Alternator *Updated Once More*

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2005.Neon.SXT
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Alternator *Updated Once More*

Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:44 am

Ok, I just want to say to whoever said it was easy to change this thing out... that it's not! Not unless I start tearing things apart in the car, but I coulda swore someone said it's easy. "It'll slide right out, only hard part is getting the bolts off". From pictures that I could find, it looks like people took off that whole splash guard behind the wheel and brakes in order to get to the alternator because that thing isn't going anywhere.

If anyone's got any helpful hints... please... lol. I about had it with my car last night. It's chillin at my buddy's place with the $35 used alternator waiting to be put in it (which came off an '03 that had about 50k miles on it).

Thanks :thumbup:
Last edited by 2005.Neon.SXT on Mon Aug 10, 2009 1:18 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by vincer20 » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:29 pm

if you unbolt the mm and lower the block it is a lot easier

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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:29 pm

So we switched out the alternator. Still reading around 13.3 ish Volts. Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be? I'm about annoyed at the car...
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Post by neonslg09 » Fri Jul 31, 2009 10:58 pm

do you have a udp?

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Post by contagious18 » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:40 pm

am i missing sumting?
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Post by superdan » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:42 pm

2005.Neon.SXT wrote:So we switched out the alternator. Still reading around 13.3 ish Volts. Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be? I'm about annoyed at the car...
whats wrong with that? 13.3 is good, or am i missing something?
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:43 pm

neonslg09 wrote:do you have a udp?
Only engine upgrade I have is a CAI. No UDP.
contagious18 wrote:am i missing sumting?
Ya, I'm confused too...
superdan wrote:
2005.Neon.SXT wrote:So we switched out the alternator. Still reading around 13.3 ish Volts. Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be? I'm about annoyed at the car...
whats wrong with that? 13.3 is good, or am i missing something?
In other threads, members here have mentioned that 13.3 is a bit low. There's sit at around 14, and it should sit close to 15 Volts.
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Post by farmboy » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:52 pm

normal voltage when the car is running should be "around" 13.9 volts (according to my mechanic buddy). my 02 R/T usually runs between 13.6 and 14.0. every once in a while she'll act up and run your 13.3 - 13.4. as long as my battery light doesn't come on i'm ok with that.

do you have anything such as a loarge stereo that draws excessive power? lots of accessories running? does it read lower at night or if you have the wipers going ( mine does this ). what about your grounds (yes i know that won't affect it too much, but it can't hurt to upgrade them)

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Post by superdan » Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:57 pm

well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V :shock:

my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.

dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:05 am

2k2rt wrote:normal voltage when the car is running should be "around" 13.9 volts (according to my mechanic buddy). my 02 R/T usually runs between 13.6 and 14.0. every once in a while she'll act up and run your 13.3 - 13.4. as long as my battery light doesn't come on i'm ok with that.

do you have anything such as a loarge stereo that draws excessive power? lots of accessories running? does it read lower at night or if you have the wipers going ( mine does this ). what about your grounds (yes i know that won't affect it too much, but it can't hurt to upgrade them)
Used to have a stereo system, but I haven't for quite a while (sold it late last year). Only accessories I have are: 3 pillar gauges, gauge overlays, 4 Oznium LED strips for my interior lighting, and a GPS Unit. I was thinking about the grounds, but would that help? Honestly?
superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V :shock:

my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.

dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know? :D

Thanks for the input guys. I really wanna source the issue. Keep the comments comin :)
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Post by superdan » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:12 am

2005.Neon.SXT wrote:
superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V :shock:

my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.

dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know? :D

Thanks for the input guys. I really wanna source the issue. Keep the comments comin :)
well yeah i could see the dealership quoting you cause its really not an easy job. My alternator got to the point as to were the car would stall out lol but yeah all is good now. i was using the word "waste" as in you dont need the one you just bought. unless your other one was giving you a lower volt reading
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:35 am

superdan wrote:
2005.Neon.SXT wrote:
superdan wrote:well if i were i really wouldnt worry haha mine went out a few months ago.....it would read 10V then it would drop down to 9.6V then eventually 4V :shock:

my mechanic checked all my grounds and re-tapped some and they were all fine.

dude other than just wasting $35 your fine. 14V is technically "tops" for a car. and idealy anywhere from 12-14V you more than fine. but if it drops below 12 then start to worry
Damn that sucks about your volts dropping lol. I don't feel that $35 was a waste considering the dealership quoted me $150 ish for the alternator and about $300 for labor to get it installed. So $35 is not bad, ya know? :D

