How-To: Installing Oil Pressure and Volt Gauges
- orangeneon05
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Ok question I was using the filter sandwich adapter but now Im using the viper filter and Im lowered on Pro kit sooo....
I planned on going to the block for the electric oil pressure sender but wondering if I can put the oil temp sender there as well or should I drill and tap out the oil pan?? I am only worried because I would have to fit the oil pressure sender, the oil temp sender and the stock sensor behind the block somehow!!
If I do have to resort to drilling and tapping the pand whats a good location for the hole. Thanks
I planned on going to the block for the electric oil pressure sender but wondering if I can put the oil temp sender there as well or should I drill and tap out the oil pan?? I am only worried because I would have to fit the oil pressure sender, the oil temp sender and the stock sensor behind the block somehow!!
If I do have to resort to drilling and tapping the pand whats a good location for the hole. Thanks
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- orangeneon05
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- orangeneon05
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they only way i can see it like screwing up the readings is if the temp sender is too far from the block to where it might be like just a little off and same with the pressure. you might want to get all three senders as close as possible. i do not know for sure about this subject as for im just getting started on the pressure one. can some one help us out by throwing ideas out there maybe even facts that can help.
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Have you tried doing a search on 'The.Org' ??Caraudioholic24 wrote:HELP I wanna do this next weekend. I just need to know what I should do. Thanks
I don't remember any threads off-hand, that I could point you to, but I know that this is a topic that gets discussed there from time to time.
Wait, here's one:
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=339560
Does this help ?
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
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-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
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Well again it only shows the oil PRESSURE sender and the idiot light sender. I was going to attemp to install 3. the oil pressure , the oil temp and the idiot light. I just want to make sure the readings wont be off.
Worse case I tap out the oil pan and install the oil temp there. I just want to know the best spot to do so.
Thanks Nickko I appreciate the help
Worse case I tap out the oil pan and install the oil temp there. I just want to know the best spot to do so.
Thanks Nickko I appreciate the help
Thank you for this how-to! i can finally get to installing my gauges..
although, i picked up 14 gauge wiring.. should i take it back and get
16/18 or am i safe to use the 14 i bought?
although, i picked up 14 gauge wiring.. should i take it back and get
16/18 or am i safe to use the 14 i bought?
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- jonnymopar
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Safe? 14 is larger, so if anything, you're safer.
I used 20 gauge for all mine and even that's overkill for what they draw. 14 is huge.
I used 20 gauge for all mine and even that's overkill for what they draw. 14 is huge.
Jon J.
2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped
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so smaller numbers = larger wires?
can i haz a cookie?
can i haz a cookie?
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They should be the same wire code.akirony wrote:Ok question. Are the r/t and sxt wiring colors different? Im getting pink/black and blue for my ignition and 12v.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Actally, I just checked and the op says to use the black wire with the small red
stripe, but that follows through to my rear window defrost switch.
in my 04 sxt, the 12v cig. lighter wire is colored red with a small black stripe.
stripe, but that follows through to my rear window defrost switch.
in my 04 sxt, the 12v cig. lighter wire is colored red with a small black stripe.
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another question/update.
srtjesse helped me finish (mainly did it himself while i held the flash
light ) my vacuum gauge and the oil gauge is inactive for
now. so far everything turned out great, except i broke the top clips
off both a pillars.... of course...
for future reference, whats the best way to remove these pillars? is
there a certain direction i should pull? or can i use something to pry
off the clip?
srtjesse helped me finish (mainly did it himself while i held the flash
light ) my vacuum gauge and the oil gauge is inactive for
now. so far everything turned out great, except i broke the top clips
off both a pillars.... of course...
for future reference, whats the best way to remove these pillars? is
there a certain direction i should pull? or can i use something to pry
off the clip?
My Progress Log
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000104
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they both broke on the first time ever pulling them out
without the clips though, the weight of the gauges pulls the pillar right
down on top of my dash board.. i'm currently using two extra sun
visors to jam it against the car upright.. duct tape wasn't working.......
without the clips though, the weight of the gauges pulls the pillar right
down on top of my dash board.. i'm currently using two extra sun
visors to jam it against the car upright.. duct tape wasn't working.......
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might as well update this since someone is bound to come across the
same problems:
replacing the clips is a PITA, but i managed to do it.. and i'm a real
klutz.. i just used a flat head screw driver to wiggle the clips up and
out. putting them on was obviously so much easier.
and also, for removing and re-installation, i HIGHLY suggest:
- in any case, remove the weather stripping on the door seal
- when removing, get a good grip (a good handful) of the pillar, and
wiggle it back and forth while pulling the pillar outward. this lessens the
chance of the hooks being caught or stuck, which would cause the
hook to break at its weak point.
- when re-installing, line the bottom of the pillar with the dash first,
then line up the two longer plastic locator points with the provided
holes, and then as you slide the pillar into place, use a flashlight to
ensure the clips are going directly into their specific holes.
while trying to put my passanger side in, the two plastic locator points
lined up perfectly, but the clip was missing the hole, causing it to
bend instead of being guided in properly.
it can be done, just be patient and don't force anything.
same problems:
replacing the clips is a PITA, but i managed to do it.. and i'm a real
klutz.. i just used a flat head screw driver to wiggle the clips up and
out. putting them on was obviously so much easier.
and also, for removing and re-installation, i HIGHLY suggest:
- in any case, remove the weather stripping on the door seal
- when removing, get a good grip (a good handful) of the pillar, and
wiggle it back and forth while pulling the pillar outward. this lessens the
chance of the hooks being caught or stuck, which would cause the
hook to break at its weak point.
- when re-installing, line the bottom of the pillar with the dash first,
then line up the two longer plastic locator points with the provided
holes, and then as you slide the pillar into place, use a flashlight to
ensure the clips are going directly into their specific holes.
while trying to put my passanger side in, the two plastic locator points
lined up perfectly, but the clip was missing the hole, causing it to
bend instead of being guided in properly.
it can be done, just be patient and don't force anything.
My Progress Log
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000104
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