How To: Battery Relocation *w/pics*

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:53 pm

It looks like a huge bitch of a wiring and work.

OB, how long from start to finish did this take you?

I need to get a battery box I don't want it floating around...anyone know where to get one cheap?

blue demon02 · Post by **blue demon02** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:04 am

Adionik wrote:It looks like a huge bitch of a wiring and work.

OB, how long from start to finish did this take you?

I need to get a battery box I don't want it floating around...anyone know where to get one cheap?

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecId=2491

$16.99

OB · Post by OB » Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:02 pm

Adionik wrote:It looks like a huge bitch of a wiring and work.

OB, how long from start to finish did this take you?

I need to get a battery box I don't want it floating around...anyone know where to get one cheap?

Took about 2 hours with breaks. Should be much quicker for you though because I already figured out the routing for you (the hard part).

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:13 pm

Did you have any dash fitment issues or any problems with the carpet and stuff?

OB · Post by OB » Sun Nov 16, 2008 6:55 pm

Not the way I routed it. Cant even tell it's there from the cowl to the back seats. If I still had trunk carpeting I could probably hide more of the wiring, too. Dash pops right in, and I used an existing channel under the carpet that works perfectly. The rear seats clear it easily as well. If I kept the hood and trunk closed you would never have a clue.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:11 am

Just so you all know, if you go to run at a NHRA track, you'll need a turnoff switch. Wired like in the writeup with a switch inline, your car wont turn off. To make it NHRA legal, you need to run 2 wires to the back, one coming from the alternator to the battery, and the other going from the battery to the PDC.

srtjesse · Post by **srtjesse** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:44 am

wow man nice write up good job

OB · Post by OB » Sat Dec 27, 2008 1:46 pm

Thank you^^

And Jerry is correct, many racing bodies require a kill switch when the battery is not under the hood. I planned on wiring one in, but decided to wait until later on down the road. I plan on using a ground-side switch personally. A kill switch would also double as a quick way to kill battery power for electrical system service. A win-win.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:39 pm

I'd like to thank Jerry too..... I didn't know about the "2 wire" rule.
It makes more sense, actually.....

Looks like I'll need to go out and buy MORE 0ga. welding cable and pull the interior on my Neon again.....

- Nick

invujerry wrote:Just so you all know, if you go to run at a NHRA track, you'll need a turnoff switch. Wired like in the writeup with a switch inline, your car wont turn off. To make it NHRA legal, you need to run 2 wires to the back, one coming from the alternator to the battery, and the other going from the battery to the PDC.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:21 pm

Well, there are different ways to wire it. The only thing is that to run at a track, you need a cutoff if your battery is in the trunk. As long as when you turn off that switch everything cuts off, you'll be fine.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 8:35 pm

I've already run a cable from the engine compartment to the trunk on the driver's side.... and hid it under the doorsill and carpeting. You wouldn't ever know it's there.

That side can run the starter & PDC.

Now, I'll just do the same on the passenger side..... for the alternator.

- Nick

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 8:41 pm

Well, usually the way the wires go stock, it goes from the alternator, to the starter, from the starter to the battery, and the battery to the PDC. I'd just interrupt the line from the battery to the PDC.

OB · Post by OB » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:41 pm

^Correct. No reason to run extra pos+ wires. Just attach the old battery ground to the frame, and the new ground to the rear strut tower (or other good frame ground). The Hot side can simply be spliced into the starter/PDC. Done.

yellowpatrol · Post by **yellowpatrol** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:26 pm

Anyone have a good place to get the wiring required for this at a reasonable price?

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:10 pm

yellowpatrol wrote:Anyone have a good place to get the wiring required for this at a reasonable price?

No idea, but I bet a race car fabrication shop might do this kind of work....

Anyone else ??

- Nick

OB · Post by OB » Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:27 pm

If you just want to buy the cable, head to a local electrical store. Most auto stores sell battery cable by the foot too, like Napa.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:30 pm

I have heard / read that 0GA Welding cable has the lowest ohms / resistance, if you want to go that route.

Ace Hardware sells it by the foot.

- Nick

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Fri May 01, 2009 4:13 am

Just did this today. Taking my time, it wasn't hard at all and I probably would've finished it but I didn't pick up a distribution block just yet. Also gotta ground off the grounds on the battery terminal and pick up a few more connectors

OhNo2.0 · Post by **OhNo2.0** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:59 pm

I hope you don't get a flat tire

You should put the tire where the battery was...that would really F#$% up ppls perception

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:38 am

OhNo2.0 wrote:I hope you don't get a flat tire

You should put the tire where the battery was...that would really F#$% up ppls perception

Kind of like the old VW Beetles, huh ?

- Nick

AR04SRT · Post by **AR04SRT** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:46 am

nice write up

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:05 pm

Is there any problem with running the positive battery wire under the car long the center?

OB · Post by OB » Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:07 pm

Aside from the obvious problem of it being exposed to weather and debris, no.

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:22 pm

Well the cars not winter driven so i didnt think there was a massive problem aside from that. and Could i just use a distrobution block instead of leaving the metal positive hook up "loose" in the engine bay? If so what one would work?

OB · Post by OB » Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:24 pm

Sure you could do it however you want really. You will have to find a block that can handle some serious amperage though, and one that can be easily mounted without touching ground.

nate-00neon · Post by **nate-00neon** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:54 pm

is this was NHRA safe?

OB · Post by OB » Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:23 pm

nate-00neon wrote:is this was NHRA safe?

Read above posts...

nate-00neon · Post by **nate-00neon** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:01 am

oh sorry i did not read everything.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:33 am

I plan on doing this finally, since quite a few things are stripped in my car.

OB, did you ever get a box for it with a tube that vent the gases outside of the vehicle?

OB · Post by OB » Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:46 pm

Nope it's the same way it's always been, going like 3 years strong now. I haven't died yet

2GN.ORG

How To: Battery Relocation w/pics