2003 SRT
Re: 2003 SRT DD
I used Mopar PS2 spray paint. I sanded it smooth and coated it in silver, filled the slots and numbers with dark red paint, then cleared over it all. Two years of regular use and it's still smooth.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
Re: 2003 SRT DD
I finally got around to installing the Torque Solution motor mounts in the SRT. The bottom was pretty straight forward. Check out all the oil under this thing. I have my work cut out for me with this car.
The top mount, which is supposed to be the easy one, was a major pain in the ass. It was all because the captive nut for the vertical bolt had broken free and just spun inside the bracket. Fortunately, I have a parts car in the driveway and I managed to solve the issue. Now the SRT officially wears a part of the old car. I was going to paint it black before installing it, but I kept it silver as sort of a tribute to the fallen R/T.
The silver bracket is barely noticeable. I think it looks right at home.
The top mount, which is supposed to be the easy one, was a major pain in the ass. It was all because the captive nut for the vertical bolt had broken free and just spun inside the bracket. Fortunately, I have a parts car in the driveway and I managed to solve the issue. Now the SRT officially wears a part of the old car. I was going to paint it black before installing it, but I kept it silver as sort of a tribute to the fallen R/T.
The silver bracket is barely noticeable. I think it looks right at home.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Interesting. I wonder if I can get mine to look that good in PX8.
Jon J.
2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Cubby light is back!
I also installed the Torque Solution solid shifter base bushings from the silver car. That installation process is never very fun.
I'm contemplating pulling out the big, fancy Alpine head unit. It has AUX and USB inputs, XM radio, CD changer, and bluetooth. That means it has wires and antennas running everywhere, which drives me nuts. It also has a big external hard drive shoved under it that sits right on top of the cubby. It's large and it's heavy and I don't want it. I can't get the bluetooth to work, either. It all makes me want to swap it out for my old Pioneer. It's lighter, it's simpler, and the bluetooth actually works. The Alpine was a $450 head unit when it was new and the Pioneer costs me a quarter of that, but I like it better. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, yet.
I also installed the Torque Solution solid shifter base bushings from the silver car. That installation process is never very fun.
I'm contemplating pulling out the big, fancy Alpine head unit. It has AUX and USB inputs, XM radio, CD changer, and bluetooth. That means it has wires and antennas running everywhere, which drives me nuts. It also has a big external hard drive shoved under it that sits right on top of the cubby. It's large and it's heavy and I don't want it. I can't get the bluetooth to work, either. It all makes me want to swap it out for my old Pioneer. It's lighter, it's simpler, and the bluetooth actually works. The Alpine was a $450 head unit when it was new and the Pioneer costs me a quarter of that, but I like it better. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, yet.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Nice. I wish that my Neon had a cubby light.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
It's really easy to hook up if you ever find one in a junkyard. All manual Neons have the power source under the shifter, for the light in the auto shifter. All you need to do is snip off the bulb holder and connect the wires to the cubby light wires and then run them up, behind the cubby. The wires are the same colors and everything. The hardest part is just finding the light itself.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
You know me- I would want to try to find new parts if I had the part numbers.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Weren't these a 2000 MY only item that was pruned for cost reduction?
Different descriptions, but both are shown in the trim bezel for the cubby.
4608669AA 1 LAMP, Ash Receiver
L0000037 1 BULB, 37, Console Flood Lamp
Instrument Panel
Figure 08A-105
2000 parts catalog
PRODUCT DETAILS
Other Names: Ashtray Lamp, Courtesy Lamp, 04608669ab, Lamp-Ash Receiver
Description:
2001-03, quartz. 2001-05. Convertible,. Mega cab, ashtray.
Different descriptions, but both are shown in the trim bezel for the cubby.
