How To: Change manual transmisson fluid
I changed my fluid back to ATF+4 last night. I removed the RLS and it looked like a pretty bad place to fill, since there is hardly any clearance for the fluid to pass into the case. You would have to pour very slow in order to prevent it from coming back up and spilling. The factory fill location is much faster. I bought a quart hand-pump that screws onto any quart bottle and allows the fluid to be pumped in from below. Very easy, saved a ton of time over the funnel method. Bought it for $6 at Kragen. The whole job took far less than an hour in my garage, with breaks. First time I did it took twice as long. I guess not having a battery in the way helped a lot though huh?
-Derek
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Meh, I just undid the few bolts on the airbox, twisted it up out of the way, and poured slowly through the RLS hole.
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Adionik wrote:On a 100% stock SRT engine i've seen detonation on 93 octane, I know what i'm talking about.
drivers side wheel
taking off the drivers side wheel to get to the rubber plug can be done but i think it is actually more hassle and unless you have small hands its quite tricky to get to
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I recently swapped to 10w30 motor oil in the trans, and tried the other filling method via the reverse light switch. Worked like a charm. Filled it till it came out the normal fill plug spot, ran it, then checked - level was dead nuts perfect. This is indeed easier, unless you have a hand pump for filling via the normal plug.
-Derek
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That's how I did mine. Removing RLS = cheaper than a pump.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester