Tools needed:
Long shank Philip’s head screwdriver (4 screws in console box)
Medium length shank Philip’s head screwdriver (2 screws in cup holders)
Hammer (for seating spring clips)
Slip jaw pliers, large
3/8” socket driver
13mm socket, 3/8" drive
12” extension, 3/8” drive (for the 2 rear nuts between the seats; optional)
Please take your time in doing this. And PLEASE be careful. These shifter frames have many sharp edges from the stamping process. If you have a pair of mechanics’ gloves, wear them.
1) On the center console, remove the 6 screws; one in each forward cup holder and 4 in the box. Note that they are 2 different lengths; keep them separated.
2) Remove the shift knob by pushing down, and turning. The spring will pop it up when you are over the molded in reliefs.
3) With the e-brake all the way up, lift the rear of the console until it clears the seats; slide the boot up and over the shift rod. At the same angle (rear of console nearly touching the ceiling), lift the console up and away from the lower dash area, making sure to clear the shift rod and e-brake handle. Remove the shifter boot; it will be in the way when the console is reinstalled. There is a tab underneath, on the bottom of the plastic boot frame. Push towards the front, and then up on the tab, then lift the boot out. Set boot and console in back seat or out of the car.
4) Using some adjustable slip jaw pliers (big ones) and the shift cables for leverage, grab the bent tabbed edge of the cable clips (located at the juncture of the cables and the shifter frame) and pry them towards the outside. This is the most difficult part of the removal. It may take a few minutes to finally remove them. You may lose skin from your knuckles. You may bleed and cuss. Children will run away in fear. This is normal.
5) Once the clips are off, remove the cable ends from the bottom of the gate arm and the shift rod. The bushings should pop right off with minimal effort; you can use a large flat-bladed screw driver for this. A little WD40 helps, too, for any that may be stubborn. If you have Booger Bushings, you’re on your own, as they may be very difficult to remove. Be very patient with them, as it is very easy to break a cable end.
6) Using a 13mm socket, remove the 4 nuts at each corner of the shifter frame. Lift the frame up, and just a little back towards the rear. Slide the cable out to the side of the frame. They can also be slid out the front of the shifter frame by lining them up with the holes that they pass through. It may take a bit of wriggling them around to get them out.
7) Once the cables are out, you can remove the shifter assembly.
Installation of the STS is the reverse of removal. *Tip - when reinstalling the cable clips, position them first; then strike sharply with a small hammer to seat them.
