2GN.ORG

but but i only have a for chan brigable amp thats only 800 watts maxx

ok i see where ur going. well if u want the cheap way out and u r gonna use ur 4 channel amp then i would say get something in ur price range with an rms rating the same as ur amp.remember the amp will only work on a four ohm sub when bridged so keep that in mind.

if u wanna do it right u need to save up and get the right stuff.


2 subs
a mono amp or at least a 2 channel
not a fan of sony but to each his own.
worry about the alt and batt after.

up to you. u could grab a w0 or w1 jl audio. it will sound nice with low poewer in the right box.

it brigable at 2 ohms...stable 4 ohms max its a 4 3 2 one chan very good amp for only 150 dollars brand new

wouldnt the infinity kappa sound good tho since its got low rms and i already have all infinity kappa speakers in my car?

i see that alpine has come out with the new type r they are smaller... and better

any one hear them play?

compair it to the infinity kappa 120.9w please =)

the amp may be 2ohm stble per channel but not bridged. it will play 4ohms bridged. if u bridge 2channels and run a 2ohm sub the amp will overheat and shut off or even worse blow the ic chips

ohhh

shud i just get the new alpine type r the redesigned one couldnt i run the amp on two chan mono mode and put both channs into the type r?

u could buy i wouldnt recomend it.

u need to get a 4ohm sub. or if u reall wanna do mutiple subs make sure the total ohms is 4.

wait wait wiat...

this bridging and parelle shit is confussing i have noooo idea what your are tlkaing about

im confussed at the part where 2 ohms is more effeciant but 4 ohms plays louder yet cuts the watts in half

now what sub is better sinlge voice ciol 2 ohm or 4 or dvc 2 ohm or 4 ohm


and my amp is 432 chan i can run 2 mono chans at like 200 watts rms

could i just plug both in to a new type r since it has two neg and two positive inputs on the sub?

i woulndt recomend it. u will have 2 diiferent levels of power going to each coil. unless u know how to test the output u may make one coil hotter than the other snd risk blowing that coil


really doesnt matter the ohms or single or dual.its there for the flexibility if u are going to run multiple subs etc. one is not gonna be louder than the other. it depends on ur setup.

in ur case cheapest way out to get bass is to run lets say a 10in 4ohm sub off of channels 3 and 4 on ur amp and channels 1 and 2 will hook up to ur 6x9s. thats the easiest way to explain it to you.

so then i could get the apline type r and run chans 1 and 2 into it to power it? but it would have to be 4 ohms

yea 1 and 2 bridged together. 3 and 4 will go to ur 6x9s if its easier im gonna pm u my phone number if u wanna text me. trying to type this on my phone stinks lol

okay hmm i want to get this figured out...

i want one sub ether inifinit kappa 120.9w or alpine type r

i only have a 4 chan brigable amp. min impedence at bridge is 4 ohms... none briged 2 ohms...

wat ohm sub shud i get?

how would i wire it?

ok nvm nvm i got it now

but that would only be 200 watts rms going into a 500 watts rms sub

would that be okay would it sound okay?
would it be okay for the amp and sub?

like i said it will be fine until u get the right amp for it.

having less power going to the sub is better than more lol.just be sure not to distort the crap out of the sub or u will blow it

how would i distort it?

if you max out the amp it will end up distorting the sound. If you hear the sub sound funny then you know to turn the gain down on the amp.

ohhh alright . thanks

Didn't want to start a new thread, so I'll just bump this one...

Alright, so I had the battery changed out today. Figured that it's been 5 years on the car, wouldn't hurt to get a new one and make it last. Now, the voltmeter in my car still jumps around. Would a new UDP and/or ODP help? Just a new alternator? Is there anywhere that sells 'fairly new' alternators for the Neons, or is that something I'll have to find at junkyards nowadays? Just trying to regulate the volts in my car. Car had trouble starting this morning, until I gave it some gas. This was before the battery change.

Thanks for the help.

UDP will not help. UDP will lower the voltage.

ODP will help, but won't do much if the alternator is about to shit the bed. I thought you already changed the alternator?

heydockyle wrote:UDP will not help. UDP will lower the voltage.

ODP will help, but won't do much if the alternator is about to shit the bed. I thought you already changed the alternator?

Ya, but I got one from the junkyard. And it didn't solve the problem.

Is there a downside to getting an ODP?

An UDP will only lower voltage at idle. Once the alternator reaches it's full charging RPM the voltage will remain the same as before.

Check all your connections, the fusible link near the starter, connections at the starter. The PCM regulates voltage. If the connections are bad, it might be going bezerk attempting to stabilize the voltage. Or you just got a bad alternator. I would go over all the connections/grounds, and have the alternator checked, then go from there.

Hate me for this question, but I don't think I've ever really seen a starter... as in, I don't know what it looks like or where it's at in the Neon.

I do believe I had the alternator checked before and it was testing fine. May go back for another test, but if that comes out fine and I just got a new battery yesterday, then yea... it's probably a connection somewhere. Thanks

What about that "big 5" ground kit or whatever that people get for the engine bay ground wires? Would that possibly be a problem, or would it do anything if I upgraded? I don't have a system or anything that pulls massive amounts of power.

Thanks again.

That would only help if you had a problem with one of those 5 grounds, and changing them fixed it.

I will take a picture of a starter on the car soon. It's directly behind like the middle of the radiator.
Radiator is out of my gf's car so I'll get a pic.



And Frank you are right, but that still won't help him out any.

Alright. I know I started a thread similar to this before I deployed last December, so I apologize for bringing this crap up again. Been having this problem with my Voltmeter bouncing all over the place in the gauge for a while. Every now and then, the car will not start or have problems starting. It's kinda random when it decides to do this.

I do appreciate all the help though. Thanks guys.

Due to trial and error I can 100% confirm that the pt Turbo alternator is not compatible with the neon. The mounting points are too far apart and the connector is different.

I will have a pt na unit to install in the morning and I will post up the results. Also as we know brr has the na pt alternator on his. His is an 02 unit and I ordered an 04 unit which should be identical but we will see...

NiteHawk wrote:Due to trial and error I can 100% confirm that the pt Turbo alternator is not compatible with the neon. The mounting points are too far apart and the connector is different.

I will have a pt na unit to install in the morning and I will post up the results. Also as we know brr has the na pt alternator on his. His is an 02 unit and I ordered an 04 unit which should be identical but we will see...

Where did you get yours? Because if I'm going to replace the alternator [again], I don't want to get it from a junkyard.

Thanks.

EDIT: Didn't see Matt's post.

I got mine from advance auto parts. Any parts store can get you a pt NA although though

NiteHawk wrote:I got mine from advance auto parts. Any parts store can get you a pt NA although though

I'll have to check that out. Because I do need a new one, I believe. Gotta see where I can get it installed though, for cheap... I've done it once myself, and that's sucha PITA. lawl...

Thanks though.