How- To: Clutch Slave Cylinder bleeding

OB · Post by OB » Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:57 pm

How- To: Clutch Slave Cylinder bleeding
By OB

This is a very easy and fast procedure. It can be done without raising the front of the vehicle, but it is much easier when done from below. My steps and pictures are based on doing this procedure from underneath the transaxle. Expect to spend 10-30 mins on this procedure.

Note: This procedure is for all T-350 equipped manual tranaxle vehicles ONLY.

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Tools and Equipment:

Ratchet & short extension (3-4")
10mm socket
Brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, whichever you use).

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STEP 1: Pump the clutch pedal 30-50 times, check for a spongy feel. If it feels good, your clutch fluid circuit probably does not need bleeding. Top off the fluid level in your clutch fluid reservoir if needed. If the pedal feels spongy or you're suspicious that air might have made its way into the system, proceed to STEP 2 below.

STEP 2: Raise the front of the vehicle enough for you to get under it and have some space to work. Be sure to secure it on jackstands for safety.

STEP 3: Locate the clutch slave cylinder. It is attached to the transaxle bellhousing via two 10mm screws (see pic below). Remove these and pull the cylinder away from the transaxle while sliding the flange (where the screws go through) towards the ground. The pushrod should come free from its seat and the whole cylinder will be free from the tranaxle. Be sure not to disconnect the fluid line going to the cylinder.

Pic 1: Slave Cylinder

Note: DO NOT pump the clutch pedal after the slave cylinder has been disconnected from the transaxle. This could cause damage to the pushrod and cylinder internals.

STEP 4: Allow the slave cylinder to hang at the lowest possible position without putting stress on the fluid line (see pic below). Proceed to pump the pushrod all the way into the cylinder bore and back out 10 times. Be careful not to break the T-shaped tab at the end of the pushrod. Once the bleeding is complete, reinstall the pushrod into its seat and snap the slave cylinder body back into place. Be careful not to bend or damage the fluid line or pushrod during reinstallation. Reinstall and tighten down the fasteners.

Pic 2: Slave cylinder; pushrod.

STEP 5: Top off the fluid reservoir if needed. Proceed to re-pump the clutch pedal 30-50 more times, or until you feel that it is operating correctly. If it still feels spongy, you may have an internal issue with the master cylinder or the slave cylinder itself. The OEM recommends replacement of BOTH units to correct this issue. I would suggest trying to re-bleed the slave cylinder circuit once more before condemning any components.

That's it, you're done. Lower the vehicle and take it out for a test drive. All questions and comments are welcome, thanks for looking.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:10 am

THANK you for posting this !!

There's been a need for this, I've seen people posting asking how to do this.... As far as I know, this is the first writeup I've seen on bleeding the slave cylinder.

- Nick

ThrIsNoSpork · Post by **ThrIsNoSpork** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:51 am

Man you really do just get bored a lot dont you? lol.

OB · Post by OB » Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:33 pm

^Leave me alone! lol im telling you dude. This car is so overmaintained its stupid. I did this right after I pulled my suspension. Was waiting for my appt at UPS to get my Teins so I figured i'd bust out another quick How- To. haha

Bluerocketsneeks · Post by **Bluerocketsneeks** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:18 pm

I did this and the plastic thing broke off while trying to bleed it... so i had to replace it and then when we tried bleeding it second time the screw stripped

but we did not follow this meathod... we just bleed it a little pumped the clutch... bleed it some more pump the clutch to it seemed like all the air was out

so i'm hoping we can repair the screw and the clutch is good

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 4:05 pm

bump for a missing pic

let me see if i got this right.

first pump, then pull the mounting bolts out, disconect line... connect line pump some more, disconect line?.... something like that?

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jun 25, 2009 5:10 pm

No pics missing.

Pump, remove slave, pump slave by hand, install slave, be done.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:05 pm

woot woot! thanks D, the second pic wasn't showing earlier. so then there is no nead to disconect the line? pumping by hand will remove the air?

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:02 pm

No problem homes. Yeah according to the FSM the system will purge air on its own without being cracked open. Strange, but that's what it says.

nerox · Post by **nerox** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:50 am

what is the easiest way to change the fluid in the slave? i need to do this and then bleed it.

OB · Post by OB » Sun Mar 07, 2010 2:06 pm

You'll have to crack the line or siphon the fluid out through the reservoir. Once it's full of new fluid, bleed it a few times and you should be good. The FSM doesn't show anything on swapping fluid, or I would post it up.

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:52 pm

you COULD open the slave up, remove the rod, and let the old fluid flow out that way.............but do that at your own risk.....no guarentee itll work.

non-magnum · Post by **non-magnum** » Fri May 28, 2010 8:25 pm

I was woundering, Thanks

andrewh530 · Post by **andrewh530** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:55 am

hey derek, when i come to put the new struts in would you mind taking a look at my clutch feel? it just seems that i have to move the pedal hella to get anything out of it, but the clutch doesn't slip....

