How To: Molded PVO/AVS spoiler and shaved decklid
How To: Molded PVO/AVS spoiler and shaved decklid
I want to preface this how-to with a warning: This is extremely time consuming and shouldn't be attempted unless you have a fair knowledge of how materials like fiberglass, fiberglass resin, and Bondo work.
Supplies needed:
1 - 2000-2005 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Neon decklid
1 - PVO/AVS spoiler
1 - 3/4" dowel rod (only if your decklid isn't already wingless)
1 - medium sized "C" clamp (again, only if you aren't already wingless)
1 - gallon of lacquer thinner (if you want to remove the paint for maximum adhesion)
1 - Quart of Bondo
1 - Tube of glazing/spot putty
1 - Quart of fiberglass resin
1 - sheet of woven fiberglass cloth, approximately 10 square feet (DO NOT buy the sheets of blown fiberglass. What you buy should look like a piece of woven fabric)
At least 3 sheets each of 60 grit, 120 grit, 220-320 grit, and 400-600 grit sandpaper.
A couple of Durablocks (I recommend a 12"x1.5" block and another one of the same width cut down to 4-6")
a bucket that you can fill with soapy water (for wet sanding)
2 - syringes of quick set, 2 part epoxy (I prefer the 3-5 minute setup stuff versus the 1 minute so you have some time to work with it)
2-3 cans of automotive spray primer
A LOT of time and patience
If your deck lid is already wingless then you can skip this first step.
Cut the dowel rod so that when inserted into the bottom of the lid it fits flush with the surface. Apply 2-part epoxy, insert and clamp down until it sets up.
You don't need to shave the lock tumbler or the 3rd brake light. I did it because it looks better that way to me. Skip this part if you don't want to bother.
Remove the tumbler and third brake light. Add 2-part epoxy to the areas that make contact with the decklid and re-install. This will help insure that these two part stay put, forever.
Apply a coat of Bondo
Sand Bondo using Durablock whenever possible. Start with a 60-100 grit paper and work up to a 120-220 grit. (later we'll go back and finish up with some higher grit when prepping for paint)
Ta-Da! You can haz no clutter on your trunk!
I bought the CBD PVO-style spoiler in fiberglass. I would recommend getting the carbon fiber instead as the FG one is made of a single layer of blown fiber. It's quite flimsy and I had to fill it with some expanding foam to give it some rigidity. In addition to the two sided 3M adhesive strips that came on the wing, I added a thick bead of 2-part epoxy to affix it to the decklid. This is where having a slower cure time helps, as it takes a few minutes just to get a bead all around the spoiler.
Now you can either rough up the wing and decklid with sandpaper before applying a sheet of fiberglass, or you can use the thinner to strip the paint completely. The thinner is the best way to go, but it's time consuming and messy as hell. I just roughed the surface up really good with some 60 grit and went ahead and applied the fiberglass sheet. This step will help to ensure that the spoiler doesn't ever pull away from the decklid.
Add Bondo and sand to a smooth finish with a Durablock.
Again, ta-da!
You can repeat this process on the rear of the decklid, but you must be careful as to avoid mucking up the character line that runs through the middle of it. I didn't bother.
Now's the time when you want to check to make sure that you've created nice smooth surfaces. Sand, prime, and wet sand to check your surfaces. Make sure you have either sunlight or really bright direct indoor lighting to check your reflections to make sure that your surfaces are true.
Sand, Bondo, spot putty, prime and wet sand as necessary in order to perfect the surfaces that you've created. Finally prime the whole thing then wet sand with a 400-600 grit to clean it up and paint!
Voila!
Good luck!
Supplies needed:
1 - 2000-2005 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Neon decklid
1 - PVO/AVS spoiler
1 - 3/4" dowel rod (only if your decklid isn't already wingless)
1 - medium sized "C" clamp (again, only if you aren't already wingless)
1 - gallon of lacquer thinner (if you want to remove the paint for maximum adhesion)
1 - Quart of Bondo
1 - Tube of glazing/spot putty
1 - Quart of fiberglass resin
1 - sheet of woven fiberglass cloth, approximately 10 square feet (DO NOT buy the sheets of blown fiberglass. What you buy should look like a piece of woven fabric)
At least 3 sheets each of 60 grit, 120 grit, 220-320 grit, and 400-600 grit sandpaper.
