Pt Alternator

Questions about AMPs, headunits, speakers, subs, security systems, ect... Anything to do with audio or security, those questions all go here.
heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:56 pm

wiggyx wrote:
occasional demons wrote:Yeah, that is a tough sell. A couple hundred for 16 potential amps. Actual output and rated are not always the same. Usually 90% of rated out put is with in acceptable limits. Because most times, nobody will know the difference.
Well, by that measure both the 136 and 120 would be rated at about 90% which would still mean a 14-15 amp jump.
The 85amp would by at 90% to though, no?
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Franklinnn
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Post by Franklinnn » Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:35 pm

bump. my alt says 5033253AA, does that mean it is the 120a?

or does anyone have any way of telling which one i have?

EDIT: i have the 120amp 100% sure of that now ;D

computerwiz_222
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Post by computerwiz_222 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:53 am

occasional demons wrote:The real question would be, does the 136 amp require any more hp to turn @120 amp output, than the 136 amp @136 amp output. That answer, we will prolly never know.
I can *try* to answer this question based on the law of conservation of energy. Drawing 120 amps vs 136 amps will need a negligible amount of HP increase.

120 amps @ 13.7 V = 1644 Watts

136 amps @ 13.7 V = 1863 Watts

Given that a horsepower is roughly 745 watts, you are looking at a very minor increase in needed power. I would say maybe 1 HP increase max once you factor in any losses due to efficiency in the alternator. (does anyone know how efficient an alternator is?)

One other comment... when a wire is getting warm, you are loosing precious energy there. It might be considered "safe" if it doesn't catch on fire but it definitely isn't good. Also, remember that the warmer a wire, the higher the resistance.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:27 am

occasional demons wrote:FWIW....

neon
That's weird. I didn't know the SRT-D was all that different.
ImageImage
:mopar: :runaway:

thisdieingdream1
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Post by thisdieingdream1 » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:45 pm

so is this 136 amp alt a DIRECT bolt on to a 04 sxt?

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:27 pm

No.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon May 14, 2012 9:37 am

The 136 amp unit has the same connections, but the mounting ears are farther apart. By about 1/2"

Will try to get pics later on...
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NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Mon May 14, 2012 10:03 am

occasional demons wrote:The 136 amp unit has the same connections, but the mounting ears are farther apart. By about 1/2"

Will try to get pics later on...
How about the Connector, for the field ? :-k Is that the same ??

If the connector is the same, then it should be fairly easy, to 'retrofit' this unit, onto 'regular' Neons, once the mounting issues with the wider ear spacing gets figured out.



- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon May 14, 2012 11:23 am

The Field Control connector is the same, tho I haven't physically plugged it in yet, it looks to be the same. I milled the top hole so it will fit the 2.0 adjuster.

The actual difference is on the pivot end, but changing those two holes would be a challenge. Or you would need to cut/move/weld the lower bracket. Milling the top hole should do the trick.

I also ground a little material from the top bracket, as the alternator body just rubbed the underside a little, But it could be left untouched, just me being anal. :lol:

The other issue is the connectors are clocked more to the top, closer to the exhaust manifold. Not a real issue if the heat shielding is intact on the manifold, but unfortunately the 1gn does not have the shielding there. I am going to have to fab something up, or bite it and buy new.

The back cover on the 136 amp is plastic, so the heat may be an issue. :shock:
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue May 15, 2012 10:40 am

OK, the Field Control connector is not the same, now that I had time to a good look at it.

136 amp 56029701AB
Image

1gn 4793692AB 83amp 1998/99 ECB/ECC (neon) Mitsubishi
Image

I'm assuming the 1gn and 2gn connectors are the same?

Also the stud for the 136 amp is 8mm vs 6mm for the 83 amp, Not a big deal if you are upgrading wiring anyways.

This is what I did to the adjustment hole:
Image
Image

The difference in the back:
Image

The large diameter pulley is the 83 amp, the small the 136. Note the difference at the center.
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The 136 PT pulley will not work for an overdrive on the 85 amp.
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Unless you can turn the center down to match the 83 amp pulley, it will not go past the front boss.

Fortunately, the 136 amp came with the connector, but cut flush. I should be able to take the connectors apart, and use the wiring in the 136 connector for the field control. So you will need to mill the adjuster hole, and swap connectors to use this alternator on a 2.0 neon.

Since I got this for $40 shipped, it is worth it to me to play with it to make it work.

Edit: The terminal ends in the connectors are different widths, so the existing wiring cannot be used in the newer connector. This wouldn't apply to 2gn's.
Last edited by occasional demons on Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Sat May 19, 2012 7:59 pm

occasional demons wrote:
I'm assuming the 1gn and 2gn connectors are the same?
*Most* of them are, but not all of them.

I know for sure that the '95's are different.
I *think* '96's carried over the '95 connector. ( I have never worked on or owned a '96.)

I am positive that '98-'99's are the same as 2nd gen.
I believe the '97's are as well.

For the record, I installed a PT Cruiser N/A alternator in my '98 - It bolted up and plugged in, like it grew there. :thumbup:


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:05 am

95-97 have one plug style. 97.5-2005 Have the other style.

Also have a p/t N/A alternator on my 2.4 swap.
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Nitefuru360
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Post by Nitefuru360 » Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:48 pm

you may want to consider buying a custom alt from mechman or dc alts im pretty sure you can get a 150 amp alt for almost the price of a new oem pt alt my 250 mechman wasnt all that much which gauge did you use for your big 3? id use at least 4 awg ofc or 0 idk which head lights you have but if you switch to a more efficent bulb like jids or leds that should help with dimming

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:02 pm

heydockyle wrote:95-97 have one plug style. 97.5-2005 Have the other style.

Also have a p/t N/A alternator on my 2.4 swap.

The 56029701AB Turbo Alternator does not use the N/A alternator connector.

The GT PT connector is PN 5019925AA $48.70

The N/A 97.5 - '05 connector is 5017120AA $26.60
The 2.4 N/A is the same connector as the 2.0

The SRT connector is not serviced, but the GT PT connector should work. The SRT is Lt gray, the GT PT is black.

Image

So if you should damage your SRT field control connector, specify a Turbo PT connector at the dealer, or when they look it up they are going to tell you it is not available. Remember, not all parts ppl are gonna be smart enough, or care enough to go "Gee maybe we should look up a PT connector...

Of course the connector parts look up does not give an illustration of the connectors, so that does not help matters....

Edit:

5019925AA also is the PN for the door ajar sense connectors. Possibly others? These are not necessarily in the doors but in the B and C pillars. B pillar passenger side, and C pillar driver side.

It is also used on the '99 to ? Durango/Dakota/Ram/Ram Van alternators. So there are plenty of JY options.

I re soldered leads onto mine. Cheaper/faster than going to a JY.

$50 for a little connector is pushing it. Especially when it has less parts than the other alternator connector, and is a simpler design. Certainly not manufacturing costs, I would hope.
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