Thanks for the input guys. I really wanna source the issue. Keep the comments comin :)
well yeah i could see the dealership quoting you cause its really not an easy job. My alternator got to the point as to were the car would stall out lol but yeah all is good now. i was using the word "waste" as in you dont need the one you just bought. unless your other one was giving you a lower volt reading
Oh we already swapped it out. Which is why I made this thread because everyone "voted" that it was the alternator that was giving me the Volt "issues". And lemme tell you... swapping that alternator was no easy job :cussing: lol... oh well.
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Sat Aug 01, 2009 1:19 am

O.o mines always 13.5 rarely higher but never lower then 13.2ish
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:08 am

Fuzzyneon wrote:O.o mines always 13.5 rarely higher but never lower then 13.2ish
Really?... I think the only reason I am finding this to be an issue (to me) is because my lights flicker and my car won't go a couple weeks without dying (everytime we leave for training ops that last a couple weeks, I always have to track someone down to jump start my car).
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Post by jetas » Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:09 am

is ur battery still good?? have u checked for any short circuits?

Is there any wiring left in the car from the previous stereo system??

Have you checked to make sure your grounds are properly fastened?

If the battery dies after a few weeks of not being charged, then u jump it, it could possibly fuck it up over a period of time. Atleast thats how it is to my understanding. Anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:43 am

jetas wrote:is ur battery still good?? have u checked for any short circuits?

Is there any wiring left in the car from the previous stereo system??

Have you checked to make sure your grounds are properly fastened?

If the battery dies after a few weeks of not being charged, then u jump it, it could possibly fuck it up over a period of time. Atleast thats how it is to my understanding. Anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong
I just remembered when I went to AutoZone to get my battery and alternator checked. The alternator that I removed was doing 26 Amps. Also, as for my battery, when it got checked (a few months ago) it was good. I do have wiring in my car from a previous setup, but the ends are tapped off... would it matter if the wire's still connected to the battery? The one with the fuse? I've not had a stereo system for a long ass time. And my grounds I have not checked, but if you all suggest I upgrade my grounds (bigger AWG) and that it'll help then I will.

Thanks.
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Post by vincer20 » Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:14 am

try doing the big 3 upgrade might be something in youre ground.

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Post by heydockyle » Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:04 am

I haven't checked the voltage on mine, but my lights dim no matter what I do. Dim real hard with the system. Dim when I roll windows down. Battery never dies from sitting though.
It's annoying because all my buddy's in there other cars lights don't dim with bigger systems then mine, and they can sit there and let the system play for an hour without the car running and nothing happen.

I've actually drained this battery many many times from leaving the radio play with the car off for only like 5 minutes. I'm suprised the battery is still working to be honest.
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Post by excon » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:07 pm

A PT cruiser alternator is a good upgrade from the stock neon one.
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:26 pm

Alright, quick question. My car, once turned off after being jumped, will die once I try to start her up again. Battery or Alternator? I'm afraid that the alternator that I picked up at the salvage yard was bad and that the one we took out was just fine... the problems elsewhere. What do you all think? It was fine from yesterday till today.

Thanks.
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Post by superdan » Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:49 pm

excon wrote:A PT cruiser alternator is a good upgrade from the stock neon one.
thats what i went with for my new one...no problems at all with it
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:16 pm

superdan wrote:
excon wrote:A PT cruiser alternator is a good upgrade from the stock neon one.
thats what i went with for my new one...no problems at all with it
Did you install it yourself? Or had the shop do it? If the shop, how much did it all cost you? I should've looked around for a PT Cruiser alternator instead of a Neon one... :banghead:
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Post by superdan » Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:27 pm

i had my mechanic do it for me cause i didnt feel like messing with it at the time. IIRC he gave me a deal and just made me pay for the alternator or maybe i paid the labor but anyways im not much help to you haha

i couldnt see parts and labor being more than $250 i could be wrong though
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Post by NickKo » Sun Aug 02, 2009 7:14 pm

I recently picked up a neglected '99 Neon, which left me stranded in an Advanced Auto parking lot, because it wouldn't start (just my luck, huh?)

After getting jump started, I drove home, and went through the charging system.
- Checked system output with a voltmeter..... was at 12.8v or something
- Replaced alternator belt & checked tension
- Took my Dremel Tool and wire-brushed the output terminal & connector to clean them up
- replaced alternator pulley, installed O.D.P. (over-drive pulley)
- cleaned the engine compartment grounds the same way that I did with the alternator terminals....using Dremel Tool

The car cranks & fires up immediately now, and voltage output is up where it should be. :thumbup:

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Post by vincer20 » Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:57 pm

to check alt un hook the battery while the car is running.