A couple of Durablocks (I recommend a 12"x1.5" block and another one of the same width cut down to 4-6")
a bucket that you can fill with soapy water (for wet sanding)
2 - syringes of quick set, 2 part epoxy (I prefer the 3-5 minute setup stuff versus the 1 minute so you have some time to work with it)
2-3 cans of automotive spray primer
A LOT of time and patience
If your deck lid is already wingless then you can skip this first step.
Cut the dowel rod so that when inserted into the bottom of the lid it fits flush with the surface. Apply 2-part epoxy, insert and clamp down until it sets up.
You don't need to shave the lock tumbler or the 3rd brake light. I did it because it looks better that way to me. Skip this part if you don't want to bother.
Remove the tumbler and third brake light. Add 2-part epoxy to the areas that make contact with the decklid and re-install. This will help insure that these two part stay put, forever.
Apply a coat of Bondo
Sand Bondo using Durablock whenever possible. Start with a 60-100 grit paper and work up to a 120-220 grit. (later we'll go back and finish up with some higher grit when prepping for paint)
Ta-Da! You can haz no clutter on your trunk!
I bought the CBD PVO-style spoiler in fiberglass. I would recommend getting the carbon fiber instead as the FG one is made of a single layer of blown fiber. It's quite flimsy and I had to fill it with some expanding foam to give it some rigidity. In addition to the two sided 3M adhesive strips that came on the wing, I added a thick bead of 2-part epoxy to affix it to the decklid. This is where having a slower cure time helps, as it takes a few minutes just to get a bead all around the spoiler.
Now you can either rough up the wing and decklid with sandpaper before applying a sheet of fiberglass, or you can use the thinner to strip the paint completely. The thinner is the best way to go, but it's time consuming and messy as hell. I just roughed the surface up really good with some 60 grit and went ahead and applied the fiberglass sheet. This step will help to ensure that the spoiler doesn't ever pull away from the decklid.
Add Bondo and sand to a smooth finish with a Durablock.
Again, ta-da!
You can repeat this process on the rear of the decklid, but you must be careful as to avoid mucking up the character line that runs through the middle of it. I didn't bother.
Now's the time when you want to check to make sure that you've created nice smooth surfaces. Sand, prime, and wet sand to check your surfaces. Make sure you have either sunlight or really bright direct indoor lighting to check your reflections to make sure that your surfaces are true.
Sand, Bondo, spot putty, prime and wet sand as necessary in order to perfect the surfaces that you've created. Finally prime the whole thing then wet sand with a 400-600 grit to clean it up and paint!
Voila!
Good luck!
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Looks nice man. However, some of your pictures didn't show up for me.
CLICK ME!LilSparkPlug wrote:Polish her....females like that better than slathering! Yeah...I went there.
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I still got
CLICK ME!LilSparkPlug wrote:Polish her....females like that better than slathering! Yeah...I went there.
Official "Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club Member #8
- Swordfish2Cowboy
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Awesome write up. lolz at your shifties! Did you start to sell here? Saw them on srtforums.
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- sidepipe87
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Already told you this, but I love your car, and that is an awesome write up. It looks amazing!
Also, nice clear tail lights on the DSM. Is that yours too? Don't you get in trouble with the fuzz for those?
Also, nice clear tail lights on the DSM. Is that yours too? Don't you get in trouble with the fuzz for those?
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Thanks. It never runs anymore, but it's mine. I only got pulled over for them once and all I got was a fix it ticket. I swapped stockers back in for a day, went and showed the cops that I was legit, then swapped 'em back out. I really need to get that thing running before snow starts falling...
edit: I just realized that this forum tries to automatically correct spelling. What kind of crap it that?! I went to change what I though was my own mistake (what was supposed to read as "t a - d a" reads as ta-the). WTF is that crap about?
edit: I just realized that this forum tries to automatically correct spelling. What kind of crap it that?! I went to change what I though was my own mistake (what was supposed to read as "t a - d a" reads as ta-the). WTF is that crap about?
Last edited by wiggyx on Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- sidepipe87
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Wow, a DSM that doesn't run....and what's your point??wiggyx wrote:Thanks. It never runs anymore, but it's mine. I only got pulled over for them once and all I got was a fix it ticket. I swapped stockers back in for a day, went and showed the cops that I was legit, then swapped 'em back out. I really need to get that thing running before snow starts falling...
nice. I always liked clear taillights but they'd never last here. The cops are pricks about everything.
