tries. First time, used my MAPP torch to heat it up. Slid on just a lil bit. Nope, but now it was stuck on the crank snout so I had to use the puller to remove it. Ugh. Tried again, this time icing the snout. Still no avail. Got it on slightly more, but still not enough. Removed again, and stuck it in the oven for 20 mins at 450 degrees. This gave WORSE results than heating it with the torch. I was ready to give up, but this time I iced the snout for a longer time, and REALLY heated up the center part that slides on the snout. I removed the pulley part since it's a 2 piece, and used channel locks to hold it while I heated it up. This time I heated it up till the metal turned Blue ( I hope all this excessive heat didnt do damage to it, but I dont think so. Just permanently discolored the center piece, as you will see in the videos and pics) This time it finally slid all the way on, with a nice thunk when it bottomed out. I was sooo releived. Took a trip to autozone where they used an impact gun to remove my pulley on the alternator, and put on my Lorenzo ODP.

I want to clear this up here also. The alternator OverDrive pulley is SMALLER than the stock alternator pulley. This allows it to spin FASTER to make up for some of the losses you get from the UDP on the crank. Some people think it's the opposite, but since the alt. ODP is smaller than the stock pulley, it allows the alt to spin faster.

The Lorenzo ODP installed flawlessly, and I got to installing everything back on the car. I'm sure you can do this if you got this far ;) put the alt back in place, throw some belts on, and start it up to check.

These are the two belt sizes I used. Keep in mind, I have an alternator ODP installed, so the alt belt is about 1 inch shorter than what you would need without the Lorenzo ODP.

Goodyear Gatorback belts
4040305 or 4040310 alternator belt
4040500 PS/AC belt

On to the pictures, and then video links at the very bottom.

Both new pulleys I'm installing
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stock crank pulley still in place
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comparison of the Lorenzo ODP (grey) and the stock alt pulley
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the chrysler puller in place
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comparison of the stock crank pulley and my ebay one
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Middle part of UDP on the crank. This pic was not fully seated
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The crankshaft "snout"
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ODP installed
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and finally the new UDP in all it's glory. You can see the middle is blue because of all the heat I used
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Here are the video's.
Removing the crank bolt
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbnIddJ3R2o

Small explanation of the puller
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TIApaz0eyI

Last few turns, and removing the stock crank pulley
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXWAHradKM4

First startup with the alt belt installed only
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGoHflybNP4

Second startup with the new UDP installed. Both belts on this time
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k00QN7C8JJU

Took it out for a few spins to redline already, and some normal driving, and it definelty makes the car feel smoother throughout the powerband. There is a slight "butt dyno" feel to it. I also have to say, this new pulley spins perfectly. No wobble what-so-ever, as my stock pulley had. I'm very pleased with the results so far. Miles on new pulley at time of writing this, 47.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 2:30 am
by Fuzzyneon
looking good thinking about picking one up thanks for all the help

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 5:22 am
by Donkeypuncher
If you put the car in gear and wedge a block of wood between the brake and your seat, you can loosen the crank bolt much easier.

I used the same method with the puller last year, works like a charm. I never could get my stock pulley to seat on the snout all the way, even after using heat and ice. I ended up using a longer crank bolt and some washers to seat the pulley all the way.

I might have to snatch one of these up soon.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:19 am
by quicksilvr
All you were missing was an impact wrench. It would have made your life SO much easier. Putting a crank pulley on consists of shoving it one the crank snout by hand and making sure it square. Then put the bolt in and let the impact do all the work of pushing it on. :thumbup: Same goes for taking the bolt out during removal. You don't have to brace anything if you use an impact wrench.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:49 am
by Tam
Very nice write up man! Makes me want to get one now.

Except, I don't have a torch, or impact wrench.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:03 pm
by danman132x
You can always buy a torch around 20, and an impact wrench only makes the job easier. I didn't have one, and managed. You can do it :thumbup:

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 1:30 pm
by Adionik
You should probably invest in a tool set. I can't believe you used a monkey wrench...that's like punishing yourself haha.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 2:20 pm
by danman132x
I have a craftsman 251 piece tool set, the sockets don't go that big though. Biggest in the set's a 19mm, and 3/4 I think.

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 6:53 pm
by OB
You took it to autozone to borrow an impact gun?! :rofl:


Might consider organizing your post and making a How-To. ;)

Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 9:32 pm
by occasional demons
I bought a length of threaded rod, a ball bearing thrust washer, and a nut to put my oem pulley back on when I did the timing belt.
It woked be-utifully.

The sad part is it cost about as much as a commercially made dampner installer (About $30ish). But try finding one with the metric threads to fit our crank snouts.

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:48 pm
by danman132x
Just an update, I've been driving around now for a few days, got plenty of city and highway driving in, and it's a lot better I have to say. Everything I read is true. The car does not bog down as much when the A/C kicks on, my a/c is still icy for being in florida, the car is smoother throughout the powerband, and I SWEAR my engine runs smoother. There are Less vibrations, and I know this goes back to my stock crank pulley vibrating. When looking straight down at my old crank pulley, there was a visible physical wobble to it, and this one is smooth as butter. Anyways, I definetly give this pulley a :thumbup: In a week I will check the tension of my belts again.

