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Problem

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 9:29 am
by C1DoG
It started lastnight. I had my leds and the one neon on showing them off. So I went to start it and it wouldn't. Yeah I know I killed the battery, or so we thought. Was able to jump the car and drive it home. Got home, turned the car off. Battery should have had enough charge to restart after driving it a little over 30 minutes.... But nope, it just clicks. Would that be the alternator or a crappy battery? And with all the stuff I have, I would like to get a higher output alternator. Any suggestions on one?

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:06 am
by occasional demons
My guess would be the battery, or the terminals/connections/grounds. If the alternator was dead, it would not have ran to make it home.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:08 am
by C1DoG
occasional demons wrote:My guess would be the battery, or the terminals/connections/grounds. If the alternator was dead, it would not have ran to make it home.
Yeah we figure it is the battery. I am looking at getting an Optima redtop battery. Any remarks on them, good or bad? I am also thinking on getting a higher amp alternator.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:21 am
by nineball
years ago i swore by optimas but not any longer. their build quality has steadily declined over the past 5-10 years. i'm running a stinger spv44 which is almost exactly the same size as the stock battery. i've been very happy with it's performance for the past 2 years.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop ... leBaseFeed

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:37 am
by Adam G
takes forever to recharge a dead battery while driving the car

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:44 am
by C1DoG
Would a higher output alternator recharge the battery quicker?

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:08 am
by occasional demons
An alternator is the worst way to recharge a battery. Slower is better.

Alternators are primarily designed to recoup the drain from starting, and running the electrical needs of the car.

The best, tho prolly seldom used method of recharging a dead/severely discharged battery, is a good battery charger. AGM batteries should be charged with a charger dedicated/compatible to AGM batteries.

But then we don't live in a perfect world.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:12 am
by C1DoG
Cool thanks. I will go next door and borrow the neighbors charger. :)

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:40 am
by occasional demons
Yeah, give it a good 8 hour trickle charge. If it is still dead after that, it is new battery time. If you have a meter, check the battery voltage to verify it is the battery, and not the connections.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:15 pm
by C1DoG
I will charge it overnight and then see tomorrow morning whether or not it is the battery.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:34 am
by C1DoG
Well.... I charged it for 8 hours and went to start it this morning and it did the same thing. All it did was click and that was it. No turning over at all.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:53 am
by occasional demons
Did you check the voltage? Since you didn't mention other things not working when the key is turned, turn the lights on when attempting to crank it. If they go out when the key is turned, it is prolly the battery, assuming the connections are all good. If they stay bright, it could be the starter. Jumping it may have been enough to make it go, or a coincidence. Just trying to cover all the bases before you spend $ on a battery you might not need.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:06 am
by C1DoG
The lights inside flicker when I try to start it.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:17 am
by occasional demons
Do they stay out as long as the starter is held in?

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:21 am
by C1DoG
When I turn the key it clicks and the lights flicker. I am not that knowledable about these things as you can tell. lol As long as I have the key turned and trying to start it, it clicks and flickers with each click.

Edit: I just used the voltage tester and after charging the batter again. It went down to 50% power after charging. So more than likely it is the battery.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:32 am
by occasional demons
Yep.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:42 am
by theColonel
If there's an Auto Zone near you, take the battery there. The one near my house will charge the battery and test it for free. I've had great luck with all the batteries I bought from them
(lasted as long as I owned the cars), but some of my neighbors have been very satisfied on how they "pro rated" batteries that crapped-out during the warranty period. Not every battery
they tested had to be replaced ... in some cases I had other problems that had to be fixed by the Dodge dealer.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:13 am
by C1DoG
Took out the battery and got it tested. And lo and behold, it needed replacing. We know that battery has been in the car since we got it 2 and a half years ago. So it was time for it to be replaced. So now I have a working neon again. :twisted:

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:25 am
by theColonel
C1DoG wrote:Took out the battery and got it tested. And lo and behold, it needed replacing. We know that battery has been in the car since we got it 2 and a half years ago. So it was time for it to be replaced.
So now I have a working neon again. :twisted:
:thumbup: Aren't you glad you don't own a Priu$ ?

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:39 am
by C1DoG
theColonel wrote:
C1DoG wrote:Took out the battery and got it tested. And lo and behold, it needed replacing. We know that battery has been in the car since we got it 2 and a half years ago. So it was time for it to be replaced.
So now I have a working neon again. :twisted:
:thumbup: Aren't you glad you don't own a Priu$ ?

OH YEAH!!! :rofl:

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:56 pm
by C1DoG
And now I have another problem... is there a fuse to the tach? It starts fine, but now it doesn't show rpm's like it did. Help please.


Edit: problem fixed, I found out how to reset the tach. :thumbup:

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:52 pm
by Public Disturbance
C1DoG wrote:Yeah we figure it is the battery. I am looking at getting an Optima redtop battery. Any remarks on them, good or bad? I am also thinking on getting a higher amp alternator.

I had a Optima and hated the thing I ordered one of these and its sleek and offers good power its for the SRT4 but I have had no problems on my SE

http://www.modernperformance.com/lightw ... -2069.html

just a idea

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:07 pm
by C1DoG
If I had that much to spend at the moment. Most of my car fund comes from savings whenever I have enough saved in it.

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:45 pm
by theColonel
Public Disturbance wrote: I had a Optima and hated the thing I ordered one of these and its sleek and offers good power its for the SRT4 but I have had no problems on my SE

http://www.modernperformance.com/lightw ... -2069.html

just a idea
I put one in my SRT-4 because I needed more room after changing to the Hahn CoolRam intake ... no problems, even though the battery looks like it belongs in a riding lawnmower :rofl: :rofl:

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:33 pm
by nineball
Public Disturbance wrote:I had a Optima and hated the thing I ordered one of these and its sleek and offers good power its for the SRT4 but I have had no problems on my SE

http://www.modernperformance.com/lightw ... -2069.html

just a idea

damn. that's a straight ripoff. that is essentially the same thing as a kinetik kc600 (which can be had for $65 shipped) and a tiedown kit (under $15 at any auto parts store).

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:49 pm
by Public Disturbance
nineball wrote:
Public Disturbance wrote:I had a Optima and hated the thing I ordered one of these and its sleek and offers good power its for the SRT4 but I have had no problems on my SE

http://www.modernperformance.com/lightw ... -2069.html

just a idea

damn. that's a straight ripoff. that is essentially the same thing as a kinetik kc600 (which can be had for $65 shipped) and a tiedown kit (under $15 at any auto parts store).

But the tray looks pretty so it makes it ok