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Setting up a sound system
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:42 am
by aperson
Since all performance mods have been put off until spring due to winter, I'm looking into a sound system. For some reason it just doesn't seem loud enough. I'm thinking of adding an amp and swapping out for some Infinity KAPPA series all around. I'm not too concerned with money, I can get quite a bit at Best Buy with my employee discount. (The reference series for 109 got dropped to 45 w/discount) I'd like to keep the stock radio if possible. I might put a sub in somewhere, I just want some volume and quality. Any help would be appreciated.
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:26 am
by jT
depends how loud you think you need it... i'm perfectly happy with my 150w MTX amp (12" sub, pioneer head, and all stock speakers that sound mostly like ass but still not changing them because they sound like fine ass right now), but by any normal standards 150w is nothing.. it's a little bump compared to a 1000w system.. but its fine for me and is loud enough
all depends what you are looking for
if you want your music to sound good
if you want everyone around you to know what you are listening to
if you want to be real cool and set off car alarms as you pass by
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:05 am
by ZeroChad
Money not a problem? Then invest in some component speakers. My dad has 4 polk audio's in his boat, they are amazing. He also has 2 10in infinities in custom boxes under the hood, err hatch.
I'm rocking a 12" RF sub 200Wrms in a ported enclosure. I still think I get more quality bass then him though, and the entire boat is made out of fiberglass, so you'd think that would add to his. All in all if you want some lows to support your system you don't need that many Ws for it to sound good.
I'd concentrate on getting some good components. A good decent amp to run them. And a head unit with some sound options.
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:53 pm
by aperson
Okay then, so 150 is a little bump and 1000 sets off car alams then I want around a 300-500w amp right? Whats the difference in subs inch wise and where do I mount it?
Are Infinity Kappa's component?
Also does head unit mean deck?
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:05 pm
by ZeroChad
No, but I've heard good things about the Kappa series. I have a similar speaker in my car and it sounds great.
Here's what components look like (seperated tweeter with crossover)
Infinit
My dad's Polk Audio
What people would do is either mount the tweeter on the door, or replace the dash one with it. I haven't replaced my tweeters yet. They don't sound bad running on the aftermarket headunit (deck).
About the subs, yeah, you're gunna want something in the 400W+ range ( This is 200Wrms+). Search for the difference between peak power and average/rms power. The larger the subwoofer the less stress it has when playing lower frequencies (I'm assuming this). You'll want to have a decent enclosure. A 100W system can outperform a 300W system if it has a proper enclosure over the 300W one's. For longevity you should check into a sub with a dual voice coil.
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:10 pm
by esteinmaier
A DVC isn't going to last any longer, or pound any harder than a SVC. It's just more versatile for driving an amp at it's optimum resistance. Typically, higher end subs come DVC because of the cost involved in building it, but an identical sub otherwise will perform the same.
I agree that components are the way to go, but a good set can be very expensive. If you're not looking to go overboard, you can still get some pretty incredible sound with a good set of coax speakers. The Kappas are decent.
Here's what you need to get:
4 full range speakers (or component sets)
Sub box of choice
4 channel amp making at least 75W RMS per channel and has a low cut filter
Mono sub amp matched to the subs with a high cut filter.
While I still cared about what the car sounded like on the inside, I worked at a store that did JL, and my plan was to do a 3.5" coax on the dash, 6.5" coax in the doors, and 6X9 coax in the rear deck. A single 10W6 in the trunk. The sub in the trunk powered by a 500/1 amp, and the 4 channel split so the dash and door speakers shared channels, and the rear deck had their own channels. The perfect way to do it is to actually run 7 amp channels and components all around, but that's a little overkill for most of us.
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:21 am
by aperson
Okay so I finally took the plunge, I swapped out the deck for an Alpine CDA-9883, some 6.5 Infinity References in the front and 6x9 References in the back. Now I'm looking into a sub because the bass on these things aren't that great, granted they sound good but I need more bass.
Now my views have changed some since the original post, I want to be able to be able to crank this thing up to a decent level and still hear it with the windows down
cruising around 65-70MPH.
I'm looking into a mono or 2 channel amp and was recommended 2 10" subs for what I want to do. I listen to damned near anything, but the thing pushing this purchase is the fact that when any bass hits it all turns to crap. I was told 10" subs because they normally have a better response then larger subs. Now I do have an accomodations through work for disocunt prices so here's what I've been looking at:
Subs (all dual voice coil):
Alpine SWR-1042D $75
Infinity REF1052W $36.45
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 $91.87
Amps:
Alpine MRP-M500 $100
Infinity Ref 1300A $84
What would be the best combonation? Any other suggestions that I should be aware of, I can also get some Rockford amps/subs as well, but I work in the Geek Squad and we've had a few Rockford amps come back as of late. Thanks in advance.
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:47 pm
by JCsrt04
you need to set the decks eq settings up...you should get some decent bass out of them.
if you like punchy tighter base get 2 10s...deeper base get 2 12s.....need trunk space get 1 12.
both brands a good...all comes down to preference in the end and how loud you want it.
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:55 pm
by nineball
i have an all alpine setup, so i say the alpine sub. the thing is, that sub is rated at 500rms. the almpine amp is 500 x 1 @ 2ohm, so it really only has enough power to drive one of them. of course you don't have to give it full power, and could get a pair of 1022 (dual 2ohm) and wire them down to a 2ohm total load and give each sub 250.
Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 2:12 am
by aperson
JCsrt04: I should have phrased that better, Its not that the bass is horrible like I originally stated, just different from stock. You're the fourth person thats recommended dual tens for tight bass so I think thats the route I'll go.
But as for which ones specifically to go with, I'm looking at the REF1600A amp which is 600w RMS. And for subs I'm thinking of either Infinity KAPPA 102.7w or 104.7w. The difference is that the 102.7w's have are selectable between 1 and 4 ohms and the 104.7w's are selectable between 4 and 8 ohms. Which ones should I be looking at for a dual sub setup with this amp?
Also could anybody point me in the direction of a decent how to on how to hook this up?
Update: I just got done dynamating the trunk and I now have some bass back. I'm going to finish up the car and see how I like it after that before I add more equipment. Thanks for all the help.