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No eubonics allowed here, Biotch!wiggyx wrote: edit: I just realized that this forum tries to automatically correct spelling. What kind of crap it that?! I went to change what I though was my own mistake (what was supposed to read as "t a - d a" reads as ta-the). WTF is that crap about?
As in wat d a f*ck!
Bill
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1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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"T a - D a" is ebonics? That's news to me.occasional demons wrote: No eubonics allowed here, Biotch!
As in wat d a f*ck!
It's not my browser. When I go to edit the post, it still says t a - d a. Weird?sidepipe87 wrote:is it the forum or your browser?
Here are some screen caps to show what I mean.
Here's the reply window. Notice "T a - D a" is correct.
And here's the preview, where it has magically been transformed to "Ta-The".
- sidepipe87
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huh... that is interesting. I've never encountered that. Only Firefox telling me I misspelled something. weird.
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The forum itself just decided to correct it. I didn't run a spell check. Firefox lets you know when you've misspelled something, but doesn't auto-correct or anything like that. Like I said before, when I went back to edit the post, it still said "t a - d a". So the forum doesn't actually change the word, it just displays something else. I have no idea why. It's kind of annoying though. I wonder if it works with other slang terms?slow2.0ts13 wrote:it auto- changed it or only when u did spell check?
edit: It also changes "d a t" into "that".
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damn i dnt think ima try and mold da pvo spoiler to my CF trunk
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nice write up,but why dowels and epoxy to fill the holes?? i see a couple of problems with that,the first being that filling a hole with wood is not a good idea given the totaly different expansion contraction rates for materals,i would think that within a short while there would be ghosting.a better method for those who want to try this would be to get some 18g steel and cut some plugs out that are just a little larger than the holes and use some 3M panel adhesive to attach them,panel adhesive is claimed to be 11 times stronger than a equivalent weld,and is used to hold many parts of newer cars together like quarter panels ect.then i would take a grinder to the outside of the holes and grind it down till you have a little bit of a bowl shape to make filling/feathering easier,and use a good filler,like solder,or Metal2Metal. metal2metal is a very nice high solids filler that is used in place of traditional leading.it is very tough stuff that feathers nice.i would also this method to fill the third break light and key hole.and when moulding the spoiler i would recomend Evercoats Rage Gold body filler,traditional bondo brand filler is shit,and i will not use it on any of my projects.although they're fiberglass products are not too bad.
but like i said nice write up,i love the pvo spoilers
but like i said nice write up,i love the pvo spoilers
Ziptie's come in handy when a prostitute gets mouthy or reluctant
*eye twitches*
I like people who BUY a 10 sec car and then brag about it. Thats like hiring someone to bang your wife and then bragging about the kid
*eye twitches*
I like people who BUY a 10 sec car and then brag about it. Thats like hiring someone to bang your wife and then bragging about the kid
The wood doesn't actually fill the hole, it just gives me a platform in which to apply body filler to. Plus, there's a sheet of fiberglass over the fill as well. It'll never show up. I've used Bondo for over 15 years and it does its job fine for me. I use some of the more expensive fillers for the areas that need lots of feathering (like the areas where metal meets fiberglass), but it's too cost prohibitive to use the nice stuff for a job this big IMO.theTeejmiester wrote:nice write up,but why dowels and epoxy to fill the holes?? i see a couple of problems with that,the first being that filling a hole with wood is not a good idea given the totaly different expansion contraction rates for materals,i would think that within a short while there would be ghosting.a better method for those who want to try this would be to get some 18g steel and cut some plugs out that are just a little larger than the holes and use some 3M panel adhesive to attach them,panel adhesive is claimed to be 11 times stronger than a equivalent weld,and is used to hold many parts of newer cars together like quarter panels ect.then i would take a grinder to the outside of the holes and grind it down till you have a little bit of a bowl shape to make filling/feathering easier,and use a good filler,like solder,or Metal2Metal. metal2metal is a very nice high solids filler that is used in place of traditional leading.it is very tough stuff that feathers nice.i would also this method to fill the third break light and key hole.and when moulding the spoiler i would recomend Evercoats Rage Gold body filler,traditional bondo brand filler is shit,and i will not use it on any of my projects.although they're fiberglass products are not too bad.
but like i said nice write up,i love the pvo spoilers