How To: Motor Mounts

Ballsdeep1 · Post by **Ballsdeep1** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 1:47 pm

Motor mounts, one of my favorite mods to the SRT-4. Here's a quick little write up of the Boomba's, though they are rather self explanatory.

The passenger side is the easier side to do, so we will start there. Jack up the passenger side of the car and support it with a jack stand. The upper motor mount is just held in with two bolts. Remove those.

Remove the piece on the engine that the motor mount bolts in to, Boomba supplies a new piece that fits with their mount.

Here's a comparison of the two pieces

Install the new piece that Boomba supplies and bolt it down.

Make sure the mount is positioned properly and hand tighten the bolts. once everything is in place, tighten them completely.

That is it for the top

For the bottom you need to remove the lower plastic trim panel. This is held on by 3 10mm bolts and 2 push in retainers.

You can see one of the clips on the left and one of the bolts on the right, the other bolt would be farther to the right

Once the cover is removed you can access the mount

Now remove the large bolt from the front of the torque arm. Remove the lower nut from the bracket that is attached to the rear bolt of the torque arm and loosen the upper nut so that you can move this bracket out of the way

Remove the rear bolt of the torque arm and take it out. Installation of the mount is pretty much reverse of this process. You may need to jack up the engine a tiny bit to get everything to line up properly.

The driver's side is a bit more work. Jack up the driver's side and put it on a jack stand. Start by removing the airbox http://forums.srtdistrict.com/showthread.php?t=253
And removing the battery. There is a 13mm bolt behind the battery that you can loosen and lift the battery out.

Next remove the battery tray, there should be 4 bolts holding it on, two on the back side, and two on the right side.

that give access to the mount and the bracket.

Support the transmission with the jack, you will need to raise and lower it for the install. It's rather quick to remove the 4 bolts to the bracket, which makes it easy to replace the mount. Remove the main bolt of the mount. Inside the wheel well you will see a little cap. Pop off the cap and you can access the bolt.

There is access through the bracket to the bolts if you raise and lower the engine a bit for clearance.

Now the braket comes out

You should be able to lower the engine enough to access the 3 motor mount bolts from inside the wheel well. Un-bolt it and replace it with the new mount. Installation is just the reverse steps.

scneonchic · Post by **scneonchic** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:17 pm

Those are really nice.

spencersummerfield · Post by **spencersummerfield** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:25 am

i wonder if they make those for 2000 Neon???

scneonchic · Post by **scneonchic** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:34 am

The will fit, just not the transmission mount.

I have the PSI-FI solid mounts on my blue neon, but the transmission mount wont fit, even if it was an MTX.

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:00 am

On the Bwoody and AGP mounts you have to remove this pin for anyone thinking of using those mounts.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:10 pm

Do these make the car vibrate like hell...say like solid motor mounts?

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:02 pm

Not like hell but yes you get more vibration. These are basically solid mounts. Its something you have to deal with if you want no wheel hop

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:05 am

what is that pin used for ?? Would the 2 upper and lower torque arms be worth replacing and not the trans mount or could it do any harm to the tranny mount by having 2 hard mounts and still a stock one? Are there inserts for the tranny mount? Im sick of that feeling when u let the clutch out in first slowly from a roll and i can still feel the whole dam engine twist a bit

Ballsdeep1 · Post by **Ballsdeep1** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:25 am

A lot of times, the upper and lower inserts are more than enough for people, you might try that out first. It does halp the feel of the car in respect to clutch actuation in even normal driving. There isn't that lag time of the engine moving around.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:34 am

sounds like its time for me to start saving for boomba's hopefully its worth it for 240 is it worth it to buy the 12.9 grade bolts in my case where i dont have alot of power or should i just stick with stockers?

Ballsdeep1 · Post by **Ballsdeep1** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:00 pm

I'm sure stock would be just fine.

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:08 pm

I personally have the energy suspension inserts in both my top and bottom motor mounts. Its enough for me. $20 through my local shop.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 2:33 pm

I have been reading and i saw that the srt-4 lower torque strut has a bigger hole on the engine side to use a bigger bolt for the srt thats means boomba's mounts wont bolt directly up to the regular 2gn's or at least not bolt up properly..?

anomalous0 · Post by **anomalous0** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:07 pm

you could always fill the stockers with JBweld like I did

You get alot more vibration, but the remaining rubber in the mounts does dampen it a little. Oh, and they're almost completely solid and eliminate wheel hop.
That is if you don't care about looks. If you care about looks....got with the boombas

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:17 pm

So nobody knows how to get that pin out or what its even used for??

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:56 am

I have the solid race motor mounts and my car shakes a LOT. Especially when i have the AC on and i'm reversing. Now while I could have probably worked a little harder on proper alignment when I installed them, is it normal to get a LOT of vibration? Because the passenger side of my car shakes a lot.

