is underpowering subs bad?

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nineball
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Post by nineball » Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:58 am

forget MAX ratings. never pay attention to them. they are nothing more than gimicks to advertise. all you need to look at is the RMS rating.


and no, that would not be max. that would be RMS.

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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:56 am

Yea i kno i should be looking at the RMS. But basically its pushing 469 RMS when the max on the amp says 550? im confused on that part
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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:49 pm

its RMS when the amp is cold, you can figure another 5-10% drop

never pay attention to the max part never go by what is advertised because its a big fat lie. HOWEVER some companies under rate thier amps like RF, Alpine, JL, Focal and so on.

Always go by the calculation based on the fuses on the amp itself, but lately amps have been coming in with RPS's so theres no fuses at all. but usually the top of the line brands are doing this and thier ratings are always dead on anyway
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:31 pm

Craz1000 wrote:its RMS when the amp is cold, you can figure another 5-10% drop
Ok So when the amp is cold its 469 RMS? and when i warms up its less wattage?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:49 pm

yes sir
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:54 pm

Well dam that jus gives me more sub choices :D Craz besides the type R's wat other sub would u recommend?
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Thu Sep 04, 2008 4:25 pm

depends on the cash, but my favorites are
SPL: Fi-Audio BT's or BTL's (www.ficaraudio.com)
Sound Quality: Focal, Fi-Q's, JL W3

Value
Alpine Type-R or Type-S (the old school S's), Pioneer Primier

theres alot more but this is just off the top of my head

generally you want something built well, your going to pay more but itll last you ALOT longer, my Type-R's are going on 5 years now on 750w RMS
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:07 am

Alright well wat are some subs i can run off this amp because looking the Fi's and the type R's my amp wont be enough
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:45 am

the r's and FI-Q's will be fine with 400w.

the thing is if you get a DVC sub it has to be a dual 2ohm if your just hooking up 1 sub to that 2-ch
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:34 am

Yea i kno about the ohms n shit. Would it be a bad idea to get a 300-350 RMS sub??
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:47 am

its fine as long as the peak is above the amps RMS
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jetas
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Post by jetas » Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:38 pm

Alright then. Thanks for all the help guys :thumbup:
-J.J. | Official I sold my Neon Member #008
86.5 Nissan Hardbody LB- will be for sale soon...

1989 Yota PU- "Tammy" -Rest In Pieces...

2000 Plym Neon- "Stacy" -Sold 3/25/09 =(
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.

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