How-To: Prep/paint grille inserts (03+)
How-To: Prep/paint grille inserts (03+)
Ive spent the last 3 days carefully prepping and painting my inserts and I figured id give a quick how to for those of you who are interested in doing this (or even something similar). Id like to acknowledge the help and info I got from 03_SXT, aka Amit, who is responsible for some of the paint info below. Here we go:
1. Removal of inserts:
Take a flathead driver (or equivelant) and pry them off GENTLY, being careful of the paint. Use something with a less harsh edge if you are worried about the paint. Use leverage from the grille to pop them off one clip at a time, starting from the outer ones and working in. Be careful not to break them, they are plastic.
2. Prep work
Start by sanding with a mid-grit, removing the chrome layer. After youre done they should look like smooth aluminum. Take your time and keep it even and smooth.
Next clean the inserts with soap and water and be careful not to get oil or grease on the surface to be painted.
3. Primer
Get a good auto primer (plastic works too) and make sure it is wet sandable. Shake the can up and lay on 2-4 light coats from about 10" away. See can for dry-time between coats. For best look and max smoothness, wet sand in between the last couple coats, but make sure you let them dry for at least a few hours before doing this. Allow the primer as long as possible to dry (using quick dry worked good and allowed me to paint the same day as prep).
4. Paint
Sand the primered surface nice and smooth, then clean it with soap and water again and get ready to paint. Start by doing a few light coats, letting each dry for 10 mins or so. I did 4 coats i believe, each about 10-20 mins apart. Allow 24 hours to dry for best results.
If the paint doesnt look quite right, or if it looks a bit thin, do the above step over again, but only do as many coats as you feel necessary. Feel free to wet sand between before respraying to smooth the surface. I suggest 1000 or so grit so as not to damage the paint so far.
Allow 24 hours of dry time before next step.
5. Clear coat
After dry-time for the paint, get a good auto clear coat and apply after LIGHTLY sanding the surface with a very fine paper, like 2000.
If the paint looks ready to go, apply 2-4 light clear coats, and allow another 24 hours to dry. If needed, wet sand with the 2000 grit once more afterwards to smooth things out. All done!
Ill have finished pics up soon, as soon as i get a sunny day! good luck
1. Removal of inserts:
Take a flathead driver (or equivelant) and pry them off GENTLY, being careful of the paint. Use something with a less harsh edge if you are worried about the paint. Use leverage from the grille to pop them off one clip at a time, starting from the outer ones and working in. Be careful not to break them, they are plastic.
2. Prep work
Start by sanding with a mid-grit, removing the chrome layer. After youre done they should look like smooth aluminum. Take your time and keep it even and smooth.
Next clean the inserts with soap and water and be careful not to get oil or grease on the surface to be painted.
3. Primer
Get a good auto primer (plastic works too) and make sure it is wet sandable. Shake the can up and lay on 2-4 light coats from about 10" away. See can for dry-time between coats. For best look and max smoothness, wet sand in between the last couple coats, but make sure you let them dry for at least a few hours before doing this. Allow the primer as long as possible to dry (using quick dry worked good and allowed me to paint the same day as prep).
4. Paint
Sand the primered surface nice and smooth, then clean it with soap and water again and get ready to paint. Start by doing a few light coats, letting each dry for 10 mins or so. I did 4 coats i believe, each about 10-20 mins apart. Allow 24 hours to dry for best results.
If the paint doesnt look quite right, or if it looks a bit thin, do the above step over again, but only do as many coats as you feel necessary. Feel free to wet sand between before respraying to smooth the surface. I suggest 1000 or so grit so as not to damage the paint so far.
Allow 24 hours of dry time before next step.
5. Clear coat
After dry-time for the paint, get a good auto clear coat and apply after LIGHTLY sanding the surface with a very fine paper, like 2000.
If the paint looks ready to go, apply 2-4 light clear coats, and allow another 24 hours to dry. If needed, wet sand with the 2000 grit once more afterwards to smooth things out. All done!
Ill have finished pics up soon, as soon as i get a sunny day! good luck
Last edited by OB on Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Derek
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- Nick Drake
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Before and after pics?
Thanks for the stepbystep pics though, I've been thinking about doing this for a while.
Thanks for the stepbystep pics though, I've been thinking about doing this for a while.
kc2002acr wrote:because if I was racing you at a 60 roll, I would have been in second for a second till I hit 3rd, then I would have called you on my cell phone and asked you if my taillights were all working.