OB · Post by OB » Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:21 pm

Sure dude, no prob. The stock clutches have a pretty crappy feel from a performance standpoint, so it's probably just normal

andrewh530 · Post by **andrewh530** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:37 pm

so in other words i should just get a new stage 2 centerforce....lol

Ramiro726 · Post by **Ramiro726** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:32 am

hey guys,

I am having a problem with the clutch master and slave cylinders on my chrysler pt cruiser 2.0.

from what i understand its very similar to the neons clutch cylinders.

my clutch cylinders keep {busting poping or collapsing}
i have a stage 3 copper clutch.

is there an aftermarket alternative as i have been through 4 factory sets this year.

Any assistance is Appreciated.

Thanks
Ramiro { from South Afirca}

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:12 am

http://www.aspturbo.com

I believe Eric sells an upgrade for the hydraulic clutch system.

Altho I don't see it on his Web site you can contact him on here viewtopic.php?t=32679, or sales@aspturbo.com

Ramiro726 · Post by **Ramiro726** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:49 am

thanks dude.

will try to see what i can get!

Neon4Life · Post by **Neon4Life** » Mon May 30, 2011 7:15 pm

Bump.. is this the same procedure for the srt4 one.

LMK someone.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Mon May 30, 2011 7:26 pm

Neon4Life wrote:Bump.. is this the same procedure for the srt4 one.

LMK someone.

I don't see why it would be different.
I'm sure someone will confirm.

Free bump.

- Nick

Guard1an · Post by **Guard1an** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 6:13 pm

anyone have pics of the after market setup that replaces the plastic junk ?? what about using a different vehicles cast aluminium set up ?? Tomorrow heading to the bone yard to investigate !!!!!

-Mike

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 5:39 pm

Guard1an wrote:anyone have pics of the after market setup that replaces the plastic junk ?? what about using a different vehicles cast aluminium set up ?? Tomorrow heading to the bone yard to investigate !!!!!

-Mike

I believe that 'esteinmaier' has already posted a how-to, on using the slave cylinder from a Mistu Eclipse.
I thought he was also offering a kit at one time.
I would try contacting him for more details.

viewtopic.php?t=44267

esteinmaier wrote:Yes, ASP is now selling individual parts in addition to full turbo kits. We carry the full lineup of the Bullseye Power S series Borg Warner turbos, as well as their "old school" turbos, such as the T04e and T04b, in configurations such as the 60-1, the "50 trim", and others. We now sell them for reduced prices, and you won't find them anywhere cheaper. If you want something not listed, just ask. We carry the full lineup, but the prices listed just reflect some of the more popular turbos.

Our new website, still undergoing construction, can be found at http://www.aspturbo.com

We don't have an online shopping cart set up yet, and probably won't for a while. But PM me on here, or email sales @ aspturbo . com.

ASP Hydraulic Clutch Actuation Upgrade Kit $299.99

ASP Hydraulic Clutch Actuation Upgrade Kit with Clutch Release Valve $499.99

UPDATE:
Never mind, I found it:

http://aspturbo.com/store/product_info. ... ucts_id=98

- Nick

Guard1an · Post by **Guard1an** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:17 pm

yea nick i found the site no pics, sent them an email hope to hear back from them soon, i will check with esteinmaier and see whats up

-Mike

chris1211 · Post by **chris1211** » Fri May 25, 2012 6:46 pm

so i got aa new slave cylinder and installed it and now i have no pressure in my clutch at all the new 1 has a bleeder i tried it that way and taken the slave out ppumping by hand and still nothing help!!!

itzthatvietguy · Post by **itzthatvietguy** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:34 am

Anyway to bypass this large metal barrier, and does the rod slide in easily? mine is so stiff and have no other way to remove it...

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:23 pm

its going to be stiff to compress, thats normal, if you cant work around that bracket just remove it, it wont hurt anything to remove it temporarily while you bleed the line

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 2:17 pm

r/tguy02 wrote:its going to be stiff to compress, thats normal, if you cant work around that bracket just remove it, it wont hurt anything to remove it temporarily while you bleed the line

That's what I would do..... Just remove it, and re-install it when you are done.

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:39 pm

That is a support bracket for the IM. There is also another bracket on the other end. You may want to clean it up and put a fresh coat of paint on it at least, while it is out.

On the Magnum IM, it is a different bracket, and it is not recommended to leave it off. There have been a few cases of the aluminum cracking at the flange.

I don't have either bracket on mine, but then there are no longer any mounting points on my IM.

But then 1gn plastic runners are a little more flexible than 2gn plastic runners.

itzthatvietguy · Post by **itzthatvietguy** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:13 pm

Oh, well I was able to push the pin the the max in and got it out and man my arm still sore from the work. Plus I follow this youtube video from perfection clutch where it show me how to bleed it and understanding the concept easier, and no clutch pumping require much, since it's an external slave that our neon uses.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pZHTeLS4ik