is underpowering subs bad?
Yea i kno i should be looking at the RMS. But basically its pushing 469 RMS when the max on the amp says 550? im confused on that part
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Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
its RMS when the amp is cold, you can figure another 5-10% drop
never pay attention to the max part never go by what is advertised because its a big fat lie. HOWEVER some companies under rate thier amps like RF, Alpine, JL, Focal and so on.
Always go by the calculation based on the fuses on the amp itself, but lately amps have been coming in with RPS's so theres no fuses at all. but usually the top of the line brands are doing this and thier ratings are always dead on anyway
never pay attention to the max part never go by what is advertised because its a big fat lie. HOWEVER some companies under rate thier amps like RF, Alpine, JL, Focal and so on.
Always go by the calculation based on the fuses on the amp itself, but lately amps have been coming in with RPS's so theres no fuses at all. but usually the top of the line brands are doing this and thier ratings are always dead on anyway

Ok So when the amp is cold its 469 RMS? and when i warms up its less wattage?Craz1000 wrote:its RMS when the amp is cold, you can figure another 5-10% drop
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
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86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
Well dam that jus gives me more sub choices
Craz besides the type R's wat other sub would u recommend?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
depends on the cash, but my favorites are
SPL: Fi-Audio BT's or BTL's (www.ficaraudio.com)
Sound Quality: Focal, Fi-Q's, JL W3
Value
Alpine Type-R or Type-S (the old school S's), Pioneer Primier
theres alot more but this is just off the top of my head
generally you want something built well, your going to pay more but itll last you ALOT longer, my Type-R's are going on 5 years now on 750w RMS
SPL: Fi-Audio BT's or BTL's (www.ficaraudio.com)
Sound Quality: Focal, Fi-Q's, JL W3
Value
Alpine Type-R or Type-S (the old school S's), Pioneer Primier
theres alot more but this is just off the top of my head
generally you want something built well, your going to pay more but itll last you ALOT longer, my Type-R's are going on 5 years now on 750w RMS

Alright well wat are some subs i can run off this amp because looking the Fi's and the type R's my amp wont be enough
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
Yea i kno about the ohms n shit. Would it be a bad idea to get a 300-350 RMS sub??
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...
1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...
2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.