installing a ho alternator really give me h.o?

[thisdieingdream1]

i would like to run a couple more amplifiers in my car for my system that im working on.

most of you have already seen my set up i have now. i just ordered the infinity kappa 120.9w subwoofer and is on its way now.

the amplifier that i have is a four channel 800 wat 4/3/2 bridgable amp. it is a very good amp and no bigger then a piece of paper. i plan on geting more of these amps. my guess 3 or 4. its the pioneer gmd9500f

my problem is that i have an 85 amp alternator. just a couple of weeks ago i was one of those kids who thinks you can just add amplifers and subs and speakers in your car and not worry with anything else. i soon found out that you have to upgrade your wire (the big 3) as well and your alternator and batt.

i found out that a pt cruiser alternator will work on my car and is rated at 120 amps. but the thing is just one of my amplifiers for my system is rated with a 40 amp fuse. so 40 times 4 or even if i wanted to go the real way with spl compitions 6. thats 320 amps.

but for right now im only going to have 2. so thats 80 possible amps being drawn from the alternator.

i know where to get the alternator. i know how to upgrade the big three (kinda) and about the yellow top battrey.

but installing a bigger output alternator, would my pcm allow this. or will it regulate the current making the 120 seem like a 85 amp alt.

if i get 2 or 3 amplifiers going will the pcm allow the alternator to produce the amps i need?

[heydockyle]

Yes

Why not just post this in the thread you already had open?

[ZeroChad]

The PCM regulates the alternator based upon battery voltage. The alternator is 120A, so if your 2-3 amplifiers draw less than that, you'll be great. The only way to truely check if the alternator is performing is to take it to a shop or install an Ampmeter inline between it and the positive battery terminal!

[occasional demons]

The PCM regulates the alternator based upon battery voltage.

Or to put it another way, the PCM is going to let it produce as many amps as it takes to maintain it's target voltage. As the load draws the voltage down, the regulator will up the amperage to restore the voltage. This generally happens in milliseconds, but if the load is sudden/large enough you will notice the fluctuations.

It is only going to put out as much amperage as it needs. If the amperage requirement is only 30 amps, with a 120 amp alternator, you have 90 amps in reserve. But it also needs to be spinning fast enough to generate the needed amperage.

It is just like your ignition coil. It will only produce (within it's means), a spark that will ignite the current mixture/load demands. A coil rated at 40,000 volts will not put out 40,000 volts each time it is firing. Unless the conditions demand it.

[thisdieingdream1]

I had asked OB this question, he said to post a thread.

okay i know nothing about this stuff so please help me out.

im sorry i ask all these questions!

if i wanted to run a 160 amp load on my system what all do i really need to do?

i mean i know i need a yellow top. somone said about geting two maybe. and i know i need a higher output alternator. so ill be geting the 120 amp alt soon. and upgrading the big 3

but if i do add an additional 2 amps to the 1 i already have that would mean i have a potenial to demand 120 amps from my electrical system that can only produce that much.

and after 3 ill prolly add another 1. giving me a total of 160 amp load.

would a yellow top or 2, and a 120 amp alternator be powerful enough?

and another reason im confussed is because i have talked to many people that know about amplifiers and they have told me there is no way that id ever be able to make that amp draw a full 40 amps.

so i dont know haha this is all confussing. but i want to learn.

[Mr Josh Zombie]

Honestly, if you want better/faster answers, I'd go check out a car audio specific forum. We all know neons here quite well, but not audio specifically. Only a small handful of members are into that.

[thisdieingdream1]

oh alright. i dont know of any though. but ill search.

i thought some of you guys would be.

i am geting some good answers though.

[occasional demons]

if i wanted to run a 160 amp load on my system what all do i really need to do?

If you need 160 amps, you should get at least a 200 amp alternator, or find a way to run two alternators. This would assume a constant/near constant load at 160 amps. Probably not going to be the case tho.

If you run multiple batteries, they will give you the amps needed, as long as it is in short durations. The alternator will still be maxed out for those brief moments tho. If you run your system maxed out for a long time, your battery(s) will be drained. And possibly the alternator will overheat.

Like Josh said, a dedicated audio forum might be a place to search through for a few weeks to find your answers. As for me personally, I never got into high end audio, but I have given you the basics of what will happen under the load on the elecrical system.

[thisdieingdream1]

alright thanks

but where in the hell would i find a 200 amp alt?

it took me months to find out a pt cruiser alt will fit my neon lol

and yes i have seached many times and many websites and have not found a 200 or + alternator.

so if any of you guys know of one or a brand who makes it let me know please!!!!