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:07 pm

That is old school, and may fry the PCM on newer cars. Do not unhook the alternator while running.

Edit: viewtopic.php?t=17558

If the battery temp/ait sensor is bad (depending on the year of the car), the voltage will stay around 13V give or take some. But the battery light should also be lit. The temp sensor is about $7, so it is a relatively cheap "part swap diagnostic".

The PCM also regulates the voltage output, the regulator is not in the alternator.

You could put the temp sensor in ice water, and the voltage should raise slightly. This is because the PCM is programmed to give higer voltage in cold weather, and lower voltage in hot temps to prevent overheating the battery while charging. ;)
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:22 pm

NickKo wrote:I recently picked up a neglected '99 Neon, which left me stranded in an Advanced Auto parking lot, because it wouldn't start (just my luck, huh?)

After getting jump started, I drove home, and went through the charging system.
- Checked system output with a voltmeter..... was at 12.8v or something
- Replaced alternator belt & checked tension
- Took my Dremel Tool and wire-brushed the output terminal & connector to clean them up
- replaced alternator pulley, installed O.D.P. (over-drive pulley)
- cleaned the engine compartment grounds the same way that I did with the alternator terminals....using Dremel Tool

The car cranks & fires up immediately now, and voltage output is up where it should be. :thumbup:

- Nick
When it wouldn't start, did it like sputter, die, and absolutely lose all power? That's what mine did. Tried starting then right away it died. Lost all power. And cleaning the grounds is something I should really do. I didn't think it would be something that I need to consider since it's not that old of a car, but perhaps I just got the shit end. Thanks Nick :thumbup:
vincer20 wrote:to check alt un hook the battery while the car is running.
I've read in numerous threads on this forum that doing that isn't going to do anything, and might even make things worse. Thanks though.
occasional demons wrote:That is old school, and may fry the PCM on newer cars. Do not unhook the alternator while running.

Edit: viewtopic.php?t=17558

If the battery temp/ait sensor is bad (depending on the year of the car), the voltage will stay around 13V give or take some. But the battery light should also be lit. The temp sensor is about $7, so it is a relatively cheap "part swap diagnostic".

The PCM also regulates the voltage output, the regulator is not in the alternator.

You could put the temp sensor in ice water, and the voltage should raise slightly. This is because the PCM is programmed to give higer voltage in cold weather, and lower voltage in hot temps to prevent overheating the battery while charging. ;)
Read that thread, but it didn't really give me any ideas on what my problem could be. I'll have to try the temp sensor diagnostic though. Thanks :)


Alright, so when I got back to the barracks and turned the car off, I attempted to start her up. Nothing. Click on all electricals in the car, then as soon as I attempted to start her... everything died. All power in the car absolutely lost. Good thing I backed up into the parking spot I am in. But I do have a question. When I went to Advanced Auto to get the battery checked, it was jumping from 13.3-13.4 and would occasionally hit 13.5, but never stay there as constantly as the 13.4 range. The guy immediately was like "You're alternator is bad" etc. He went on to say that my alternator should be supplying enough power for the battery to read at least 14 Volts (then went on to say it should even be up in the 15/16 range...). So my question: is this guy just talking out of his ass and doesn't really know what's going on, or does he genuinely know what he's doing? Reason I ask is because other members here have said that 13.8 ish is good. And that the Neon's alternator never puts close to 15 Volts, just usually around 14 Volts.

Sorry for the long ass post, but I'm trying to get a better idea on what exactly is wrong. Could I have possibly just had my luck run out and picked a bad alternator at the salvage yard? How can I know if the alternator doesn't work?

Thanks... :roll:
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Post by farmboy » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:46 pm

i've never seen more than 14.3 from my car.

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:49 pm

as soon as I attempted to start her... everything died. All power in the car absolutely lost.
Sounds more like a bad battery terminal connection/cable. I would definately go over the grounds, and the battery post/connections.

A bad connection would screw with the voltage the PCM sees hindering it's ability to regulate the voltage. It is basically as close to running with the battery unhooked as you'll get.
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:11 am

occasional demons wrote:
as soon as I attempted to start her... everything died. All power in the car absolutely lost.
Sounds more like a bad battery terminal connection/cable. I would definately go over the grounds, and the battery post/connections.

A bad connection would screw with the voltage the PCM sees hindering it's ability to regulate the voltage. It is basically as close to running with the battery unhooked as you'll get.
Sounds good. Definitely will do that as soon as possible... not anytime soon though because it has been thunderstorming all day, and will continue tomorrow as well :banghead:

But thank you.
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