How to: change control arm bushings
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Chris04sxt
- 2009 Silver Contributor
- Posts: 407
- Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:15 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I know this is a few weeks late but, rockauto.com has Moog LCA with ball joint for $75 each. There are also some made by Dorman for $36 each.
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MoxHair wrote:I'll leg hump you dude..
and then when I'm done you can leg hump me.
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BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12737
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
Are they complete control arms for $75 each?Chris04sxt wrote:I know this is a few weeks late but, rockauto.com has Moog LCA with ball joint for $75 each. There are also some made by Dorman for $36 each.
Techs have figured out tricks to get the bushing swapped out in about a half an hr per side without removing the whole control arm......
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Chris04sxt
- 2009 Silver Contributor
- Posts: 407
- Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:15 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
They look to be complete. I'll know for sure in a few weeks since I'm getting ready to replace mine.BlackRoseRacing wrote:Are they complete control arms for $75 each?Chris04sxt wrote:I know this is a few weeks late but, rockauto.com has Moog LCA with ball joint for $75 each. There are also some made by Dorman for $36 each.
Techs have figured out tricks to get the bushing swapped out in about a half an hr per side without removing the whole control arm......
2GN Feedback
MoxHair wrote:I'll leg hump you dude..
and then when I'm done you can leg hump me.
UPDATE and a few more details -
get something to derust the control arms.
The two screws on the rear are really long and heavy, I took a really long ratchet (50cm) and the M24 nut.
For preventing the axle to flip of the sleeve at the trany - what I did on my SXT unwanted before, I´m using some wire to fix the strut a bit and lift the knuckle some centimeters (beware, the jack could slip away this way).
Take very careful attention to the balljoints sleeve to not destroy it while levering the control arm.
I took a simple bench vise to depress the bushing
And a sledgehammer for the bigger.
A cutter was enough for the rubber to remove.
PU-bushings this way. You only need the bigger metall-inner from the bigger bushings.
****
oh - btw if I haven´t mentioned it before - the complete arms I used sometime before were crap,
they were possibly too cheap and the ball-joint bushings were looking that bad after some months
Same thing on the less cheap OEM-arms.
The other big bushings were looking worn as well on the cheap china arms, but not at the dearer pair.
I would suggest: always try PU-bushings, don´t try OEM-arms
get something to derust the control arms.
The two screws on the rear are really long and heavy, I took a really long ratchet (50cm) and the M24 nut.
For preventing the axle to flip of the sleeve at the trany - what I did on my SXT unwanted before, I´m using some wire to fix the strut a bit and lift the knuckle some centimeters (beware, the jack could slip away this way).
Take very careful attention to the balljoints sleeve to not destroy it while levering the control arm.
I took a simple bench vise to depress the bushing
And a sledgehammer for the bigger.
A cutter was enough for the rubber to remove.
PU-bushings this way. You only need the bigger metall-inner from the bigger bushings.
****
oh - btw if I haven´t mentioned it before - the complete arms I used sometime before were crap,
they were possibly too cheap and the ball-joint bushings were looking that bad after some months
Same thing on the less cheap OEM-arms.
The other big bushings were looking worn as well on the cheap china arms, but not at the dearer pair.
I would suggest: always try PU-bushings, don´t try OEM-arms
