How-To: Change Front Brake pads (non srt)

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How-To: Change Front Brake pads (non srt)

Post by OB » Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:18 pm

I finally got around to changing out my front pads, here's some pics and info from my experience. Note this is on a 05 neon sxt, all brake systems are not exactly the same (you'll find out why below).

TOOLS NEEDED:

10mm socket and ratchet
Needle nose pliers (optional)
Regular pliers
Chisel/wedge (optional)
C-Clamp (4" opening will do)
Jack and stands
whatever else u might feel u need!

STEP 1: Park car in gear and pull ebrake up all the way. Begin on one side of car by jacking it up just enough to get a jack stand under it. Check to make sure you are safe to work, then proceed.

STEP 2: Remove wheel/tire by removing all five lug nuts, and set them aside and out of the way. Be sure to keep track of lugs.

*At this point it is a wise idea to wear gloves if possible

STEP 3: Remove rotor retaining clip by gently prying open the small arms, then using a wedge type device to pry them away from the rotor surface. I used a chisel and removed it easily. Needle nose pliers work great for prying back the little arms that hold onto the threads.



STEP 3: Remove caliper guide pin bolts from the inboard side of the caliper (wheel well side). They are 10mm and fairly easy to reach. Be sure not to remove the lubricant from these bolts, as they need to be returned the way they came out.


STEP 4: Loosen the caliper by gently wiggling the rotor back and fourth, then grab ahold of the caliper and wiggle it off.

*Be careful not to damage the piston or the guide pin boots when removing the caliper.

**DO NOT let the caliper assembly hang freely from the brake lines! Use something (like a jackstand) to balance it and be sure not to creat any tension on the fittings of the lines.


STEP 5: Set the caliper on its backside so that you can easily access the brake pads. Remember not to let the brake lines twist or deform in any way, keep them as stress free as possible.

STEP 6: Remove the outer brake pad first, by prying the clamps off one side at a time.


STEP 7: Remove the inner brake pad next, by first pulling the top portion of it towards you, then pulling the bottom. There isnt really a perfect way to get them out, but i found this to be easiest.


STEP 8: Use C Clamp to depress the piston. Be very careful not to damage the piston or overtighten the clamp. Once the piston is depressed, you can remove the clamp and it will remain open.


STEP 9: Insert new pads, starting with the inner one, working exactly reverse from the way they came out (see above).


Do the same for the outer pad (very simple) by slipping the clamps over the caliper, right into the little grooves that hold them in. No prying is necessary, but it might help if its difficult.

STEP 10: Replace the rotor, then reinstall the caliper onto the rotor. To do this make sure the little clips on each end of the brake pads are sitting in their proper place on the steering knuckle.

***The left and right knuckles are different, take note.

STEP 11: Put everything back together. Once the calipers are in, the rest is cake. Just replace the guide pin bolts, making sure the rotor has clearance before tightening them all the way down. Replace the rotor clip, pry down all the arms, and replace the wheel and tire combo.

BREAKING IN THE BRAKES>>>

Make 3-4 moderate (firm pedal pressure but not hard) stops from 30-40 mph, then make 3-4 hard stops from 20-30 then 30-40 mph, allowing the brakes to lock up if necessary. After this the pads should have seated and are ready for normal operation.

Check for rubbing sounds or anything that feels out of place and address it. IF the brakes feel mooshy at all, bleed the lines and replace the fluid.

DONE!
Last edited by OB on Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Derek

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Nick Drake
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Post by Nick Drake » Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:35 pm

Great write-up OB :thumbleft:
kc2002acr wrote:because if I was racing you at a 60 roll, I would have been in second for a second till I hit 3rd, then I would have called you on my cell phone and asked you if my taillights were all working. :rofl: ;) :D

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Post by 03sxt » Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:45 pm

I agree! Awesome write-up, but I would include to use like a block of wood between the caliper piston and the C-clamp to ensure that you don't damage the piston. My dad taught me to use like a piece of 3"x3" plywood about 1/4" thick to completely cover the piston and then squeeze at the center of the piece of board to ensure even pressure around the whole piston.

Just a tip! ;)

Edit: You should also include something along the lines of removing the master cylinder cap before you depress the pistons. I dunno if it's a necessity, but my dad also taught me to do that to relieve pressure that you're going to force back in.

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Post by OB » Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:54 pm

Both good points 03, the only reason i didnt use the block is because my fat clamp did the trick on its own. It put equal pressure on top and bottom so as not to damage the piston. And the master cyl thing i havent heard of but it makes sense. however, removing the cap from the mast cyl and then depressing the piston could cause the fluid in the mast cyl to spray out or possible suck in air, so id have to know for sure that it was a smart idea before i tried it :wink:
-Derek

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:11 pm

One other trick to making the piston collapse easily is to remove the master cyliner res. cap....
Just be sure to re-apply it when everyting is complete...
Last edited by BlackRoseRacing on Mon Jun 19, 2006 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by OB » Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:36 pm

yeah thats what 03 said. my pistons depresses quite easily tho, so if its a problem for others, i say do what works!
-Derek

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Post by caustic neon » Thu Jun 08, 2006 10:00 pm

? why take the roter retaner clip off i never did?
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Re: How to: Change Front Brake pads (non srt)

Post by dblsg » Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:20 am

orangeblastsxt wrote: TOOLS NEEDED:

10mm socket and ratchet
Needle nose pliers (optional)
Regular pliers
Chisel/wedge (optional)
C-Clamp (4" opening will do)
Jack and stands
whatever else u might feel u need!
YOUR FORGOT THE BEER!!!!!!!!