My car does shift a lot smoother though. Stops feels nice and clean and the ride is completely fine when i'm driving or in neutral. (It's not that shakey in neutral as opposed to drive with the brake)

flamingpinhead · Post by **flamingpinhead** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:52 am

Very nice writeup!!!

getcrunk88 wrote:So nobody knows how to get that pin out or what its even used for??

im wondering this one myself.

03sxt · Post by **03sxt** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:03 am

Is that the oil pan you used for a jack point?

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:50 pm

03sxt wrote:Is that the oil pan you used for a jack point?

structural oil pan

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:29 am

that jack is just to keep the motor from sagging, while the lower mount is off. as it would be a PITA if the motor dropped down and out of alignment...there really isn't any load on the oil pan, so its all good! just don't think you can jack your car by that, BC thats not what hes doing!

flamingpinhead · Post by **flamingpinhead** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 6:09 pm

^ahh, jack it up by the oil pan if you want... personall i wouldnt

i saw that as well but then realized the above stated. it wasnt holing the weight of the car or even the whole motor for that matter, just holding it in place.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:21 am

i cant believe that not 1 person knows what that pin is used for???

anomalous0 · Post by **anomalous0** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 6:15 pm

nothing wrong with putting a jack under the oil pan......if you use a phone book or block of wood to distribute the load, and are only lifting the engine and not the whole car. Comes in really handy when doing something like a cam swap or timing belt change, where it's nice to move the engine up and down relative to the car. Otherwise....nuh uh.

latief · Post by **latief** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:00 am

getcrunk88 wrote:i cant believe that not 1 person knows what that pin is used for???

The pin is to prevent the engine mount from rotating at the location where it bolts to the engine - due to torque i mean. this way, the rotation will only take place inside the mount itself where it is supposed to....

i wish i could explain it better, if you look at your car you will figure it out......

all the mounts in the neon have this pin in one way or another...(its not really a pin, it is a thin piece of metal sticking out)

also, the lower torque mount is different in bolt size on an SRT as you described, so these should not work on a neon...at least IMHO....

i have changed all the mounts on my 2000, even the load bearing one in the passenger side frame, what a nasty job that was .....

ballsdeep, did you measure the distance between the mounting points of the upper torque mount after the change? it might have moved out of spec a bit although you supported the engine.....

nice car ....

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:07 pm

I saw a thing in the haynes manual saying to adjust the torque strut after install but i dont understand how that would work considering it could only go on the way it came off..? i mean its not like you could adjust how long the mount is

latief · Post by **latief** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:53 pm

the engine is on a certain angle determined by the exact distance between the bolt that goes through the top engine mount on the engine side, and the the bolt that goes through the frame side. once you take out the mounts you will realize that wherever a bolt goes through the frame of the car, the hole is usually over sized to compensate for manufacturing differences. also, the upper mount is held in place by bolts that go through large amounts of rubber so the angle it sits in-place at is very important. if you don't align the mounts correctly every time you mess with them, they will install fine, but most likely you will be loading them more or less than you should be this will lead to: engine not sitting correctly , more pressure on axles , more vibration and more mount wear and tear, and a finally the car driving experience will deteriorate especially if a 5 speed..

i am a newbie in car repair, but i learned a lot from 1-mistakes, 2- trying 3- reading. the factory service manual (on ebay) is worth its weight in gold ....get one !!!!

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:40 am

hmmmm thanks for the info latief im definatley going to try my best to get it aligned correctly hopefully on thurs my inserts come in i cant wait

kevo · Post by **kevo** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 5:49 am

getcrunk88 wrote:hmmmm thanks for the info latief im definatley going to try my best to get it aligned correctly hopefully on thurs my inserts come in i cant wait

if you are getting inserts, dont bother removing the bolts that atttach the torque struts to the frame of the car. Simply use a jack to raise the engine just enough so that there is no forward pressure put on the torque struts. then simply remove the bolts that hold the struts to the engine. Then simply shove the insert into the strut area and put the bolt back in. This way you dont need to do the engine realignment procedures.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:38 pm

kevo wrote:
getcrunk88 wrote:hmmmm thanks for the info latief im definatley going to try my best to get it aligned correctly hopefully on thurs my inserts come in i cant wait
if you are getting inserts, dont bother removing the bolts that atttach the torque struts to the frame of the car. Simply use a jack to raise the engine just enough so that there is no forward pressure put on the torque struts. then simply remove the bolts that hold the struts to the engine. Then simply shove the insert into the strut area and put the bolt back in. This way you dont need to do the engine realignment procedures.

Getting the inserts in there is hardly as easy as just shoving them in there. I agree that you really should try your hardest to avoid messing with the alignment, but those things don't budge.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:03 pm

remove the bolt, throw some grease on the insert. and push it in, Tap the rest of the way with a rubber mallet.. thats how i did my lower one, easy as crap... now i just need to get the trans mount..