4608669AA 1 LAMP, Ash Receiver
L0000037 1 BULB, 37, Console Flood Lamp
Instrument Panel
Figure 08A-105
2000 parts catalog
PRODUCT DETAILS
Other Names: Ashtray Lamp, Courtesy Lamp, 04608669ab, Lamp-Ash Receiver
Description:
2001-03, quartz. 2001-05. Convertible,. Mega cab, ashtray.
www.factorymoparparts.com wrote:HIS PART FITS
Make Model Year Body & Trim Engine & Transmission
Chrysler Aspen 2007 Limited 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Dakota 2010 Big Horn, Laramie, Lone Star, ST 3.7L V6 - Gas
Dodge Dakota 2009 Big Horn, Lone Star, ST, TRX4 3.7L V6 - Gas
Dodge Dakota 2008 SLT, ST, SXT, Sport, TRX, TRX4 3.7L V6 - Gas
Dodge Durango 2007 Adventurer, Limited, SLT, SXT 3.7L V6 - Gas, 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Durango 2006 Adventurer, Limited, SLT, SXT 3.7L V6 - Gas, 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Durango 2005 Limited, SLT, ST 3.7L V6 - Gas, 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Neon 2005 SE, SRT-4, SXT 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
Dodge Ram 1500 2008 Laramie, SLT, SXT 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Ram 1500 2007 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Ram 1500 2006 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas
Dodge Ram 2500 2009 Laramie, SLT, SXT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 2500 2008 Laramie, SLT, SXT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 2500 2007 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 5.9L L6 - Diesel, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 2500 2006 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 5.9L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 3500 2009 Laramie, SLT, SXT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 3500 2008 Laramie, SLT, SXT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 3500 2007 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 5.9L L6 - Diesel, 6.7L L6 - Diesel
Dodge Ram 3500 2006 Laramie, SLT 5.7L V8 - Gas, 5.9L L6 - Diesel
Ram Dakota 2011 Big Horn, Laramie, SLT, ST 3.7L V6 - Gas
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Re: 2003 SRT DD
Lookin good!
for the radio can you take off some of the peripherals? personally i would just want bluetooth and radio... ya those cubby lights were easy to find i used to have dozens of them when i resold parts.... did those, glovebox locks and lights, trunk poppers. those thing are usually a dime a dozen in the yards.. then just put in a 73(i think) type led bulb and you were good to go
for the radio can you take off some of the peripherals? personally i would just want bluetooth and radio... ya those cubby lights were easy to find i used to have dozens of them when i resold parts.... did those, glovebox locks and lights, trunk poppers. those thing are usually a dime a dozen in the yards.. then just put in a 73(i think) type led bulb and you were good to go
2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxtSold
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Allegedly still available, $9.00 from Mopar.
Probably not going to get new factory wiring for it though, as like I said, I think they decontented those after 2000. You would still need to do like said, run power from the console shifter light.
IIRC bulb number 37 and 72 are the same base. But for David, an LED won't do, it would have to be the oem #37 bulb.
http://carbonitecummins.com/Documents/C ... ghting.pdf
Probably not going to get new factory wiring for it though, as like I said, I think they decontented those after 2000. You would still need to do like said, run power from the console shifter light.
IIRC bulb number 37 and 72 are the same base. But for David, an LED won't do, it would have to be the oem #37 bulb.
http://carbonitecummins.com/Documents/C ... ghting.pdf
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Re: 2003 SRT DD
ahh ya i doubt they make a factory kit to add those.. the earlier models had wiring in place but i believe the 03+ didnt have taped up plugs like 00-12 did.. the underhood light was one i never saw fully in tact... always wanted one but never could get it all together
2003 neon se crashed
1998 neon highline Sold
2005 neon sxtSold
2017 Volkswagen CC Rline Exec. 2.0t
"Sorry you are so scared of a possible mechanical problem that you will drive an ugly transportation appliance. I'll keep living a colorful life." -some guy about a camry
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Thanks all for posting the part numbers but, without a new OEM wiring harness, I'll have to live without one.occasional demons wrote: ↑Wed Sep 05, 2018 2:35 pmAllegedly still available, $9.00 from Mopar.
Probably not going to get new factory wiring for it though, as like I said, I think they decontented those after 2000. You would still need to do like said, run power from the console shifter light.
