How To: Change manual transmisson fluid

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Post by OB » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:00 pm

I changed my fluid back to ATF+4 last night. I removed the RLS and it looked like a pretty bad place to fill, since there is hardly any clearance for the fluid to pass into the case. You would have to pour very slow in order to prevent it from coming back up and spilling. The factory fill location is much faster. I bought a quart hand-pump that screws onto any quart bottle and allows the fluid to be pumped in from below. Very easy, saved a ton of time over the funnel method. Bought it for $6 at Kragen. The whole job took far less than an hour in my garage, with breaks. First time I did it took twice as long. I guess not having a battery in the way helped a lot though huh? :)

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Post by yellowpatrol » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:02 pm

Meh, I just undid the few bolts on the airbox, twisted it up out of the way, and poured slowly through the RLS hole.
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Post by DonD » Mon Aug 17, 2009 1:19 pm

Finally changed mine at 90,550 miles. No battery removal. The EOM stuff looked a bit brown :) . Thanks for the write-up!

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drivers side wheel

Post by nerox » Tue Dec 29, 2009 11:41 am

taking off the drivers side wheel to get to the rubber plug can be done but i think it is actually more hassle and unless you have small hands its quite tricky to get to


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Post by hybrid-Srt2001 » Tue Dec 29, 2009 4:35 pm

90 degree needle nose pliers work great.
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Post by OB » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:26 pm

I recently swapped to 10w30 motor oil in the trans, and tried the other filling method via the reverse light switch. Worked like a charm. Filled it till it came out the normal fill plug spot, ran it, then checked - level was dead nuts perfect. This is indeed easier, unless you have a hand pump for filling via the normal plug.

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Post by occasional demons » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:58 pm


That's how I did mine. Removing RLS = cheaper than a pump.
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Post by fox02neon » Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:52 am

The first time I attempted this was a huge mess

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