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Well, for the last year and a half-two years or so, I've had my Pioneer stereo that has been great, however... I've been wanting more lately. And, it just so happens that a coworker's husband bought a truck with "too loud of a system" in it, so he agreed to sell it cheap!

300 bucks got me this:

1 Power Acoustik 1200W peak amp
2 Kicker 12" subs
all in a pretty nice looking box, just have to move the amp from the top of the box to the rear, cuz it hits the center seat belt box right now.

I think it's going to sound pretty good! (I hope so)

I'll have some pics up later on when I go back downstairs.

not bad, buit if i were you i wouldnt mount the amp on the box, i would plug up the existing holes and mount the amp on the back of the rear seats or throw some wood on the trunk floor, carpet it and screw it into the plastic spare cover up agenst the rear seat.

1) mounting an amp on the box is a big no no in audio. it subjects the amp to extreme vibrations which will damage the amp or interfiere with its circuitry. 2) the holes you just made on the box has now changed the airspace inside the box

Yeah, that's not a bad idea either, maybe I'll do that instead of mounting it to the back...

Craz1000 wrote:2) the holes you just made on the box has now changed the airspace inside the box

heheh come on... any box that has an amp mounted to it in the first place will not notice the difference that the screw sticking out into the box has on the airspace. even the best built box you have ever owned would not notice the amount of air that could possibly travel through the small amount of space the screw makes would not even be measurable. if nothing else the pressure of the amp on the carpet surrounding the hole would create a seal that would stop air.

i agree with the vibrations.

nineball wrote:

Craz1000 wrote:2) the holes you just made on the box has now changed the airspace inside the box

heheh come on... any box that has an amp mounted to it in the first place will not notice the difference that the screw sticking out into the box has on the airspace. even the best built box you have ever owned would not notice the amount of air that could possibly travel through the small amount of space the screw makes would not even be measurable. if nothing else the pressure of the amp on the carpet surrounding the hole would create a seal that would stop air.

i agree with the vibrations.

if you have a sub inside of a box that has screw holes in it, the air being forced though the holes creates a sond that sorta sonds just like a blown sub ive seen it so many times. also if the sub is in a sealed box and it has screw holes in it the holes dosent let the sub create pressure inside the box anymore which then in turn changes how the sub sounds because the reflex and/or its responce time has changed

^ yep.

empty screw holes, i agree. if something is mounted to it, the holes are filled and no air escapes.

Not great quality pics, but I like the looks of this setup!

TheRandom1 wrote:I like the looks of this setup!

and that is all tht matters enjoy the system.

Well... not ALL that matters... I hope it sounds as good as it looks when I get it hooked up on Thursday!

just remember that electronics dont like to be shaken arround, also 99% of boxes are made of particle board which with all the vibration going on the wood arround the screw will decay over time and you have air leaking arround the screws. also if the amp dies and you replace it with a different amp because the old one will most likely be discontinued or impossible to find the new amps screw holes wont line up 100%

you have to think about what could happen in the future too

Is that a Qlogic box?

yes it is, with 2 Type-R's in it

Cool that's the same box I had / have but am selling.

Damn dude!!!!!!

How much you throwin at those R's?

How much you throwin at those R's?

the MRD-M605's are rated 600w RMS @ 2ohms with 14.4v, i hooked up my scope to it and they actually are putting out 900w RMS with a peak of 1700w on a cold day 1540w on a hot day, this is to each sub since each Type-R have thier own deadicated amp

and im selling that shit, my full system the 3 amps, subs, speakers, wires, caps, tweters for 2g's, everything is in like-new condition except for the box, it was a floor model and i had to do some siloconing to keep the air from leaking though the old screw holes, everything has been babied ive only cranked up the bass about 5 times since ive had it, i got this exssessive system because at low volumes you can beat the clarity, plus its great th shut someone up that thinks thier duals are hot shit

here is a list of my system
2x RF 1Farad digital caps
2awg main power/ground wire
2x 2-1/0awg 6-4awg stinger D-Blocks
2x Alpine v12 series MRD-M605 amps
Alpine v12 series MRV-F345
2x Alpine SWR-1224? Dual 4ohm subwoofers
Type-R 6x9's
Type-R 6.5in component set
TONS of 4awg wire
8awg (+ and - are 8awg) speaker wire to subs
12awg speaker wire to X-Overs/ 6x9's

my new system is this
Focal 165k2p
Focal 690cv
2x JL1000/1v2 amp
JL450/4v2 amp
2x JL13w7's in a custom box made by Rob Jones
JL 2awg power wire with all JL speaker lines and wires
2x Vantage 1Farad caps

why use caps, just upgrade the alt. and battery, it'll do the same thing, with less money.