[ZeroChad]

Your looking at a custom wound alternator.

[heydockyle]

Unless you are doing audio shows, why do you need 3 big amps?

[thisdieingdream1]

i currently have

3 1/2 infinity kappa 2 ways 65 rms 110 max

6 1/2 infinity kappa 3 ways 85 rms 225 max

6 x 9 infinity kappa 3 ways 110 rms 330 max

powered by a Pioneer GM-D9500F 4/3/2 chan bridgable 800 watt max amplifier that is rated with a 40 amp fuse

i was going to get the infinity kappa for but thats rated with a 60 amp fuse. (2 x 30) that is 1200 watt max

i plan on adding 2 more 6 1/2 3 ways and 6x9 3 ways

i have a infinity kappa 120.9w sub in shipment right now. 350 rms 1400 max

and plan on geting 3 more.

if my buddy hooks me up (he does fiber glass work) ill have 6 to 8 12s in about a year or so lol

all in a lil tiny neon
=)

[occasional demons]

You're going to shoot your eye out with all that SPL!

[thisdieingdream1]

it wouldnt make that much spl only sql i think....lol

and where could i go to get a custom wound alternator?
and to see how much this would cost.

i pmd a few people and asked them about it since i saw they brought it up in a thread a while back about a 200 amp alt. but there like 600 dollars... =( now i know no one likes paying alot of money for things...every one is cheap. enless your so rich you use bills to keep your fire place going

[gtxtreme19]

Didn't you just have a thread about wanting more power? Ill tell you right now this much audio equipment isn't going to help that!

Getting a custom wound alt is going to cost the big bucks too! Probably about the same as buying the one you have found for 600$.
Good equipment cost good money no matter what your going for,speed, looks, sound its all money

[thisdieingdream1]

i know... i all want to do is put an exhaust on my car and rims ... maybe a few other mods to get it going a little faster.

if i want a reallly fast car ill get one. or later on do a engine swap.

but for now. im going for all looks and sound.

i know all good things cost money. and i only want the best of the best going into and on my car.
i just hate saving up money to buy something. i have NO patients. haha

it woudl be AWSOME if i had a 2nd job. because i could make things come and go faster.

anyways. so 200 + amp alt or custom one is 600dollars

i guess there is no cheaper way to do this. or is there. some one had said about dual alternators. or a 120 amp alt and 2 yellow tops....

[Mr Josh Zombie]

put it this way. i spent $1,200 to put a -basic- system in my xB. shit gets expensive fast. gotta pay to play

[gilly02le]

6x12's?? not a chance your going to get SQ outta that setup.


Amps make all the difference in the world. You definitely get what you pay for. Cheap amps will claim rediculus power outputs, while never living up to them. If the amp doesn't come with a chart listing its power output(birth-sheet), it doesn't come anything close to what it says. A 400Wrms pioneer amp drawing 40amps, Won't happen.

[heydockyle]

I personally think you are going to waste all this time and money on this and regret it.

I have kicker door speakers and kicker 6x9's with two kicker 12's. The kicker 12's are being run off a big Alpine M1000, and the rest are being run off radio.

I'm going to buy another amp to power the mid's and highs, and call it a day. Sound quality right now is definitely good enough for every day use, and to show off to any of my buddies and out do their shit.



Just remember this is usually true; Quality over Quantity.

[OB]

I'll just throw something out there real quick. Just because an amp is FUSED at 40 amps, that does not mean it draws that kind of current. The fuse is there in case of a short to ground, which would lead to a spike, popping the fuse and thus keeping the amp and electrical system from lighting on fire and melting.

What you need to look at is RMS draw, which is how much current the amp draws during normal operation. I'd bet it is closer to half of 40. Remember, an amp's sole purpose is to make a small amount of current generate a large amount of power (hence the name AMPLIFIER).

As someone mentioned earlier, adding all this weight is going to make your car VERY slow. These cars are very sensitive to weight. Adding even 200 lbs makes them accelerate noticeably worse. You have what looks to be more than twice that weight in planned equipment, so prepare to lose races to bicycles, dogs, and maybe even people walking.

Oh and another thing, as small as a Neon is, one good 12" sub and amp combo along with proper wiring and a quality headunit will sound fantastic. Your plans sound like a competition setup. You sure have big aspirations for someone who doesn't know much about audio/electronics.

