If anyone's got any helpful hints... please... lol. I about had it with my car last night. It's chillin at my buddy's place with the $35 used alternator waiting to be put in it (which came off an '03 that had about 50k miles on it).
Thanks
Only engine upgrade I have is a CAI. No UDP.neonslg09 wrote:do you have a udp?
Ya, I'm confused too...contagious18 wrote:am i missing sumting?
In other threads, members here have mentioned that 13.3 is a bit low. There's sit at around 14, and it should sit close to 15 Volts.superdan wrote:whats wrong with that? 13.3 is good, or am i missing something?2005.Neon.SXT wrote:So we switched out the alternator. Still reading around 13.3 ish Volts. Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be? I'm about annoyed at the car...
Used to have a stereo system, but I haven't for quite a while (sold it late last year). Only accessories I have are: 3 pillar gauges, gauge overlays, 4 Oznium LED strips for my interior lighting, and a GPS Unit. I was thinking about the grounds, but would that help? Honestly?2k2rt wrote:normal voltage when the car is running should be "around" 13.9 volts (according to my mechanic buddy). my 02 R/T usually runs between 13.6 and 14.0. every once in a while she'll act up and run your 13.3 - 13.4. as long as my battery light doesn't come on i'm ok with that.
do you have anything such as a loarge stereo that draws excessive power? lots of accessories running? does it read lower at night or if you have the wipers going ( mine does this ). what about your grounds (yes i know that won't affect it too much, but it can't hurt to upgrade them)
Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know?superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V![]()
my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.
dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
well yeah i could see the dealership quoting you cause its really not an easy job. My alternator got to the point as to were the car would stall out lol but yeah all is good now. i was using the word "waste" as in you dont need the one you just bought. unless your other one was giving you a lower volt reading2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know?superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V![]()
my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.
dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
Thanks for the input guys. I really wanna source the issue. Keep the comments comin
Oh we already swapped it out. Which is why I made this thread because everyone "voted" that it was the alternator that was giving me the Volt "issues". And lemme tell you... swapping that alternator was no easy jobsuperdan wrote:well yeah i could see the dealership quoting you cause its really not an easy job. My alternator got to the point as to were the car would stall out lol but yeah all is good now. i was using the word "waste" as in you dont need the one you just bought. unless your other one was giving you a lower volt reading2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know?superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V![]()
my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.
dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
Thanks for the input guys. I really wanna source the issue. Keep the comments comin
Really?... I think the only reason I am finding this to be an issue (to me) is because my lights flicker and my car won't go a couple weeks without dying (everytime we leave for training ops that last a couple weeks, I always have to track someone down to jump start my car).Fuzzyneon wrote:O.o mines always 13.5 rarely higher but never lower then 13.2ish
Ntyvirus1 wrote:im debadged so i just drive a gray thing.
I just remembered when I went to AutoZone to get my battery and alternator checked. The alternator that I removed was doing 26 Amps. Also, as for my battery, when it got checked (a few months ago) it was good. I do have wiring in my car from a previous setup, but the ends are tapped off... would it matter if the wire's still connected to the battery? The one with the fuse? I've not had a stereo system for a long ass time. And my grounds I have not checked, but if you all suggest I upgrade my grounds (bigger AWG) and that it'll help then I will.jetas wrote:is ur battery still good?? have u checked for any short circuits?
Is there any wiring left in the car from the previous stereo system??
Have you checked to make sure your grounds are properly fastened?
If the battery dies after a few weeks of not being charged, then u jump it, it could possibly fuck it up over a period of time. Atleast thats how it is to my understanding. Anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong

Did you install it yourself? Or had the shop do it? If the shop, how much did it all cost you? I should've looked around for a PT Cruiser alternator instead of a Neon one...superdan wrote:thats what i went with for my new one...no problems at all with itexcon wrote:A PT cruiser alternator is a good upgrade from the stock neon one.
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
When it wouldn't start, did it like sputter, die, and absolutely lose all power? That's what mine did. Tried starting then right away it died. Lost all power. And cleaning the grounds is something I should really do. I didn't think it would be something that I need to consider since it's not that old of a car, but perhaps I just got the shit end. Thanks NickNickKo wrote:I recently picked up a neglected '99 Neon, which left me stranded in an Advanced Auto parking lot, because it wouldn't start (just my luck, huh?)
After getting jump started, I drove home, and went through the charging system.
- Checked system output with a voltmeter..... was at 12.8v or something
- Replaced alternator belt & checked tension
- Took my Dremel Tool and wire-brushed the output terminal & connector to clean them up
- replaced alternator pulley, installed O.D.P. (over-drive pulley)
- cleaned the engine compartment grounds the same way that I did with the alternator terminals....using Dremel Tool
The car cranks & fires up immediately now, and voltage output is up where it should be.![]()
- Nick
I've read in numerous threads on this forum that doing that isn't going to do anything, and might even make things worse. Thanks though.vincer20 wrote:to check alt un hook the battery while the car is running.
Read that thread, but it didn't really give me any ideas on what my problem could be. I'll have to try the temp sensor diagnostic though. Thanksoccasional demons wrote:That is old school, and may fry the PCM on newer cars. Do not unhook the alternator while running.
Edit: viewtopic.php?t=17558
If the battery temp/ait sensor is bad (depending on the year of the car), the voltage will stay around 13V give or take some. But the battery light should also be lit. The temp sensor is about $7, so it is a relatively cheap "part swap diagnostic".
The PCM also regulates the voltage output, the regulator is not in the alternator.
You could put the temp sensor in ice water, and the voltage should raise slightly. This is because the PCM is programmed to give higer voltage in cold weather, and lower voltage in hot temps to prevent overheating the battery while charging.
Sounds more like a bad battery terminal connection/cable. I would definately go over the grounds, and the battery post/connections.as soon as I attempted to start her... everything died. All power in the car absolutely lost.
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Sounds good. Definitely will do that as soon as possible... not anytime soon though because it has been thunderstorming all day, and will continue tomorrow as welloccasional demons wrote:Sounds more like a bad battery terminal connection/cable. I would definately go over the grounds, and the battery post/connections.as soon as I attempted to start her... everything died. All power in the car absolutely lost.
A bad connection would screw with the voltage the PCM sees hindering it's ability to regulate the voltage. It is basically as close to running with the battery unhooked as you'll get.