how-to: remove cv-axles

Gnuserup · Post by **Gnuserup** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:32 pm

First remove the tires, then splint and nut

passengerside axle

detach the axles from the wheel hub

detach nut from the balljoint and remove the screw

Now push the lower control arm as much as needed to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle

and put the end of the axle off. Try not to destroy the cuffs.

On the passengers side there is enough room to move the inner knuckle (use hand gear or try with hammer and bolt - you´ll find slots near the sleeves on both sides)

a lot tighter on drivers side...

for comparison - passengers side axles with ABS-Ring out of a manual and without ABS-Ring out of a 4-gear-ATX

lever removed

remove axle bearing with hammer and bolt

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:33 pm

Now push the lower control arm as much as needed to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle

Tip:
Removing the sway bar end links on each end, and pivoting it downward will make getting the ball joint stud out a lot easier. You will not be fighting the sway bar to get it apart, and it will make re-install soooo much easier.

OB · Post by OB » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:47 pm

Good pics and info, but this is just how to remove the CV axles... transaxle = transmission.

Also note, it's not necessary to disconnect the ball joints, just the strut clevis, tie rod ends, and of course the brakes. The knuckle pivots quite a bit on the joint, just enough to squeeze both of them out.

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:47 pm

I did mine with just unbolting the strut and pivoting the hub out of the way

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:18 pm

Yet another great write-up / how to from 'Gnuserup'.

- Nick

Gnuserup · Post by **Gnuserup** » Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:03 am

Thank you

freelancer1988 · Post by **freelancer1988** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:55 am

I bought a new/rebuilt driver side cv axle and it does not have the rubber thing. (or whatever it is made out of) It is in the middle of the old CV axle and was wondering if I need that on the new one? I doubt I do, but figured I would double check. I included a picture I stole and edited from above if you have no idea what I mean.

Also, when you are referring to removing the axle bearing... are you meaning something on the axle that needs to be moved over? I guess I just need to tackle the job so I can find out what it is.

illriginalized · Post by **illriginalized** » Sun Nov 25, 2012 3:45 am

If replacing the wheel bearings is it a good idea to also get the axles replaced too? Looks like that would be a good idea being that just to replace the wheel bearings you have to remove just about the whole assembly excluding the axle.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:04 am

illriginalized wrote:If replacing the wheel bearings is it a good idea to also get the axles replaced too? Looks like that would be a good idea being that just to replace the wheel bearings you have to remove just about the whole assembly excluding the axle.

Most folks wouldn't replace the axles 'just because'.
Besides - "If it ain't broke....Don't fix it."

There are plenty of Neons that have high mileage on original axles.
When I parted out my '95 SOHC ATX Neon, it had 189,000+ miles on it, and the axles were fine.
The 1999 DOHC ATX Neon that I have now, has 205,000+ miles on it, and as far as I know, the previous owner never replaced the axles.

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:52 am

~196,000 on my MTX axles, and still "Knock on wood" in good shape.

fox02neon · Post by **fox02neon** » Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:50 am

When I first did this I did it all backwards. Good post