:lol:
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Post by OB » Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:23 am

caustic neon wrote:? why take the roter retaner clip off i never did?
to allow the rotor to move freely, allowing it to help get the caliper loose. its not necessary, but it may help.

my write up was simply what i did, not necessarily how it is 'supposed to be done'. everyone has their way of doin things, and id like you all to feel free to post tips (like the others have) so all the options are on the board!

thanks
-Derek

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Post by latief » Fri Jun 09, 2006 10:04 am

Maybe i'm mistaken, but i'm quite sure that my car has no roter retainer clip !!????? how could that be?

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Post by OB » Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:17 am

it could have been lost or something, you tell me 8)

not a huge deal it just prevents the rotor from bouncin around when the wheel is off. as long as your lugs are on tight i dont see u having any problems whatsoever.
-Derek

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Post by dinetuner » Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:19 pm

nice one man... heheh it cracks me up thouhg like the change your oul one..lol
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:16 am

great write-up.

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Post by OB » Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:05 pm

im changin my dads pads this week sometime, so i might be takin some more pics in better detail. Ill also note whether or not the knuckles differ from left to right. ill update asap
-Derek

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Post by Mopar00Neon » Fri Jun 30, 2006 4:01 pm

The rotor retainer clip was put on at the factory to keep the rotors from moving around or falling off on the assembly line. It serves no purpose after the car hits the ground at the factory.


OB, why did you change your pads? Your stockers had what looks like 60% or more life left in them.
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.

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Post by OB » Fri Jun 30, 2006 4:45 pm

good point about the clip, thats perfectly correct.

I changed pads cuz my brakes just werent feeling the way i like em. the felt soft and faded easily. just during normal street driving. I know it wasnt necessary, but it sure made a difference, and now i dont have to worry about them for quite a long time. Ive been doing as much maintenance on the car before i start school so i can worry about the stresses of bills and all that. I like to keep the car in tip top shape!
-Derek

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Post by badgett » Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:48 pm

An added bonus to removing the master cylinder cap is it pushes any air out of the system when your c-clamp is backing the fluid up. The air bubbles will just pop in the master cylinder and escape.
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Post by OB » Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:54 pm

when i changed my dads front pads i removed the cap, and it sure didnt seem to change much. piston was still stiff as a brick. well i tried it like i said :wink:
-Derek

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:38 pm

you may have not noticed much, but it does help!
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Post by Supermanneon » Thu Apr 05, 2007 6:31 pm

Can someone point me to a picture of the master cyl cap Im looking though the haynes manual and i must be over looking it. thanks!

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Post by racer12306 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:28 pm

pm sent
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Post by getcrunk88 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:08 pm

is their pics because i cant see any of em might just be my comp anybody else got this prob??
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:13 pm

no pics. he might have moved them from his host, or deleted them.

i dont really thing you need pics. once you get in there you will see what he is saying.

also, you dont really need to be gentle with that little retaining clip is you aren't intending to put it back on. i grab it with a pair of pliars and rip it right off. it wont damage the wheel studs.

also, if you leave the inner pad on, you can use that to press the piston back in, if your clamp opens enough. doesn't matter if you hurt the pad since you are replacing them.
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Post by OB » Thu Apr 05, 2007 11:47 pm

yeah sorry I accidentally deleted the pics from my photobucket, ive already recieved several PM's about this so ill try to dig them up, maybe theyre still on my computer somewhere. feel free to PM with if u have any questions about the install ;)
-Derek

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Post by racer12306 » Thu Apr 05, 2007 11:53 pm

id be willing to field some questions too if you cant get in touch with OB.

its a very simple job and some common sense will get you through it.

there is also a specific torque to torque the caliper bolts to if you want to be picky about it like me.

According to my FSM that torque is 192 in-lbs which translates to 16 ft-lbs. it doesnt seem like much but they are small bolts.
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Post by OB » Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:28 am

Indeed, torque is very important. I should have included that in my write up from the get go!
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Post by Supermanneon » Fri Apr 06, 2007 7:30 am

Dont own a torgue wrench guess i should buy 1, I also still need to buy some jackstands before i tackle this....So 1 thing i wasnt sure about was if i open the master cylinder cap and compress the caliber i wont have a problem with air bucuz the air will just escape where the cap is opened? Im still reading things about this i really want to do it myself i wanna also do my oil change about the same time if weather permits..

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Post by cgneon » Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:27 am

i never used a torque wrench on mine, or opened the master cylinder cap.. worked out fine...
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Post by racer12306 » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:06 am

since you do not actually crack open brake lines, then you dont need to bleed. and there shouldnt be any air in the lines unless there is a problem. but you would feel the brakes being spongy.

it also wouldnt be a bad idea to put a clean rag over the master cyl opening to prevent dirt from getting in there.

sure a torque wrench isnt needed, but ive had problems with overtorqueing stuff when i was little so i use a torque wrench whenever possible.
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Post by getcrunk88 » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:11 am

i hate it when sombody wants me to work on their car that i know nothing about and im supposed to fix it like i know what to do. EVERY car is diffrent and you cant just work on it without knowing the important crucial info, most of the time its a lil step that i can miss and most of the time that lil step is crucial i torque EVERYTHING i touch and i search like a mofo to find the torque sometimes. Some people just dont understand
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