- kc2005ptgt
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Damn OB, nice job. I knew you were wanting to do this at one point. Good to see you take the initiative!! Awesome write up bro.
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777
thanks for the compliments guys, i have after pics but i havent got time to load em on yet. expect em by monday or tuesday. i might get some old pics up too for before shots.
-Derek
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yeah im gonna have to do that to my car...it looks so much better...project time
-Matt-
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
BB PIN: 317CEE50
04 Black SXT
AEM intake, MPx underdrive pulley, MPx throttle body, Prothane Motor Mounts , Mopar short throw shifter Eibach lowing springs, Mag Intake Manifold, Mopar 3D Taillights, Mag head, Comp 400 cam, FF LTH. All this work and I'm still slow...time to find another car
BB PIN: 317CEE50
- kc2005ptgt
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Funny story, but when I was looking to buy a Neon (before I got my present ACR) I stayed away from the 03 because of the huge chrome "smile" on the grill. I hated it, so I decided to buy an 02 or earlier. I ended up of course with the ACR.
BTW - that black car is s3xy with the painted grill.
BTW - that black car is s3xy with the painted grill.
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777
I know what your next project is.
The horizontal and verticle slates on the lower portion of your bumper should be flat black, to match the black plastic of the honeycomb grille up on top.
I'm trying to imagine it my head, and I think it would look nice.
~Amit
BTW: The car looks 100%, I hate chrome on Neons...
The horizontal and verticle slates on the lower portion of your bumper should be flat black, to match the black plastic of the honeycomb grille up on top.
I'm trying to imagine it my head, and I think it would look nice.
~Amit
BTW: The car looks 100%, I hate chrome on Neons...
I like those the way they are. A lot of people like the black deal, but to me it just looks silly. I think the more things match the better. I even thought about painting my eyelids to match, but the CF is pretty nice lookin so im gonna leave em be. how do u like the results?
-Derek
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yeah thats exactly what i think too. thanks again for all your help, all your advice worked perfectly. I learned quite a bit about painting with this project.
-Derek
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I'm glad you did, it helps out a lot knowing just a little when you want to do small jobs like this.
I think my next job is to sand down my painted interior peices and match them (the finish at least) with the center bezel and shifter bezel.
But seriously, if you ever get your hands on an 03+ bumper for dirt cheap, try out the flat black idea. It would match very nicely with the upper grille. I would do it, but my car is black, so no point.
What's the next project?
~Amit
I think my next job is to sand down my painted interior peices and match them (the finish at least) with the center bezel and shifter bezel.
But seriously, if you ever get your hands on an 03+ bumper for dirt cheap, try out the flat black idea. It would match very nicely with the upper grille. I would do it, but my car is black, so no point.
What's the next project?
~Amit
pron gonna paint match some of the underhood goodies just for shits and grins. theyre already orange but not obpearl. I was thinkin of painting my rt skirts whenever i get em too, would that be a bit too much u think? or would i save money doing it myself?
-Derek
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For something like sideskirts, I would let a body shop take care of that. No matter how much prep work and sanding you do, rattle can spray paint with a clear will never look like the paint on your car.
The body shop uses a high quality spray gun, feed with an airline that gives out a steady flow of paint, so each layer is significantly smoother than what a rattle can can do. They also use a professional grade clear coat as well, which really brings out the depth and shine of the paint.
About under the hood, make sure you find something high temperature, I painted my airbox cover and paint started to bubble within a few months. Get stuff powder coated, there is nothing better...
~Amit
The body shop uses a high quality spray gun, feed with an airline that gives out a steady flow of paint, so each layer is significantly smoother than what a rattle can can do. They also use a professional grade clear coat as well, which really brings out the depth and shine of the paint.
About under the hood, make sure you find something high temperature, I painted my airbox cover and paint started to bubble within a few months. Get stuff powder coated, there is nothing better...
~Amit
The chrysler orange paint I have under there now is high heat, as well as the clear coat enamel I have over it. If I use the orangeblast paint and put some clear coats on top, will that be alright, or will the paint under the clear still be affected?
-Derek
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yeah black was my original thought too, but im glad i went with body color, black would prob look a bit cheap. maybe try painting it flat black and see if u like it, but dont do lots of coats and whatnot, just one test coat. if u dont then sand it and redo it.linkin18t wrote:Don't do black It looks like ish.reppinthe2.0 wrote:thanks for the write up, im gonna do my OB but my inserts black
-Derek
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