How-To: Filled firm mounts for ~$5! NO JOKE (DIY)

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

How-To: Filled firm mounts for ~$5! NO JOKE (DIY)

Post by nodestiny » Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:31 pm

Hey guys!

Last night, had the old motor mount to my wifes 1st gen out, and decided to give the Hot Glue fill a try (was an extra mount, why not?). Tin foil circle (to make sure duct tape didnt get too damaged from heat of clue) then duct tape on one end of the mount. Did a few differant ways to try to find the best way to put them in. First, put 8 sticks in a tinfoil bowl (hand made Very Happy ) and tried boiling that in a pot of water. Was slow and steam burned me to crap. Next, tried taking that tinfoil bowl and put it in the stove. Success! Melted. But trying to get the glue off wasnt as easy as planned. Only about 1/2 came off and most sticked to the foil Sad

Third, i cut the sticks up and shoved them in the mount and through the mount in the oven at around 250* for 15 minutes. Worked a bit, but not fully melted. DOH!

Finaly, pulled out the ol hot glue gun. Filled it with that (took a lot of time, but worked). In the end, though it in the freezer to dry the last of it.

After dryed and back to room temps, the mount felt VERY solid. Suprisingly. Before, i could grab the actual metal mount inside the rubber itself and move it freely with little effort. Now i cant move it at all by hand (with excessive force, too!)

Threw the mount on this morning. Before, letting of the gas felt like you like clicked on the hydros (maybe not THAT bad, but was definatly jerky). Now, you let off and it does what it should. No more bounce. The vibration really isnt as bad as i thought, either. When killing the motor on the 400 and down RPMs you hear a few rattles, but really... when shutting of the car, does it matter?

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for those who want a cheap and QUICK way to fill your mounts. All supplies can be had at any (name)-Mart.

Have an extra mount and some 80a (Deyem FIRM mount equiviliant) and will give it a try and compare by next month.
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

User avatar
03sxt
Former Jr. Admin
Posts: 11389
Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 10:53 am
Location: Conneaut, Ohio
Contact:

Post by 03sxt » Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:33 pm

:thumbup:
Awesome! I'll keep that in mind!

User avatar
BlackRoseRacing
2009 Platinum Contributor
Posts: 12729
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am

Post by BlackRoseRacing » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:45 pm

good info, I was trying to fill my mounts with the famous black mopar RTV, but never had time to let it thorughly dry, I never thought about the hotglue in a million years...good idea!
Last edited by BlackRoseRacing on Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

scneonchic
2GN Veteran
Posts: 8884
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 12:44 am
Location: Aiken, SC

Post by scneonchic » Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:38 pm

I have extra mounts for sale if anyone wants to try this ;) :lol:

User avatar
eVilcreations
Former Jr. Admin
Posts: 2411
Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2004 6:52 pm
Location: the flatlands, KS
Contact:

Post by eVilcreations » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:49 pm

Before trying this for yourself....I would HIGHLY recommend that nodestiny be allowed some time to test the durability of this method. I guess the worst that could happen is that the glue break apart and fall out, and then you would just have a stock motor mount again......but time will tell.


Josh
Image

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

Post by nodestiny » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:07 am

EvilCreations wrote:Before trying this for yourself....I would HIGHLY recommend that nodestiny be allowed some time to test the durability of this method. I guess the worst that could happen is that the glue break apart and fall out, and then you would just have a stock motor mount again......but time will tell.
Josh
Yes this is true. It is possible it could break. BUT the way i look at it... how often does a glue stick break? Even if you work it a bit with vibratration and some force? Could happen, but i have a feeling it will work good.

