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trunk release

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:21 pm
by 05SEblue
Is my 05 se wired for it? I know its a base model, but i am quickly learning how much of a pain in the ass it is not having a button inside, i thought that was a standard thing. What all would i need for a swap?

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:47 pm
by occasional demons
IDK about '05, but my '01 was not wired.

You would need the latch, and a momentary ON switch (button), and about 15 feet of wire.

Then you need to install the switch were you want it, and run a wire to the rear of the car. I ran mine under the sill plates along the driver side. Then around the rear seat. once in the trunk, you need to feed the wire though the black convoluted tubing to the latch.

Since the button I used is not rated for a lot of amps, I also wired in a relay that I mounted behind the kick panel.

I installed the button above the hood release, so I don't have to reach across the interior to open the trunk when I am not in the car. Just open the door, and reach down.

The way I see it, if they break into the car, what good is the added security of the button locked in the glove box, when all they need to do is fold down the rear seat?

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:10 pm
by 05SEblue
that doesn't sound to difficult at all. did you use an oem latch?

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:12 pm
by occasional demons
Yes. I got a used one from a member on here.

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:13 pm
by 05SEblue
alright. where did you get your switch? what guage wire? sorry about all the questions

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:17 pm
by steamer1227
You could get the button out of a junkyard. When i was there the other day i noticed that a lot of Chrysler cars had the same switch. Im not sure how much they would cost new. But couldn't be that much.

Here is a link to a sale for the buttons and latch I seen on here

viewtopic.php?t=49150

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:25 pm
by 05SEblue
yep. I saw that. I'm gonna pm him

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:30 pm
by occasional demons
I just used a button that I removed from something I scrapped at work. For the wire, 18 gauge will work fine.

Part Number: 4760847AC Trunk - Lock switch $5.80

Part Number: 5008632AD Trunk Lock, neon, w/electric release $117.00

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:37 pm
by 05SEblue
okay sweet i'll check into it thanks :thumbup:

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:41 pm
by non-magnum
I used to have same problem the guy ended up throwing relay when he did the alarm/remote start and now i can pop it open from the remote

Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:50 am
by RayWolf
i asked this same question cause my 00 is not wired for it but i have the electric lock on my trunk now.
and i did not get this much details from OD
do you really need to run a relay?

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:51 am
by non-magnum
yeah you do need a relay for the switch

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:18 pm
by occasional demons
Looking at the wiring diagram, the oem wiring has the relay integral to the RKE module. So I guess that means the only cars that have the deck lid release are RKE equipped cars. (release button on key fob)

So, I guess I assumed correctly that a relay would be a good idea.

viewtopic.php?t=38849

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:29 pm
by unc-newbie
What did you use for your 12 volt source?

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:34 pm
by occasional demons
Damn man, I'm old, I don't recall exactly :roll:, but I think I tied into the fuse box above the hood release, since that's where I mounted the switch/relay. I can look later to see if I can tell. It is raining here, so it may not be today, as I will have to pull the fuse box out to see.

Or I may just pull the whole kick panel, and take a pic of how I did it.

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 1:16 pm
by blueneo03
for mine i did a wire from the battery from the fuse box.. put a fuse in line and ran it from there to the proper spots.. pretty simple...

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:54 pm
by unc-newbie
That will work. I am going to put mine into the same spot, right by the hood release. I mean it makes more sense to have it there. I wasn't too sure if the same 12v pink/black wire that goes into the wiring harness for the cluster was right at or close to the fuse box.

I got to fix my taillights right now anyways. I put new ones in and we got a good rain the last couple of days and I noticed my carpet being a little wet when I was running the wire for the trunk release in through the trunk. So I am drying it out real quick and will try and seal it up pretty good to stop the leak.

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:57 pm
by Midnight_Rider
occasional demons wrote:I installed the button above the hood release, so I don't have to reach across the interior to open the trunk when I am not in the car. Just open the door, and reach down.

The way I see it, if they break into the car, what good is the added security of the button locked in the glove box, when all they need to do is fold down the rear seat?
I'm late to this thread. I agree about the back seat access- why didn't DCX have locks on the seatbacks? Even my parent's old Acclaim had them. :tardbang:

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:55 pm
by unc-newbie
Here are some pics of my fuse panel, (looking for my tester now to see which is a constant 12v source), didn't know if anyone knew right away.

Image

Image

I was thinking of using the radio but my radio only comes on when the car is turned on, it is an Alpine IVA-D106. Didn't know if that would be the best one to use for my trunk release or not.

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:12 pm
by unc-newbie
Ok This is where I am at. I hooked all the wires up and with my tester found a power source. I don't know if it is 12v or not. I then hooked the wire up to it and pushed the trunk release button. i heard the selenoid engage in the trunk but it did not pop up.

The source I hooked up to was fuse 15 which is 15A and says its for:
Panel
Illum
HD-LP
Switch

Does anyone have any ideas?

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:28 pm
by occasional demons
Fuse positions 13 through 16 are fused B(+). If you can get a spare connector from another fuse box, you can slide it into an empty spot on that line of positions, if there isn't a contact in 13.14, or 16 to install a fuse in one of those Then you will just need some standard slide contacts from a fog light kit w/e to slide into the unused relay slots, and use a standard relay in there to run the power to the solenoid. The switch will connect to the relay coil. This way all the wiring is hidden, and it has a clean oem look.