IIRC bulb number 37 and 72 are the same base. But for David, an LED won't do, it would have to be the oem #37 bulb.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
I think 2000 was the only year that had them? My '01 was built in 2000, and it doesn't have a cubby light or wiring.
If 2000 MY was indeed all that had them, a 2000 dash harness would not work in your SRT anyways, even if you could source a new harness.
Even an '01/'02 harness has different firewall connectors, so going completely oem is not an option.
But if you don't mind fudging things a little and do not have traction control, there is a way to install it without cutting or splicing anything.
From Neons.org:
But if not, it's a whole new source to find cubby lights in the JY's.
If 2000 MY was indeed all that had them, a 2000 dash harness would not work in your SRT anyways, even if you could source a new harness.
Even an '01/'02 harness has different firewall connectors, so going completely oem is not an option.
But if you don't mind fudging things a little and do not have traction control, there is a way to install it without cutting or splicing anything.
From Neons.org:
All you are using is the terminal holder part of the salvage yard cubby connector. Probably the only source there is for the pigtail, unless you can find an oem replacement for the newer vehicles listed above.ChryNeonGuy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:16 pmI feel the need to clarify this post to save A LOT of aggravation. To retrofit the cubby hole/cup holder light light you need to do the following: #1 locate part 4608669AA Chrysler calls this the "Ash receiver light." #2 remove the radio surround trim piece first by pulling the knobs of and then removing the 2 phillips head screws located behind the vents. The vents are quite easy to pop out just insert a plastic trim tool on the outboard edge of the vent and it pops right out. The radio surround is held i with a couple clips just give it a tug and it will pop off. #3 remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the trim piece containing the power outlet. Now here is the important part Chrysler has hidden a plug here that would power I am assuming the traction control switch? The orange and black wires are what you are after this is the lighting circuit! use a safety pin or the proper tool and remove the orange and black wires from this wire connector. Next go to the salvage yard and find the proper plug connector that fits your cubby hole light. A quick rummage through a few 2000s Chryslers and you should come up with one in pretty short order. Now take that connector apart and insert your orange and black wires and VOILA no cutting or soldering..takes a bit longer to do it this way but it's well worth it!! NEVER cut factory harnesses unless you absolutely have no other choice!
But if not, it's a whole new source to find cubby lights in the JY's.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Interesting. But I wonder if that connection is still available on mine since I have the Stage 2 with Toys installed?
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
The car leaks oil, trans fluid, and boost like crazy. My first fix was the transmission leak, because it was the easiest to fix. It was coming from the end plate. Here's what it looked like when removed:
About a dozen small bolts hold the cover on. Once removed, I scraped all of the old RTV off of both surfaces. I then reapplied some grey RTV and put the cover back on, hand tight. After the RTV dried for an hour, I torqued the cover down. I didn't actually drive the car for a couple of days after that, so I'm pretty sure it's had enough time to fully cure.
It was topped off with Valvoline ATF+4, which is what I used a couple of weeks ago to top it off. I did some major research into fluids for the transmission and the general consensus from the most knowledgeable SRT owners is that any ATF+4 will work fine, and that there is really no need for any friction modifier. Quaife themselves say there's no need for it with their diffs. So far, if feels a little bit smoother. It's still notchy as hell, though. The T350 is such a smoother transmission than the 850.
So far, the things I enjoy more about the SRT are the power and the exhaust note. Everything else, I liked more about my R/T. Kind of a bummer.
About a dozen small bolts hold the cover on. Once removed, I scraped all of the old RTV off of both surfaces. I then reapplied some grey RTV and put the cover back on, hand tight. After the RTV dried for an hour, I torqued the cover down. I didn't actually drive the car for a couple of days after that, so I'm pretty sure it's had enough time to fully cure.
