How To: Battery Relocation *w/pics*

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:23 pm

18 gauge wire would be fine, if you relocate. It's not like it is drawing any measurable amperage. I doubt you could even measure the difference in resistance with a home, or most commercial meter. If you were pulling 40 amps through it, I could see it.
Bill
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OB
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Post by OB » Mon Dec 06, 2010 2:57 pm

Figured I might as well throw in my 2 cents.

On engine models that didn't have the BTS, a PCM algorithm was used instead for calculating charging voltage through the internal regulator. Along with IAT, coolant temp, vehicle speed, and other inputs, the approximate charging needs of the battery could be calculated. However, since the PCM's accepted range of suitable charging voltage is fairly large at 13.5-14.7V, there shouldn't be any issue simply disconnecting the sensor from the battery (it should just unclip, no need to tear the thermal guard apart). Extremely low temps would be the only possible problem, since several systems inputs may not be factored into the PCM's calculations.

Since we're playing with basically a computer that can think for itself, there is no way of knowing for sure what will happen when changes are made in this particular circuit. Then again, finding this kind of stuff out is half the fun!
-Derek

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occasional demons
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Posts: 19866
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Mon Dec 06, 2010 5:34 pm

The problem with unplugging it, is it will default to 13.5 volts, and the battery light stays lit. It has to be plugged in, if you don't want the light. And closer to 14 volts.
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
Seriously people, this is 2019 not 1920.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Help support 2GN!

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