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:29 pm
by unc-newbie
Just another update. I had my daughter pull on the trunk after i hit the button and it wouldn't open. Then I hit the trunk release button a couple of times and she pulled softly each time and finally the trunk came up. Just wanted to get you another update with what I did.

Don't know if anyone has any ideas or not...?

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:38 pm
by unc-newbie
I can see that in some slots there seems to be a connector with no wire and in others they don't have anything at all.

What does a spare connector look like?

How can I tell if there is a contact in 13, 14 or 16?

The only other questions I have is the trunk release button pigtail and the pigtail for the selenoid that I have, have 2 wires coming out of them. One is a solid color and the other is a 2-color wire. Was wondering which one was the ground and which was the hot wire?

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:54 pm
by occasional demons
In 13 through 16, there is going to be a hot connector on one side. There is a bar that connects them, that you can see on the back. I don't remember if it is a standard slide terminal or not. If so, you only need to get a regular uninsulated slide terminal, and crimp the need length of wire to it, and slide it into the back of the fuse block. So that a fuse will connect the added terminal to the hot terminal.

Image

(The female one on the left)

These will work in the relay sockets in the lower part, that much I do know.
................................................................
EDIT:
Or they are this style:
Image

Image
...................................................................................
Solenoid wiring:
The black wire goes to ground (-), the LG/BK wire goes to the relay output. (+)

Most of the time, a solid black will go to ground, for automotive wiring. (DC Volts)

Industrial/household it is the hot. (AC Volts) Makes a lot of sense...

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:07 pm
by gtxtreme19
Alright im going to do this today so what your saying is run a constant 12v from the fuse box to the push button and then from the button to the solenoid?

Also for anyone doing this with rke I got this from Dante
Danteneon wrote:No problem :D

If you are trying to just add the power latch, then it can be wired pretty esay. But if you are trying to add a remote entry or security system, that will be a lot harder.

The trunk lid latch is intergrated into the RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) system. Both the with and without alarm systems are it seems. These diagrams may not help all that much unless you are adding this system, but at least you can see how everything is run and what circuits do what.

Image

Image
DECKLID RELEASE SWITCH (POWER RELEASE) - BLACK 2 WAY
CAV....CIRCUIT...........FUNCTION
1........Q33 18BR/LB....DECKLID RELEASE RELAY CONTROL
2........Z1 18BK............GROUND

Image
DECKLID SECURITY SWITCH (KNOCK OUT) - GRAY 2 WAY
CAV....CIRCUIT............FUNCTION
1........Z1 18BK............GROUND
2........G71 20VT/YL......DECKLID SECURITY SWITCH SENSE

Image
C302 - BLACK 6 WAY (DECKLID SIDE)
CAV....CIRCUIT............FUCTION
1.........L50 20WT/TN...BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2.........Z1 14BK...........GROUND
3.........G78 18TN/BK....CARGO LAMP
4.........G71 20VT/YL.....DECKLID SECURITY SWITCH SENSE
5 -
6.........Q2 14LG/BK......DECKLID SOLENOID

Image
C302 - BLACK 6 WAY (UNIBODY SIDE)
CAV.....CIRCUIT...........FUCTION
1.........L50 20WT/TN...BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2.........Z1 14BK...........GROUND
3.........G78 22TN/BK...CARGO LAMP
4.........G71 20VT/YL....DECKLID SECURITY SWITCH SENSE
5 -
6.........Q2 14LG/BK.....DECKLID SOLENOID


I think that covers the system. Laid out like this it may seem overwhelming, but it isn't really that bad. Let me know if you have any questions.
All hail pinout king Dante


PS I understand this but am trying to find the easiest way to do it without the rke I just hate using my key every time

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:38 pm
by Danteneon
:king:

Glad to help!

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:21 pm
by occasional demons
It would be way too much trouble, unless you wanted RKE, and I think an aftermarket setup would be easier to do than the factory.

All you need is a relay controlled by the button (momentary on switch), and the solenoid wired through the switched relay contacts.

Just like wiring fog lights, except you have a switch that doesn't latch (stay on) and the solenoid is the lights.

I hope that makes it a bit more clear.

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 6:49 pm
by gtxtreme19
OK im still lost, I have an in line fuse lying around from a stereo install I did.
Instead of a relay could I wire that in before the button?
Also how does the button get wired in? I realize its a simple circuit a positive and a ground but shouldn't there be power to the button and from the button to the solenoid?
I guess I am just lost I have a blue/black and black on the button. And a green/black and a black wire on the solenoid but along with the little black wire that's on all of the trunk latch releases

Maybe im trying to make it more complex than it is or maybe not complex enough...
Help please

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:32 pm
by occasional demons
OK, this is as basic as it gets...

Image

The fuse, you can tie into the fuse box, like suggested.

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:08 pm
by unc-newbie
Thank you, Occasional demons, for the detailed drawings. I followed them to a tee and my trunk release is now functional.