It was topped off with Valvoline ATF+4, which is what I used a couple of weeks ago to top it off. I did some major research into fluids for the transmission and the general consensus from the most knowledgeable SRT owners is that any ATF+4 will work fine, and that there is really no need for any friction modifier. Quaife themselves say there's no need for it with their diffs. So far, if feels a little bit smoother. It's still notchy as hell, though. The T350 is such a smoother transmission than the 850.
So far, the things I enjoy more about the SRT are the power and the exhaust note. Everything else, I liked more about my R/T. Kind of a bummer.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Wow been a while since I been on here. Congrats on the new ride! Back in a SRT. I see you are already moving parts over from your R/T.
Funny you painted to match your side marker light. I am about to do mine here soon. I did my foglamp bezels recently. And I believe on a white car or in your case, a black car the AMBER side marker just sticks out. There are a lot of cars that do not have side markers on the front end. So I am not sure why the Neon had one. Just an extra level of safety I guess. But like someone pointed out, it does seem odd up close. Kind of like the foglight covers on the 00-01 Neon. When the foglamps look soo much better. Now on a OB SRT-4 or perhaps red, its no big deal. I know they make silver or black aftermarket replacements on eBay too. I had a set on my old 03 PX8 SRT-4 I believe. I would have to find pictures.
So what is the history on the car from the previous owner when it comes to maintenance major? Clutch/timing belt etc etc
Curious what kind of boost leaks you find. That is always fun, hunting those things down :rolleyes:
Yes, the transmission is notchy as hell. T350 is soo much better. Makes driving more enjoyable in the R/T. I miss my 01 R/T at times, but it just didn't have enough power for me anyhow. Get one around 160whp then that will change things I am sure.
I run the RP Synchromax. Always had good luck with it. Might try the Valvoline ATF+4. Yeah you don't need the LSD additive.
Funny you painted to match your side marker light. I am about to do mine here soon. I did my foglamp bezels recently. And I believe on a white car or in your case, a black car the AMBER side marker just sticks out. There are a lot of cars that do not have side markers on the front end. So I am not sure why the Neon had one. Just an extra level of safety I guess. But like someone pointed out, it does seem odd up close. Kind of like the foglight covers on the 00-01 Neon. When the foglamps look soo much better. Now on a OB SRT-4 or perhaps red, its no big deal. I know they make silver or black aftermarket replacements on eBay too. I had a set on my old 03 PX8 SRT-4 I believe. I would have to find pictures.
So what is the history on the car from the previous owner when it comes to maintenance major? Clutch/timing belt etc etc
Curious what kind of boost leaks you find. That is always fun, hunting those things down :rolleyes:
Yes, the transmission is notchy as hell. T350 is soo much better. Makes driving more enjoyable in the R/T. I miss my 01 R/T at times, but it just didn't have enough power for me anyhow. Get one around 160whp then that will change things I am sure.
I run the RP Synchromax. Always had good luck with it. Might try the Valvoline ATF+4. Yeah you don't need the LSD additive.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
If you don't mind my threadjacking for a minute... would the harness for an ATX shifter bezel work with the cubby light? That is, if there is an ATX harness. I know that the ATX bezel lights up when the headlights are turned on so I'm assuming that there is some way it is connected to a power source nearby.
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon 'til It Dies" Club #10
Re: 2003 SRT DD
Yes, the SRT has the ATX light source. That's what I connected my light to.
I still need to buy or make a boost leak tester. I'm not looking forward to chasing down the leak; it's probably somewhere really hard to get to.
The timing belt was replaced around 100K. The clutch is brand new OEM, with an AGP fork. It was just barely broken in when I bought it.MyNeonSaysHi wrote: ↑Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:24 pmSo what is the history on the car from the previous owner when it comes to maintenance major? Clutch/timing belt etc etc
Curious what kind of boost leaks you find. That is always fun, hunting those things down :rolleyes:
I still need to buy or make a boost leak tester. I'm not looking forward to chasing down the leak; it's probably somewhere really hard to get to.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Thanks for your response and for not being upset at my threadjacking. I bought the 4608669AB (Mopar has superseded the part number) and the L0000037 bulb- now to make my first trip to a JY to find the harness pigtail.