Also, some others on the .org have done this before with no problems to date (might have to search around there to see how long they have had it now)

The motor mount that was filled was already torn, so really it is no loss to me if anything bad does happen.
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

Drvr02RT
2GN Member
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 11:48 pm
Location: Warren, MI

Post by Drvr02RT » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:44 am

I actually used the hotglue on my 1st gen and it only lasted about 6-8 weeks before it started to break apart into chunks. Made a real mess too.
'02 Silver R/T
'04 SRT Swap
Stage 2 WGA
----18psi----
AGP Dogbones
Boogers
Mopar Lowering Springs
Hotchkis Sway Bars
Koni's

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

Post by nodestiny » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:50 am

Drvr02RT wrote:I actually used the hotglue on my 1st gen and it only lasted about 6-8 weeks before it started to break apart into chunks. Made a real mess too.
What glue did you use? There are differant grades of hot glue.
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

User avatar
grambo
Former Moderator
Posts: 3650
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2005 9:17 pm
Location: Tracy, NOR-CAL

Post by grambo » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:05 pm

nodestiny is correct in that there are many different grades of hot-glue available. Buy the best for the application. (Check Grainger or McMaster-Carr Catalogs) The art&crafts junk gets brittle when it dries and breaks apart.
01' Neon ACR - SOLD - Its Alive!Thx Sean!
06' Subaru WRX STI - OTS Stage II
07 - Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee #0267
01' Dodge Ram 5.7 - The Mall Crawler

User avatar
LaidNeon
2GN Member
Posts: 3080
Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 2:13 am
Location: Pasadena, Tx
Contact:

Post by LaidNeon » Fri Jan 06, 2006 1:37 am

I used good old JB weld on mine
- Dan

Drvr02RT
2GN Member
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 11:48 pm
Location: Warren, MI

Post by Drvr02RT » Fri Jan 06, 2006 2:43 am

Just some cheap-o glue from Walmart. :lol:
'02 Silver R/T
'04 SRT Swap
Stage 2 WGA
----18psi----
AGP Dogbones
Boogers
Mopar Lowering Springs
Hotchkis Sway Bars
Koni's

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

Post by nodestiny » Wed Jan 18, 2006 4:40 pm

Just an update:

The front mount has been fine thus far. Been checkin it here and there.

Pulled the side mount on her car (passanger side) and it was COMPLETELY torn to the point where the metal core actualy fell out when i pulled it! I got some multi-temp and high temp glue from wal-mart (in the LONG sticks). The multi-temp seemed to be stiffer (more white sticks) than the high-temp (more clear) (NOTE: Could have that backwards, will check later). I filled the side mount with the clearer, more flexible one as i didnt want to put a lot of vibration in the car with too solid of a side (besdies, the sides mounts dont do a lot for engine movement!). I put a layer on both the torn rubber parts and pushed it on there real fast before it dried. Than, took my time and filled the mount (no tape this time, just held and filled).

Once i got it done, i let the glue on the outside dry a bit, then ran it under cold water (you could feel the heat of the glue in the core!). After that, installed!

Car felt a lot better, less floppy engine. And its actualy mounted now VS just laying there! :D

Ill keep an eye on this as well. Keep everybody updated. Took 3 sticks all together to fill that mount. Figure, $4 a pack, 20 sticks per pack (I think). Even if the inserts cracked every 3 months, these sticks should last at least a year for $4 a pack!! :D
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

blowneon
2GN Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:34 pm

home made engine mount.

Post by blowneon » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:17 am

i used solid dog bone mounts for the engine side, and removed the trans mount, cut small strips of a poly-plastic cutting board from wal-mart, dipped them in tire patch cement, and hammered into the mount openings, used silicone to fill in any cracks, and painted black. solid as hell for less then $2.50.

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

Post by nodestiny » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:23 am

:D Yeah, i love all these "ghetto" motor mount fill ideas! :D Keep em commin!
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

scneonchic
2GN Veteran
Posts: 8884
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 12:44 am
Location: Aiken, SC

Post by scneonchic » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:39 am

nodestiny wrote: Ill keep an eye on this as well. Keep everybody updated. Took 3 sticks all together to fill that mount. Figure, $4 a pack, 20 sticks per pack (I think). Even if the inserts cracked every 3 months, these sticks should last at least a year for $4 a pack!! :D
are you sure you want to redo that like 4x a year when you could even just get inserts for like $40 and never have to redo them? seems like a bit of a hassle to me just to save a few bucks, when your using alot of time having to redo them

User avatar
kc2005ptgt
Former Moderator
Posts: 6587
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:39 pm
Location: Kansas City, MO
Contact:

Post by kc2005ptgt » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:46 am

HelllloooOooo?! Ghetto?! J/k - I thought about other methods of filling them, but in the end I just went with the race mounts from modern perf. Keep up the goods ideas!
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777

Image

nodestiny
2GN Member
Posts: 631
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 9:00 pm
Contact:

Post by nodestiny » Fri Jan 20, 2006 5:16 pm

scneonchic501 wrote:
nodestiny wrote: Ill keep an eye on this as well. Keep everybody updated. Took 3 sticks all together to fill that mount. Figure, $4 a pack, 20 sticks per pack (I think). Even if the inserts cracked every 3 months, these sticks should last at least a year for $4 a pack!! :D
are you sure you want to redo that like 4x a year when you could even just get inserts for like $40 and never have to redo them? seems like a bit of a hassle to me just to save a few bucks, when your using alot of time having to redo them
That is, IF they fell out or whatever after 3 months. I have heard of people doing this method and having it for a long time with no problems (depends on glue im guessing).
NoDestiny: 2004 SXT Silver MTx: CAI, Mag Intake, Mag header, Custom made mufflers, Grounding kit, Mopar STS, boogers, Eibach springs, Rear SRT4 struts, 29mm + 24mm hotchkis sways, MPx UPD, Street Prothane MM, P-werks rear strut tower bar, Lots of fun goodies inside, see WWW

lilwad3
n00b
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:28 am
Location: South Dakota

Post by lilwad3 » Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:37 pm

i like the mopar rtv idea LOL, that rtv sealant, is some durable stuff period its one of the few RTV's that will actually turn into a brick and harder to heck to crack, inside the tube NEVER opened LOL. but ya im sure drying would be a big issue, maybe a few days? to full harden
Image

anomalous0
2GN Member
Posts: 457
Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:23 pm
Location: Arizona

Post by anomalous0 » Sat Nov 25, 2006 1:59 am

The hi-temp hot glue only lasted me a week in the arizona summer before all of it melted clean out. So now I'm using JBweld (am finally doing my tranny mount after 2 months) and I love it on the engine mounts at least. Yes, there's vibration, but mostly when the a/c is on or the car hasn't warmed up yet.
"If you haven't bled on it, it's not your car"

User avatar
BlackRoseRacing
2009 Platinum Contributor
Posts: 12729
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am

Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Nov 25, 2006 5:52 am

lilwad3 wrote:i like the mopar rtv idea LOL, that rtv sealant, is some durable stuff period its one of the few RTV's that will actually turn into a brick and harder to heck to crack, inside the tube NEVER opened LOL. but ya im sure drying would be a big issue, maybe a few days? to full harden
I tried the mopar rtv with no luck, im considering trying the JB weld myself since I have 5 mounts sitting here to try it on...

SinfulNeon
2GN Member
Posts: 254
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:21 am
Location: Redding, Ca
Contact:

Post by SinfulNeon » Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:00 am

so Im new at this stuff could someone explain to me how the motor mounts and making them solid would aid the engine and by what factors does it help in as well as maybe some figures, if any of you have a link to a faq or this has already been answered then just direct me to that, and thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
Image
::WTB:: Dual or Tri-pod A-Pillar (black) : Passenger A-Pillar (Black) : AGP Dog Bone Motor Mounts : 1st Gen ACR Springs : Shorty Attn. :

User avatar
Marthby
2GN Member
Posts: 482
Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:24 am
Location: NorCal

Post by Marthby » Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:59 am

SinfulNeon wrote:so Im new at this stuff could someone explain to me how the motor mounts and making them solid would aid the engine and by what factors does it help in as well as maybe some figures, if any of you have a link to a faq or this has already been answered then just direct me to that, and thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
Your stock rubber mounts have comfort in mind for the people in the car. They allow the engine vibrate more freely and not transfer much of the vibration to the cabin. But under acceleration the engine shaking causes wheel hop, which you might not see but it's there. Wheel hop = loss of traction. So by you get harder mounts whether it's by installing inserts, filling them, or replacing with dog bone mounts... you can eliminate wheel hop at the cost of comfort because now the vibrations will be transfered throughout the car.
Sig Applications.

