Fitting duals runs of 0g wire

Proximity · Post by **Proximity** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:17 pm

For those who have larger systems in place, how do you get the wire to run from the trunk to the engine without making the carpet and trim pieces unfitable? Right now I have a 0 gauge run and a 4 gauge run (that will soon be upgraded to 0g) running up the left side of the car and the shit barely fits. The carpet bulges up and I can't even get the freaking back seat to pop it.

Any techniques or tips that would help me?

sxxxt · Post by **sxxxt** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:06 am

i just ran my 0 gauge from the engin to the trunk under my carpet. the only bulge i had was the front left bolt were the seat is. you can tell cuz the seats over tho.as for the back seat. mine hasnt been inplace for a long time so i just run it under it and just thro my seat ontop. no one rides in the back anyways. you could run it under the car but i dont know if that would be a good idea.

Proximity · Post by **Proximity** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:35 am

The biggest problem area is the up-side-down T thing that covers the east belt for the driver and what not. I'll take pics tomorrow to show how I'm doing it. I might try unbolting some of the shit there, but that's a lot of effort.

And yeah, it's not a big deal if the beat seat isn't perfectly in place, but it's annoying nonetheless

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:36 pm

did you relocate the battery or add a second one? trying to figure out why you would need 2 runs of 0g.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:42 pm

Run one on the other side of the car.

Proximity · Post by **Proximity** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:58 pm

I'm running my grounds back to the battery.

Running it on the other side of the car might not be a bad idea. Might not be worth it anyway though because I have all the speaker + rca wires running. (so space is bad enough.

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 4:28 pm

definately run the power and ground wires down one side and all others on the opposite side of the car. if you have the wire already you may as well run it but there is no need to ground at the battery. it is grounded to the car already.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:12 pm

i ran my 2awg down the center, once you pass the front seats run it to the right of the hump and you wont even know its there

in the trunk i have a d-block that splits my 2awg to 3 4awg lines

Proximity · Post by **Proximity** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:01 pm

nineball wrote:definately run the power and ground wires down one side and all others on the opposite side of the car. if you have the wire already you may as well run it but there is no need to ground at the battery. it is grounded to the car already.

I prefer grounding my amps straight to the battery. I've got 3 amps and a distroblock that I can use for grounds as well as power, so I am. It's a better ground anyway.

i ran my 2awg down the center, once you pass the front seats run it to the right of the hump and you wont even know its there thumbup

in the trunk i have a d-block that splits my 2awg to 3 4awg lines

How'd you get it under the carpet at the back seat? And through to the trunk? Think you could take pics at all?[/quote]

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:49 pm

grounding to the battery is actually a bad thing. i have 3 amps like you with a d-block grounded to the body pulling 180amps (180a x 13.5v=~2500W RMS), if you have a good enough ground and ground it RIGHT you should have no problems especially if you upgrade your grounds under the hood. you want your car to be the conductor because the electronds enter the amp from the ground side NOT the + side. so your chasis ends up being the - line from your alternator and NO WIRE can be as good as a conductor as the body

i drilled a hole under where the A/C lines are, ran it though the center under the carpet, removed the center console and ran it along the drivers side, lifted the carpet and ran it though to the back seat.. not hard at all took about 2min, 15min for the whole run... then again i do this for a living.... or at least used to

Jeremy M · Post by **Jeremy M** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:05 pm

u mean the body that has all sorts of paint, rust and whatever else attached to it?

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:29 pm

well the body and chasis is one piece in our cars if they are unibody which it looks like it...

yea but remember the paint is on top of the metal so its not an issue if anything itll act like an insulator... a REALLY crappy one but at least the bare metal is covered.

and the only time rust is an issue is when more than 80% of the metal between the trunk and the engine compartment is rusted which shouldnt be an issue because if it was that bad.. your car would split in half due to structural weakness. also the entire unibody is energized so in its path to the amp if it meets some resistence (which theres not a direct "path" persay) theres plenty of other metal to go though.

ALL books regarding this subject state that you should NEVER run a seperate ground line for saftey and practical reasons and mostly cause its a bad idea. the body (if the paint is scraped at the grouding point) is the best ground you can possibly get for an amp. also when the car is on power isnt coming from the battery and your not running off it even though the lines are directly connected to it

Jeremy M · Post by **Jeremy M** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:39 am

i find that very weird, cuz in alot of high SPL cars or even cars running 4k daily usually have multiple positve and negative runs to the front battery?

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:56 am

im sure if you upgrade the ground lines to the battery to the same size and amount of wire itll be the same. the system in my car is descent sized for the car and ive installed systems wayyyy better used the chasis and followed the rules, no problems amps drew the same amount of current had the same voltage applied, no problems ever

reasons why people run a 2nd ground line:

- they guy installing it dosent want to deal with alternator whine, or ground loops. so he goes though the trouble of doing this to make sure he dosent get any when all he needs to do is follow a few simple rules and not use shitty amps, and not do a shitty job

- the common misconception that amps pull power from the + side

- past experiments or buddies that noticed that the got more power running a straight line when all they needed to do was upgrade the existing ground lines