Hey, how do you insert the L0000037 bulb into the light fixture?
EDIT: At the Dayton, OH meet a few weeks ago, OD showed me that the bulb came already installed in the fixture (stupid me!). I still need to get a pigtail.
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
The car has been hard to start lately. After some reading, I think it's the fuel pressure regulator. My gas mileage has been shit, too. I don't know if they're related.
I ordered a new PS belt because mine is squeaking when cold and it's driving me nuts. I really hope it's not the tensioner.
I ordered a new PS belt because mine is squeaking when cold and it's driving me nuts. I really hope it's not the tensioner.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Sounds like the FPR! Only running top tier gas? My 1st gen had the same issue. New FPR fixed it.
Or... the pump! They tend to go out
Or... the pump! They tend to go out
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
I'm pretty sure it's the FPR. Premium gas only. Aside from the hard start (which is mostly better if I let the pump prime before cranking it over) things seem pretty normal. The bad mileage is probably because my drive is all back roads with lots of stop lights.
I highly recommend these Continental belts:
I put another one like it on the R/T and it was great. They stay silent for a long time and they fit perfectly.
I really want to tackle the boost leak. This car made 275 hp and 320 ftlbs to the front wheels, without a boost leak. The boost gauge is showing about 12 psi right now, so it's about six pounds shy, according to the original owner. I have no clue where it's coming from. The hot and cold side pipes look fine and are tight. It could be a vacuum line or the pipe that comes off the turbo, or even a weld in the intercooler. I just don't know until I get a boost leak tester and run some air through it. It's driving me nuts knowing that I'm probably leaving about fifty horses on the table.
I highly recommend these Continental belts:
I put another one like it on the R/T and it was great. They stay silent for a long time and they fit perfectly.
I really want to tackle the boost leak. This car made 275 hp and 320 ftlbs to the front wheels, without a boost leak. The boost gauge is showing about 12 psi right now, so it's about six pounds shy, according to the original owner. I have no clue where it's coming from. The hot and cold side pipes look fine and are tight. It could be a vacuum line or the pipe that comes off the turbo, or even a weld in the intercooler. I just don't know until I get a boost leak tester and run some air through it. It's driving me nuts knowing that I'm probably leaving about fifty horses on the table.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
I need to look into getting a belt at some point since my car has all the original belts. They seem to be fine with minimal cracking. I usually only got gates. but continental looks to be good too!JeremyJ wrote: ↑Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:25 amI'm pretty sure it's the FPR. Premium gas only. Aside from the hard start (which is mostly better if I let the pump prime before cranking it over) things seem pretty normal. The bad mileage is probably because my drive is all back roads with lots of stop lights.
I highly recommend these Continental belts:
I put another one like it on the R/T and it was great. They stay silent for a long time and they fit perfectly.
I really want to tackle the boost leak. This car made 275 hp and 320 ftlbs to the front wheels, without a boost leak. The boost gauge is showing about 12 psi right now, so it's about six pounds shy, according to the original owner. I have no clue where it's coming from. The hot and cold side pipes look fine and are tight. It could be a vacuum line or the pipe that comes off the turbo, or even a weld in the intercooler. I just don't know until I get a boost leak tester and run some air through it. It's driving me nuts knowing that I'm probably leaving about fifty horses on the table.
That is very good numbers for just a Stage 2 car with WGA ,injectors and 3'' downpipe on a Diablo tune on pump 91/93 I take it?! Just a preloaded S2 Diablo tune or a custom email tune? Have a wideband to monitor AFR at WOT? Use the diablo tool to see if you get any KR at WOT? You have the previous owners dyno graphs?
