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Background:
My 2000 Plymouth Neon was manufactured in may of 1999. It DOES NOT have the harness with the connector in the glove box area. I do have the FOB thing (I think that is what it's called) that locks and unlocks the doors, sets the alarm, pops the trunk and has the panic button.


Deal:
As some of you may now I have been giving a trunk popper button that was from a newer Neon, from a very nice member here on 2GN. I put it in just above the hood latch release.


Solution / Help:
What will I need and how would I go about wiring up a circuit to make this great gift functional. I'm hoping that this has been done before and someone could show me the ropes.

Thank you in advance for any kind of help......


Pictures tell a thousand words.

so all you have is the release button?

theres really only two ways you can go

you can try to make it as stock as possible by getting all the mechanisms from a car that has the trunk release.. this would mainly be the actual trunk lock .. i dont know if it has a built in solenoid or what.. never saw one

or you could do like i did and get a trunk release kit off ebay for around $10 .. its mainly a solenoid with mounting hardware and some wiring.. the solenoid was a BITCH to get mounted.. it took some creativity to get it placed and mounted so that it would actuate properly (it has a wire that connects to the lock to physically pull it open).

not sure what went wrong with mine but one day the wiring started burning up and the solenoid was hot as a mofo.. so it didnt last long.. luckily it happened while i was actually at the car so my car didnt burn up.. heh..

if you can open the trunk with the remote then most of the work is already done.. you DONT have to buy a solenoid. the wire your looking for is at the RKE module on the top dash to pop the trunk.. just pop off the dash cover thats held into place with 4 phillips screws and the A pillar covers, the wire colors are on the stickey in the audio/electrical section..

jT wrote:not sure what went wrong with mine but one day the wiring started burning up and the solenoid was hot as a mofo.. so it didnt last long.. luckily it happened while i was actually at the car so my car didnt burn up.. heh..

2 things can cause that, a line grounded out that had power or the other way arround... or the coil inside the solenoid came loose and came into contact with the outer shell. but either way that circuit wasnt fused at all or wasnt fused correctly. wich would have stoped the wire from burning up

That's some great information. Thanks a lot.

i also got that cheap ass kit off ebay it has a huge freaking selunoid.lol but just like he said with somework got it to mount right but from what i hear the oem trunk pop just has to wires that ocome off it just like the kit one neg and one positive basically just mount it the same way you did the aftermarket ont but throw a fuse in the positive side id say a 15 in it and if it pop then move up intil you can hold the button down with out the selunoid or the wiring getting hot if it does you need to go thru the wireing and see it any of it is damaged or touching something to make a ground. my trunk pop works great but the reason why mine doesn't work is because i didn't mount it real welland one day i left the trunk open so i can get the food out and it slamed shut on itself because the wind pick up really quick. lol

if you can already open the trunk with the fob then you shouldn't need a solenoid.

no you miss under stood i had the selunoid before the fob i

David mentioned that he has the fob, and unless I am misunderstanding, he can open the trunk with the fob.

Ooook so i re read all of it and cunfused my self at first bu here it goes lol ok si if you have the fob already then all you need to do is tap into the fob wire in the dash for the power swicth aka positive wire in i don't remeber off hand or not but i think that the other needs to be grounded but could be hooked up to the batt check your manual if you have one but what it does is act like a second fob key... whe you push the button it conects the two wire makes a complete cuircut and pops the trunk. same as the aftermarket does just without using a big ugly selunoid the stick trunk pop as i recall has a mini sel in it, but before attempting this look at uhm the haynes maual or the ecectrical diagram to make sure this is right.


and if your using your fob jey also make sure you tape into the line before the fob key's switch cuz if you tape itno it after it you will need to have both press to get it open with the button but thefob will work to matter either way i will draw a simple diagram to show you want i mean.

if you have the factory keyless then all you need to do is find that one wire that is on the sticky that corresponds to the year of your car and ground it when you push the button

yep it's the same as the fob key i'm sure that is wich one i used on my friends neon works fine

O.K. so today I tore apart the dash to get at the RKE module. Only to find out that I don't have the brown/lt. blue (decklid rel rly ctl) in the harness/connector. So I decided to connect a test wire to the RKE where the brown/lt. blue wire should have been (according to the Haynes manual)(second row and second pin from the left), and then grounded the other wire from the trunk release button......... and got nothing. I even tried it with the power on as in the manual is says "decklid release switch (power release)." Could it be that since my RKE is an older one, (mind you my Neon was manufactured in May of 1999) and I don't have the harness that is wired for a trunk release button, that the RKE module isn't programmed for that function?

Just so everyone knows I used a digital multi-meter to check all continuity of wires and of the switch.

I hope this make some sense.

it makes sence i didnt see that you said the harness dosent exist so that wire isnt going to be there, neither is the circuit on the RKE board.

so at the rke module your going to have to find the wire that goes to the release solenoid in the trunk and find out what polarity it is and trigger it. which should be easy. if you have a multi-meter just go though the wires one by one and trigger the trunk with the remote and eventually youll find it... or look it up with a wiring diagram