[Ntyvirus1]

i know... i all want to do is put an exhaust on my car and rims ... maybe a few other mods to get it going a little faster.

if i want a reallly fast car ill get one. or later on do a engine swap.

but for now. im going for all looks and sound.

i know all good things cost money. and i only want the best of the best going into and on my car.
i just hate saving up money to buy something. i have NO patients. haha

it woudl be AWSOME if i had a 2nd job. because i could make things come and go faster.

anyways. so 200 + amp alt or custom one is 600dollars

i guess there is no cheaper way to do this. or is there. some one had said about dual alternators. or a 120 amp alt and 2 yellow tops....

there is damn near no way to get your car goin faster if u have all those subs in your car short of boost or an engine swap. hope u know what you're doing.

[ZeroChad]

I agree with OB, I had a 250Wrms 12" RF woofer in my car. It was more than adequate. I wasn't trying to shake windows, but it added a perfect amount of bass to songs, with some to spare.

[thisdieingdream1]

the 6 subs is farrr away from now...

so you guys think id be alright with just the stock alt and batt with a new amp that is fused at 2 x 30? (60 amps)

i wanted to get that infinity kappa four amp but didnt becuase of the amount that it was fused at so i got a smaller amp.

the amp i have now i got off ebay new for 170 and is only 800 watts max. and is cea rated. the infinity kappa four witch i did have money for at teh time was 350 dollars and is 1200 watts max and is also cea rated

[Mr Josh Zombie]

watts don't mean shit

what's the RMS

[thisdieingdream1]

rms watts of my amp i have now is

RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 chan

the infinity kappa four amp is

RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 300 watts x 2 chan.

first amp off of sonicelectronix is 170 dollars
second amp is 450 dollars


and wait a minute. that infinity kappa four is rated with 2 40 AMP FUSES holy shit... =(

those amps pull alot!

i guess i made a good choice in geting the smaller amp instead of the kappa four huh?

[nineball]

maybe this will shed a little light on it for you.

i have a stinger spv44 under the hood, kinetik hc600 in the trunk, big 6 (there are 6 wires needed in a neon not 3) in 0g, 120a alt, dual runs (+ and -) 0g to the trunk, pdx 4.100 (2x35 fuses), pdx 1.1000 (4x25 fuses), spx-177r comps, single type-x 12" in 2.5cf tuned to 35Hz. with all that i still get dimming at 28/35 (31/35 is clipping) on the hu at night with the lights on and a large bass note hitting. when i want to wail on it i can make the cars around me vibrate but for normal listening the sq is excellent.

max power don't mean shit

what's the RMS

fixed

[Mr Josh Zombie]

Yes, that is worded better that way. good fix

[FAC3L3SS]

If I can stick my non-audio mind in here, I'll say this. I've got the Kicker system from the Livin' Loud package in my car. Except I didn't run the stock amp/sub, I ran some Insignia and an Infinity amp. With some cheapo aftermarket unit, Kicker component system, and 1 10" sub built into the floor / spare tire area, the sound was crisp, no matter how loud I hate it. I outdid my buddies in volume and quality, no matter how high I did it. A nice sub and amp, and having it all tuned in properly works wonders. I no longer have the sub / amp, but it's plenty loud and crisp.

Just sayin'. From a DD POV.

[thisdieingdream1]

""i have a stinger spv44 under the hood, kinetik hc600 in the trunk, big 6 (there are 6 wires needed in a neon not 3) in 0g, 120a alt, dual runs (+ and -) 0g to the trunk, pdx 4.100 (2x35 fuses), pdx 1.1000 (4x25 fuses), spx-177r comps, single type-x 12" in 2.5cf tuned to 35Hz. with all that i still get dimming at 28/35 (31/35 is clipping) on the hu at night with the lights on and a large bass note hitting. when i want to wail on it i can make the cars around me vibrate but for normal listening the sq is excellent.""


so if i do your wire set up and batterys as well as alternator ill be fine?

whats a stinger spv44?

kinetik batts i know what tehy are and the 120 amp alt...

dual runs though? whats that?

and 6 wires?! hmm what all are they called if you dont mind me asking...

id love to know how you wired all of this ... not the subs or amps... just the batts and alts. and alts to batteries.

(found out what the spv44 was... its a 660 amp battery.) i guess with pretty damn good recharging and all that.

[Caraudioholic24]

I answered a few of your questions in your last post.

Hope you are getting the answers you need. I pmed you my phone number if you need more help