Yes a boost leak test is a must! If you are losing 6lbs, you have a massive leak somewhere. Could be a number of areas. Most common I see is the chargepipe where it mounts to the bottom of the turbo. Also the lower pressure pipe side where it connects to the hotside of the intercooler. Very tight space there. Also if its the original turbo with a ton of miles it might be losing its steam
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
Right now it has a canned Diablo 93 tune, 3" catted DP, 2.5" cat-back, 55mm TB, and a slightly larger front mount. He has some dyno graphs for it, but I don't know if he gave them to me. I don't think he did. I have images of them in a text conversation, though. The power came on strong until about 4800 and then dropped off. Torque peaked really low. I don't have a wideband and I haven't messed with the Diablo, so I don't know much about how it runs at its peak. I'd like to stick a wideband on it at some point. I also have a 3" cat-back for it in my garage that I want to install soon, too. That'll help with the top end a bit.
The turbo sounds alright. I really hope that's not the issue. How the hell do I get to the charge pipe? I assume I need to crawl under it and reach up behind the motor to tighten it. Can it be reached from the top?
The turbo sounds alright. I really hope that's not the issue. How the hell do I get to the charge pipe? I assume I need to crawl under it and reach up behind the motor to tighten it. Can it be reached from the top?
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
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Re: 2003 SRT DD
The 93 canned tunes seem to run lean from what I remember. I wouldn't trust any canned tune on a turbocharged car without having a wideband and monitoring knock. https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f384/a ... ne-576021/ Lots of various threads about it. https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f384/h ... ne-604140/
Yeah the direct fit intercooler or the TB will not really add any power since the stock TB/intake manifold doesn't become a bottleneck until like 450whp and even at that level its fine. The intercooler should help with intake temps though and help that power last longer. I know my CCA direct fit was garbage so I went with a used MPX unit with SDK crash bar. Car runs much cooler.
Since you are at only 12 psi you should be fine wihout a wideband. But once you get the boost up you really need a wideband to see how lean/rich you are running at WOT. Also monitor KR with your Diablo tool.
Yeah 3'' all the way is nice!
Chargepipe can be a pain. Removing intake of course since you will need to for a boost leak test. The worm clamp should be accessible by just removing the intake. Yes from the top. Don't mess with it if it is not leaking boost of course. Talking about the chargepipe that mounts to the bottom of the turbo.
Yeah the direct fit intercooler or the TB will not really add any power since the stock TB/intake manifold doesn't become a bottleneck until like 450whp and even at that level its fine. The intercooler should help with intake temps though and help that power last longer. I know my CCA direct fit was garbage so I went with a used MPX unit with SDK crash bar. Car runs much cooler.
Since you are at only 12 psi you should be fine wihout a wideband. But once you get the boost up you really need a wideband to see how lean/rich you are running at WOT. Also monitor KR with your Diablo tool.
Yeah 3'' all the way is nice!
Chargepipe can be a pain. Removing intake of course since you will need to for a boost leak test. The worm clamp should be accessible by just removing the intake. Yes from the top. Don't mess with it if it is not leaking boost of course. Talking about the chargepipe that mounts to the bottom of the turbo.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
Re: 2003 SRT DD
Good to know. I'll update when I get a chance to mess with it. Also, keep in mind the car is Stage 2, so it has larger injectors that are better suited for the tune. I don't think Stage 2 cars have the lean issue that stock cars do.
I've been looking at widebands for a while and I don't know which one I want. I'm leaning toward the Autometer Ultra Lite wideband gauge, so it matches the other gauges. I know the AEM is good, but I hate how it looks. I'm super anal about my gauges matching. I also like the Zeitronix, but I don't want to find a place to mount the display. I might end up with a damn pillar pod at some point. I used to think they were awesome, but now I find them kind of a nuisance. They don't sell the OEM pods anymore, so I think my only option now is the pillar.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that my passenger side axle is taking a shit. It's been popping during tight turns since I bought the car, but now it's popping during acceleration. I'm feeling uncomfortable driving it at this point. I think my only option for replacement is Gator Axles, from Modern. I definitely don't need DSS axles and I don't trust the Rock Auto selection, because they all look to be regular Neon axles. This car is getting expensive to maintain.
