Just remove the scuff plates, lift the carpet, and feed the wires up through.
I lifted the center console enough to run the wire to the passenger seat beneath it.
I ran the wires under the scuff plate on the driver side.
This is how I powered the seats: I pulled the wiring from an old PDC
Then soldered it to the wire, that I used for the pos (+) polarity.
Remove the fuse box.
Flip it over to expose the back side. I chose to only have the seats powered with the ignition on. Use a test light to confirm which connector strip is powered in the mode you prefer. This can be used to power other things, so there are 3 options: Ignition on only, Ignition/accessories, and keys out.
Once you determine which one suits your needs, just slide the terminal in until it locks.
If you make a mistake, or have a spare fuse box, You need to remove the yellow front cover.
There are locking tabs inside that can be pried out to pull the terminal back out.
This is another option, tho it sucks if the fuse blows. This is how I had my trunk release fused before I had the spare PDC. I re did it while I was wiring this project.
OK, put the fuse box back together, if it was taken apart, and reinstall it. I grounded the neg (-) polarity wire to the screw near the fuse box.
Now it is time to make some mods, and adapters.
The Concode seat rails are a bit shorter, and wider than the neon’s. Cut a piece of cardboard large enough to span the differences..
Bolt it down with the oem hardware, and place the seat on top of it. You want to be sure the front mounts are all the way against the front mounting rail. This is the only location that lines up correctly.
Mark the hole locations for the rear on the cardboard.
Then make some adapter brackets. I chose 10 gauge steel.
I then bought some 12mm button head screws, and tapped the holes for the seat rails. I used loc-tite to keep them from backing out. I am using ny-lock nuts to hold the seat rails to the adapter.
I took this to show the different angles the front mounts use. The inner mount on both sides must be cut off, and it needs to point straight down, instead of angling inward.
Like so:
This is what they look like installed:
One thing I still need to do, is cut the large end off the scuff plates. The part at the rear of them will not clear the controls on the seats. They are a tight squeeze to reach with the doors closed, but still reachable. Possibly down the road, I may relocate the controls.
Some random comparison shots between the Concorde and neon seats.
neon
Concorde
The base showing the motors/mechanicals.
This part alone list for over $700 each side. Thankfully everything fuctions!
It was well worth the risk of bidding on these, hoping they would physically fit. I was scouting out cars in parking lots like a creeper, to try and get an idea of what was close to the neon seating. People prolly thought I was looking for loose items to steal.
Edit: Crappy video...
I may have to scout out the junkyards for old Concordes with seats still in them. I wonder how that would work in my PT Cruiser. Will have to investigate further. Thanks for the great write-up and pics man.
They were a little wide for the neon insert. It would latch, but could pivot around in there quite a bit.
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Memory seats would have been the ultimate, but I believe the memory module is integrated into the RKE or something of that nature. That would take some major wiring/voodoo to get it to work in/with neon RKE, let alone a base neon. This was simple to wire, just two strands. 