Apply here. haha tricked ya' bitch!

SinfulNeon
2GN Member
Posts: 254
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:21 am
Location: Redding, Ca
Contact:

Post by SinfulNeon » Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:27 am

ahh so its like adding tracking control arms for rear wheel cars to keep the axle from hoping, I figured with it being front wheel drive the wait of the engine would be enough to keep the wheels planted didnt think about the vibration of the engine moving affecting it in the same way, huh Im going to have to try this myself then. :) thanks
Image
::WTB:: Dual or Tri-pod A-Pillar (black) : Passenger A-Pillar (Black) : AGP Dog Bone Motor Mounts : 1st Gen ACR Springs : Shorty Attn. :

User avatar
NiteHawk
2GN Member
Posts: 3130
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:48 am
Location: Export, PA
Contact:

Post by NiteHawk » Wed Nov 07, 2007 2:08 pm

any updates?

i'm thinking about going the JB Weld route, but after talking to chris (blackrose), he mentioned a body shop epoxy that when dried, is solid as a rock.......so i dont know...

i have had the prothane inserts for quite some time now...or was it energy suspension.........dont remember, anyways, they're becoming very soft now and aren't doing the job like they should anymore...
Matt Cresto
Fueled By Matt
Fueling Your Passion

Fuel systems turbo kits and components, tuning, performance parts. Contact us for all of your performance needs.

User avatar
BlackRoseRacing
2009 Platinum Contributor
Posts: 12729
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am

Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Nov 08, 2007 6:14 am

I think what I might have used is called"
Door Skin Sealer-Adhesive
By Kent Inustries
I cant seem to find a web link for them though.....

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 19915
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:01 am

Well, more than $5, but http://www.mcmaster.com/

8644K11
Flexible Urethane Casting Compound 1 Pound Liquid, Shore A 80
In stock at $28.83 Each
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

NickKo
2009 Gold Contributor
Posts: 2248
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:24 am
Location: IL./WI.border

Post by NickKo » Sun Jan 20, 2008 6:31 pm

I have tried / used (cheap) hot melt glue, and I have not found it to be really durable.

1). Some of the glue that I used broke up into chunks.
Some of it stayed in place, but some of it was gone.

2). OR it can also MELT and / or soften due to engine compartment heat. :oops:

Lesson learned: Depending on the season, where you live (climate) and the TYPE of hot melt glue used, "your results may vary".

I have tried using Liquid Nails too !! But that can also suffer from cracking up and breaking into chunks with age and stress.


A good grade of urethane or MM inserts is probably the best and most durable way to go.

Good tip: I read a tip from someone who advised using new motor mount insulators (the rubber part) when either filling or installing motor mount inserts.
This is supposed to reduce vibrations greatly, and will keep the rubber in 'like new' condition and keep it from sagging with age.
Replacement rubber insulators can be bought quite cheaply from Auto Zone.

I am going to try this on my 'new' 00. :thumbup:

-Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

moorepower1
n00b
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:20 am
Location: Nebraska

Post by moorepower1 » Sat Aug 08, 2009 9:48 pm

3M window urethane works well.
2000 atx R/T exhaust and bumper SRT springs and sway bars Tokigo blue struts prothane bushings, bars and a arms

User avatar
03wingswestR/T
2GN Member
Posts: 520
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:48 am
Location: stockton cali

Post by 03wingswestR/T » Sun Aug 09, 2009 12:24 pm

moorepower1 wrote:3M window urethane works well.
thats what i used 2 days ago!! works great.... :thumbup:
Image

teamliviD
ECN Moderator
Posts: 2143
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 4:34 am
Location: maryland
Contact:

Post by teamliviD » Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:46 am

Where did you guys buy your 3M window urethane?
Joe
team liviD
2K5 Black SRT-4
2K2 Black R/T..thats right I'm bringing her back!!
2K6 Red Charger R/T

ECN v2.0 IS HERE.....
Support 2gn! viewtopic.php?t=39019

Post Reply

Return to “HT Chassis”