UDP Confusion

pbl3 · Post by **pbl3** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 10:53 pm

So I've been looking at different threads, and the UDP seems like a sensible upgrade to pep up my DD, but I still can't make out a definitive answer for some questions. I have a 1100 watt amp in my trunk running to six Rockford Fosgate speakers, no subs. Some are saying stay away from the UDP because of the power being taken by the amp and the alternator won't keep my car running with that amount of power going to the speakers.

First question, is this even a possible upgrade for me? (/noob)

If it is, will adding a capacitor effect how it works?

A@ron · Post by **A@ron** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:07 pm

All the car audio installers I know dislike capacitors and say people should just upgrade "the big 3" to do it right.

You could pop a SRT-4 Alternator on there since they have a higher output than stock neon ones.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:02 am

The SRT/GT Cruiser alternator is not a plug and play deal. The upper bracket, connector, and the alternator need modified to fit on a 2.0.

occasional demons wrote: 136 amp 56029701AB

1gn 4793692AB 83amp 1998/99 ECB/ECC (neon) Mitsubishi

I'm assuming the 1gn and 2gn connectors are the same?

Also the stud for the 136 amp is 8mm vs 6mm for the 83 amp, Not a big deal if you are upgrading wiring anyways.

This is what I did to the adjustment hole:

The difference in the back:

The large diameter pulley is the 83 amp, the small the 136. Note the difference at the center.

The 136 PT pulley will not work for an overdrive on the 85 amp.

Unless you can turn the center down to match the 83 amp pulley, it will not go past the front boss.

Fortunately, the 136 amp came with the connector, but cut flush.

So you will need to mill the adjuster hole, and swap connectors to use this alternator on a 2.0 neon.

Since I got this for $40 shipped, it is worth it to me to play with it to make it work.

occasional demons wrote:
heydockyle wrote:95-97 have one plug style. 97.5-2005 Have the other style.

Also have a p/t N/A alternator on my 2.4 swap.

The 56029701AB Turbo Alternator does not use the N/A alternator connector.

The GT PT connector is PN 5019925AA $48.70

The N/A 97.5 - '05 connector is 5017120AA $26.60
The 2.4 N/A is the same connector as the 2.0

The SRT connector is not serviced, but the GT PT connector should work. The SRT is Lt gray, the GT PT is black.

So if you should damage your SRT field control connector, specify a Turbo PT connector at the dealer, or when they look it up they are going to tell you it is not available. Remember, not all parts ppl are gonna be smart enough, or care enough to go "Gee maybe we should look up a PT connector...

Of course the connector parts look up does not give an illustration of the connectors, so that does not help matters....

Edit:

5019925AA also is the PN for the door ajar sense connectors. Possibly others? These are not necessarily in the doors but in the B and C pillars. B pillar passenger side, and C pillar driver side.

It is also used on the '99 to ? Durango/Dakota/Ram/Ram Van alternators. So there are plenty of JY options.

I re soldered leads onto mine. Cheaper/faster than going to a JY.

$50 for a little connector is pushing it. Especially when it has less parts than the other alternator connector, and is a simpler design. Certainly not manufacturing costs, I would hope.

If you get an overdrive pulley for your alternator, you should be as good as you currently are as far as electrical supply.

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:45 am

Stay away from caps they are a joke on my 05 I ran 0 gauge grounds and even with my UDP i still carried a good 13.8 volts at idle do a big 3 upgrade and you will be golden

pbl3 · Post by **pbl3** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:36 pm

occasional demons wrote: If you get an overdrive pulley for your alternator, you should be as good as you currently are as far as electrical supply.

Electrical supply is going good at the moment (besides the occasional "See how loud it can get"). The GT/SRT alternator project is a bit much for me.

So ultimately, if I keep the system the way it is, performance gains will be minimal, if any, is what it seems like. Electrical supply is more of the concern with the pulleys, which is good where it is stock, though I'll probably upgrade the big 3 regardless.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:09 pm

If the alternator needs replaced in the future, you could opt for a 2005 neon alternator. They were 120 amp from the factory.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:22 am

occasional demons wrote:If the alternator needs replaced in the future, you could opt for a 2005 neon alternator. They were 120 amp from the factory.

That's what I thought I read a while back, but I couldn't remember if it was the neon or the non-turbo pt cruiser.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:26 am

Both I think. The N/A PT alternator should fit on the 2.0.

IIRC, the 2008 N/A PT's got upgraded to 136 amps, but IDK if they just used the turbo upper bracket, and the turbo alternator. Basically all you need, for a 2.4. besides the wiring upgrade, but I suspect when they went to 120, the wire size was also increased.

Note:
The 2.4 bracket does not work on the 2.0 block.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:37 pm

occasional demons wrote:Both I think. The N/A PT alternator should fit on the 2.0.

IIRC, the 2008 N/A PT's got upgraded to 136 amps, but IDK if they just used the turbo upper bracket, and the turbo alternator. Basically all you need, for a 2.4. besides the wiring upgrade, but I suspect when they went to 120, the wire size was also increased.

Note:
The 2.4 bracket does not work on the 2.0 block.

Just checked the part #'s and the PT is the same as the 05 neon. Should be plenty at local junk yards, they go for about $50 around here.