How To: Get a good paint job!

Hudson_Neon · Post by **Hudson_Neon** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 1:06 pm

i work in a body shop so here...

1.sense they've already got a clear coat on them, all you need to do is take a medium roughness scotch brite to the whole thing, just enough to knock down the shine

2.then degrease and tack them off with a tack rag (like $1.50 at a paint store)

3.spray your sealer down, i believe that you need a grey sealer

4.spray your paint, let sit for 10-15 min between coats, retack between coats (with a new tack cloth for best results)

5.tack one final time and then spray your clear with 10-15 min between coats, 2-3 coats (perferably a high volocity clear, sense they're rockers) (DO NOT TACK THE CLEAR!)

give it a day to dry

in the end the quality of the job comes back to how confident you are in doin the job

dutch animal · Post by **dutch animal** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:31 pm

little mark on this how too :

i own a pgr green neon.

when i painted the front i used a grey primer.
but the colour was pretty different from the original.

1:the rear i did different, first sanded it down till the shine comes of.

2:then put filler on 2 layers ( for littel scratches ect )

3:sand down till smood.

4:put the primer on, tack of.

5:put black paint on .. sand down.

6:put base cote on pgr in my case.
3 or three layers , tacked between layers.

7:then clear 2 3 layers ( first a thin layer for stickyness )

the second result ... dead on matches the colour on the car.

so beware what colour primer you use .. it wil show on your end result !

Hudson_Neon · Post by **Hudson_Neon** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:49 pm

Shouldn't play that big of a role if you cover properly. Some colors just take a little more.

dutch animal · Post by **dutch animal** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:45 pm

ok ... pretty much right about that one ...
with 5 or 6 layers of base cote ... you'll get it right at the end.

but 1 layer black is cheaper ( spray can in my case ) then the layers of base cote. ( hvlp )

and doesn't show little scratses to good

Hudson_Neon · Post by **Hudson_Neon** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:18 pm

Well when I wrote this, it was for an actual gun. Not a rattle can. These instructions are straight out of my textbook while in school for auto body. Yes a rattle can is cheaper, but you get what you pay for. You might not be able to tell the difference, but any trained eye could spot it easily

gtxtreme19 · Post by **gtxtreme19** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:24 pm

Hmm, a good tip for any noob painter is a cheap can of black spray paint. After your primer coat lay a thin (you want it fairly spotty so that you're still seeing primer) layer of the black. When you're sanding with a flat pad any dents will be black where the black is getting sanded away from high spots. May not be the best idea but I sure like knowing where any low spots sit without to much work to see them.

Hudson_Neon · Post by **Hudson_Neon** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:32 pm

That's a great idea. Its much cheaper than the "special chalk" we used in school. I use this at home now (will be doing it this weekend as a matter of fact)

dutch animal · Post by **dutch animal** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:38 pm

Hudson_Neon wrote:Well when I wrote this, it was for an actual gun. Not a rattle can. These instructions are straight out of my textbook while in school for auto body. Yes a rattle can is cheaper, but you get what you pay for. You might not be able to tell the difference, but any trained eye could spot it easily

i use a rattle cab for the primer - filler - black layer.
i use a gun ( hvlp ) for the base cote and clear.

al the layers u do whit a rattel can ... are the layers u sanddown a bid
so no worries there