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:57 pm
by occasional demons
:thumbup:

Good deal! I just have to get around to installing mine. Guess I'm just a tired ass! I got mine before you. It's in the car, just not where it needs to be. :roll:

Just need some $ to buy the belts/rent the puller. Dependants FTL!

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:04 pm
by racer12306
If you turn it blue you are messing with the heat treatment of the pulley.

I put mine in the oven for 10 or 15 minutes. It slid right on, all but a little bit and then the bolt brought in on the rest of the way.

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:13 pm
by occasional demons
I think he had the pulley removed from the hub. The hub being steel, I think it will be ok for all it is doing.


danman132x, did you put some thread locker on the three bolts?

You may want to just for piece of mind.
The blue 242, not the red 271 or you would need to heat it again just to get the screws out.

Edit: If you didn't, all you will need to do is one at a time, so it doesn't move. That way the belts can stay in place. You only need one of those little sample tubes, as it is a bit pricey.

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:16 pm
by danman132x
racer12306 wrote:If you turn it blue you are messing with the heat treatment of the pulley.

I put mine in the oven for 10 or 15 minutes. It slid right on, all but a little bit and then the bolt brought in on the rest of the way.
I didn't want to turn it blue, but it was the only way it slid on for me. Oven at 450 for 20 mins didn't do anything close to the torch. I just hopeI didn't weaken it a lot. It's still blueish in color, but it is on there sound.

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:43 pm
by dblsg
nice job!

when i did mine on the 05, i just threw it in the oven for 20 mins and then smacked it with a wood block and a hammer.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:53 am
by danman132x
Thats a good idea with the threadlocker. I'm going to do that, ad i'm also going to try my hardest to put the 4040490 belt on for the AC/PS belt. It squeals when I start the car, and i'm also going to tighten the alt belt a tad.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:28 am
by OB
So you think you feel less vibrations now huh? That's interesting, considering the factory damper was in fact designed with an integrated rubber section for absorbing vibrations. While the aftermarket pulleys are solid and are designed for performance only. Mine sure didn't feel better after install, but there wasn't a big change either.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:38 am
by occasional demons
If his was wobbling, it may have slipped on the elastomeric ring.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:21 am
by danman132x
Yea, my stock one was definetly not "straight" while spinning and had a wobble. For an ebay pulley, this one is great. 36 shipped to my door. I'm going to edit my original post later on too and organize it slightly more.

Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:45 pm
by danman132x
We'll I found out why my alt belt was "squealing". My belt slipped off on the pulley, towards the inside. Lucky it didn't fly off while I was driving, but it did shread one of the ribs off, and starting wearing into my timing belt cover. I used my other belt I had laying around and it fit great too. This time I made it really tight and double checked all my bolts.

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New belt on
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Editing main post some, and I also put some blue threadlocker on my bolts.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:41 am
by Donkeypuncher
I'd stay away from those goodyear belts, I had the exact same thing happen to mine a week after installation. After going through 2 gatorbacks I got a duralast and it lasted for years.

Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:21 am
by Boyscoutgonebad
thanks for the info, should come in handy when i get around to the install, someone should move this to the how to section so it's easier to find.

Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 11:18 am
by onewickedkid05
how do u get the crank to stop turning in a manual car and why did u guys put thread locker on the bolts

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:24 pm
by DaShukSXT23
This looks like the Unorthodox Pulley I just ordered off of Modern Performance. Instructions it came with said heat it up in the oven at 500 degrees for 45 minutes.

I am going to try to install it this weekend so I'm glad there is a how-to thread on it!

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:21 pm
by gilly02le
onewickedkid05 wrote:how do u get the crank to stop turning in a manual car and why did u guys put thread locker on the bolts

put the car in gear to keep the engine from turning while working on it, if its a mtx. Thread locker makes sure your bolts don't loosen. There is a good amount of stress on your belts that can work the pulley bolts free, presenting you with big problems. loc-tite is the most popular brand of thread locker. use it if you are installing a UDP on all of the bolts.

Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:31 am
by Caraudioholic24
hate to resurect this but any "updates" on how the setup went with the belts and all.

Also do we have any other part no's for a different belt other than the gatorback. Maybe a Dayco or something. Ive heard to many bad things about them. lol

Thanks

Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 1:16 am
by Caraudioholic24
BUMP!!!!

Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 3:33 pm
by danman132x
I dont know other brand part numbers, but just go by the length. All of the belt part numbers have the length in them. 4040310 for example is a 31 inch belt. Find the equivalent with a different brand.

Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:02 pm
by Caraudioholic24
Yea I figured that. I just want to know if I should get the 305 or the 310 series. If I have to I will try the smaller one first and go from there.

Thanks