Caps are easier.

Craz1000 wrote:

here is a list of my system
2x RF 1Farad digital caps
2awg main power/ground wire
2x 2-1/0awg 6-4awg stinger D-Blocks
2x Alpine v12 series MRD-M605 amps
Alpine v12 series MRV-F345
2x Alpine SWR-1224? Dual 4ohm subwoofers
Type-R 6x9's
Type-R 6.5in component set
TONS of 4awg wire
8awg (+ and - are 8awg) speaker wire to subs
12awg speaker wire to X-Overs/ 6x9's

YOUR SELLING YOU SET! i love that set up i herd it at best buy and whoa

I wish i had the money to deck out in JL. I have a type-r and im thinkin pretty soon i might go with the type-x.

My neon is getting a full fiberglass enclosure build right now i will post up once it gets out of the shop. My car is going to be decked out in either Powerbass or O2 Audio which ever company comes through first.

i'm just startin and i'm thinking of startin with a pioneer or alpine sub haha

I'm selling my two 12" P3s w/ a Sony Xplod 1200W amp and that Q-logic ported/sealed box for $200 if you want to start off with THAT

Well, I picked up my 4 gauge power and ground wires last night, now to get some RCA's and a fuse terminal, and some ring terminals and I'll be all set.

Hopefully I'll have that all done tonight, and can report how it sounds by tomorrow!

lawhon wrote:why use caps, just upgrade the alt. and battery, it'll do the same thing, with less money.

caps main purpose arent for the dimming lights like what everyone thinks, they condition power the same way panamax power supplies condition power for HDTV's, dimming lights are from lack of power and caps dont create power so therefore they dont solve that problem, if anything it makes it a little worse because you now have one more thing drawing power

i have a writeup about it in detail somwhere in the audio forum, but basically your alternator PULSES out 13v-14.4v DC. its your battery's secondary job to smooth out the pulses into a steady liniar stream. NOW if 1)you have a crap battery, 2) your battery has some age on it, or 3) your putting a heavy load on your electrical system; your batteries ability to filter this pulse decreases, caps fill that gap. they they dont only do this with just the amps, it affects the car as a whole also. and not even the best optima battery wont filter 100% of the pulse, its just not the batteries goal in life to do so.

why is this important, well if you have a power hungry amp drawing power it will pull power from a more stable electrical system and it will output a more stable wave out to the subs/speakers, this stable wave results in a cleaner reproduction of the audio signal and as a side effect of that your speakers will be a little louder, another side effect of that increased volume is a decrease of power drawn cause you arent cranking the volume as loud so then your electrical system isnt as stressed so i can see why someone would make the connection with dimming lights

all of this also is meaningless if the caps dont have a GOOD ground connection because thats the actual output of the cap and its the input of your amps, power flows from - to + not + to -. alot of people put such a focus on the battery line they end up completely ignoring the fact the the ground is just as important if not MORE important, and i get this to, "why is the fuse on the battery line". the fuse is there not to protect the amp/car, its to protect the wire itself from burning up

Craz1000 wrote:

lawhon wrote:why use caps, just upgrade the alt. and battery, it'll do the same thing, with less money.

caps main purpose arent for the dimming lights like what everyone thinks, they condition power the same way panamax power supplies condition power for HDTV's

you learn something new every day

Good info!

I finally hooked up my system today... and all I can say is that MY SMURFIN EARS ARE BLEEDING!!!!!!!!


Very very cool, very happy about this setup!

No better feeling than hearing the first bass drop on some fresh subs.

Oh my God dude... the feeling is ridiculous, the hearing kind of sucks because my backseat is rattling so bad, lol.

I now have absolutely no use for my rearview mirror, lol... every time the bass hits, the mirror points its way down at my cupholders, lol