I've been looking at widebands for a while and I don't know which one I want. I'm leaning toward the Autometer Ultra Lite wideband gauge, so it matches the other gauges. I know the AEM is good, but I hate how it looks. I'm super anal about my gauges matching. I also like the Zeitronix, but I don't want to find a place to mount the display. I might end up with a damn pillar pod at some point. I used to think they were awesome, but now I find them kind of a nuisance. They don't sell the OEM pods anymore, so I think my only option now is the pillar.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that my passenger side axle is taking a shit. It's been popping during tight turns since I bought the car, but now it's popping during acceleration. I'm feeling uncomfortable driving it at this point. I think my only option for replacement is Gator Axles, from Modern. I definitely don't need DSS axles and I don't trust the Rock Auto selection, because they all look to be regular Neon axles. This car is getting expensive to maintain.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
Re: 2003 SRT DD
Since FPRs go for almost $200, I've been on the lookout for a cheaper option. I ended up purchasing an entire 50,000 mile SRT fuel pump setup from Vitor on the .org for $100. I plan to pop the regulator off that assembly and swap it into the Neon. That should take care of the hard start and it gives me a backup fuel pump if I ever need it. I also found some replacement axles for about fifty bucks each, on Rock Auto. I did some research and they are indeed SRT specific axles. I'm going to order one as soon as I have the cash. I haven't driven the car in about a month because of the bad axle, so I'm eager to get these parts swapped out.
Oh, and the battery is dying. It's the one I pulled from the R/T when I bought the SRT. I don't know how old it is, so I'm not surprised it's dying. Just bummed.
Oh, and the battery is dying. It's the one I pulled from the R/T when I bought the SRT. I don't know how old it is, so I'm not surprised it's dying. Just bummed.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
Re: 2003 SRT DD
I finally got a new axle for the car. These Trakmotives seem to be pretty good for the money. At least that's what I've read. I only paid about fifty bucks for it.
Here's the used FPR that I picked up. I really hope it works.
Right now I just need a dry weekend to put this stuff in there. I hate working on the car when it's cold out. Winter sucks.
Here's the used FPR that I picked up. I really hope it works.
Right now I just need a dry weekend to put this stuff in there. I hate working on the car when it's cold out. Winter sucks.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT
Re: 2003 SRT DD
I installed the FPR and axle yesterday. The FPR went in without much fuss, but the axle was a pain in the ass. The biggest problem was the strut, honestly. As soon as I released it from the knuckle, it extended down onto the axle and wouldn't budge. I had to remove the tie rod and contort the knuckle in some odd angles to get that strut to not shove down onto the outer axle boot. The only way to get it back together was to swap in one of my coilovers, because they're shorter and wouldn't push down as far. I managed to get the entire passenger side buttoned up after fighting with it for a little while. Then I decided to swap the driver's side strut/spring assembly for a coilover, so the front end would sit even. I had the same issue with the OEM strut pressing down onto the axle boot really hard. While trying to push down on the control arm to make more room, the driver's axle popped out of the transmission and started dumping fluid. I gave up at this point. It was dark and freezing cold out anyway.
I think I'm going to order a driver's side axle and just swap that out while I already have it all apart. It's going to be a struggle to get that strut out, though. It's really wedged in there. I've never had a strut push down on the axle like these. It's weird. I wonder if it has to do with the Koni inserts. They also have Mopar springs, but I've installed a set of those before and they didn't give me any trouble (granted, that was on an ACR and their struts are a little different). I'll try to get a picture of it tonight. It's weird.
I think I'm going to order a driver's side axle and just swap that out while I already have it all apart. It's going to be a struggle to get that strut out, though. It's really wedged in there. I've never had a strut push down on the axle like these. It's weird. I wonder if it has to do with the Koni inserts. They also have Mopar springs, but I've installed a set of those before and they didn't give me any trouble (granted, that was on an ACR and their struts are a little different). I'll try to get a picture of it tonight. It's weird.
02 base -> 05 SRT ACR -> 96 sedan -> 99 R/T coupe -> 02 R/T -> 03 SRT