How-To: Adjust clutch pedal height

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DannyBoy
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How-To: Adjust clutch pedal height

Post by DannyBoy » Wed May 12, 2004 5:31 pm

ADJUSTING CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT.


If you look under the dash where the rod attaches to the pedal the end of it is slotted. You can loosten up the 8mm bolt and move the pedal in to lower it.
here is a pic of the end of the rod.

You have to make sure that after your done that the throw is long enough to disengage the clutch completely.
Image

What you do is loosen the bolt shown in the picture.....then slide down the clutch pedal till it requires effort to push it down. ** CAUTION** do not go down too far or you will not be able to shift into gears. Tighten bolt and test, make adjustment as nessary. If you go down too far and the gears will not engage you need to loosen the bolt again and pull the clutch out slightly. Do this until clutch feels short enough for you and the gears engage.

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05srt4clone
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Post by 05srt4clone » Wed Nov 16, 2005 5:04 am

Did that very nice and free mod.
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satrnbmb
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Post by satrnbmb » Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:11 am

My god! I just made this adjustment last night. My knee no longer hits the wheel when coming off the clutch! Thank you for posting this up! It takes 5 minutes to do this guys, I highly recommend everyone do it. Like he says, don't move it down too much, I set mine to just a HAIR above my brake pedal and it works great.
-Chris
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OB
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Post by OB » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:50 pm

Ive thought about making this adjustment, but I have a few concerns. Does this just adjust the pedal's freeplay (i.e. to correct any play that comes with wear and tear over time) or does it infact change the clutches engagement play? What I mean is, does this cause the fork to physically disengage the clutch slightly (which might cause slipping issues if done incorrectly)? If I could move the clutch pedal a hair closer to the brake pedal it would be great, but I dont want to risk adjusting it too much and possibly causing early-wear or slippage. any input is much appreciated. thanks.
-Derek

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Post by racer12306 » Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:16 am

Hmmm, good points there OB.

It would be interesting to know how much of the clutch pedal stroke does nothing.
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satrnbmb
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Post by satrnbmb » Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:45 am

Well, if you move it too close to the floor, you're not going to get the car into gear.

After doing it, I'm noticing 2 things.

1. Mine seems to be creeping back up again for some reason.

2. I need to adjust the "looseness" of the pedal when it's up high. I know I saw a thread on it somewhere on here. Let me search and see if I can find it.
-Chris
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jonnymopar
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Post by jonnymopar » Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:46 pm

The small bolt that you use to adjust is the bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cylinder. Therefore, it does absolutely nothing as far as how your clutch engages. As said before, the only thing it affects is how far the clutch disengages when the pedal is on the floor. Easiest way to check this is have somebody listen to the transmission with the hood open. You'll be able to faintly hear the clutch and the input shaft "whirring" with the clutch out in neutral with the engine idling. If you press the clutch in and that whirring doesn't go away, then it's not disengaging enough. Adjust and retry.

I'm not sure why people are so concerned over this. :? If you take time and actually look at exactly what you're adusting by doing this, it's very easy to see that it doesn't affect the engagement of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch Neon, you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want to your clutch pedal and it won't affect the clutch wear or life. I'd be worried about synchro damage if you don't leave enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
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satrnbmb
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Post by satrnbmb » Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:31 pm

jonnymopar wrote:The small bolt that you use to adjust is the bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch cylinder. Therefore, it does absolutely nothing as far as how your clutch engages. As said before, the only thing it affects is how far the clutch disengages when the pedal is on the floor. Easiest way to check this is have somebody listen to the transmission with the hood open. You'll be able to faintly hear the clutch and the input shaft "whirring" with the clutch out in neutral with the engine idling. If you press the clutch in and that whirring doesn't go away, then it's not disengaging enough. Adjust and retry.

I'm not sure why people are so concerned over this. :? If you take time and actually look at exactly what you're adusting by doing this, it's very easy to see that it doesn't affect the engagement of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch Neon, you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want to your clutch pedal and it won't affect the clutch wear or life. I'd be worried about synchro damage if you don't leave enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
I'm in the process of tweaking my position now. You really don't need to move it much. Just a little tweak down. If you go too far, you won't be able to get it into gear with the car running.
-Chris
'01 black R/T
:Crane 14, minor headwork, few bolt ons, SMT6:

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Post by OB » Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:42 pm

^thats because the clutch isnt fully disengaging when you press it down.
Last edited by OB on Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Derek

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Jerome Adams
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Post by Jerome Adams » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:06 pm

it is tough to get up in there! There is a tiny plastic bushing that broke on mine, so I just safety wired it.

Go here for a funny tale:

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=31255

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Post by dutch animal » Sat Jul 09, 2011 2:00 pm

ok did this mod few hours ago ... THANKS !!!
realy nice and easy mod ... i love the way it feels now !!

i have a boomba short shifter wich is REALLY short, and now i have the clutch to match it.

thumbs up !
thanks for sharing
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Notanexit92
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Post by Notanexit92 » Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:43 am

Does this not apply to 00' neons? I could not find this slot anywhere, just where it attaches to a spring thing and goes through the fire wall.

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:28 pm

Only '01 and up. '00 is a cable clutch set up, and I believe it should self adjust.
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Notanexit92
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Post by Notanexit92 » Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:38 pm

I literally have to put the pedal all the way to floor to shift gears, it's kinda annoying sometimes.

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Post by OB » Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:19 pm

00's were cable, while 01+ was hydraulic, so that would explain the difference if yours doesn't have one. Sounds like you might need a clutch.
-Derek

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Notanexit92
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Post by Notanexit92 » Sat Aug 13, 2011 9:31 am

Well the clutch seems to be okay for now, it grabs just fine, if anything I would think the cable is stretched or something. I remember you saying maybe the release bearing is probably takin a shit. I'll do it all when I get the Cross member replaced.

Do you think it'll be alot easyier to drop the trans without the Cross Member in?

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Post by OB » Sat Aug 13, 2011 7:03 pm

It does hit it a bit coming out so it being out of the way would help, but not really.
-Derek

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fox02neon
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Post by fox02neon » Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:51 am

This always seems easier than it sounds?
foxo2neon

OB
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Post by OB » Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:59 pm

Adjusting the pedal? Easy as it gets!
-Derek

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