SRT Swap ??'s Need an answer ASAP Please!

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:12 am

Is it absolutely necessary to have to install the ABS parts when doing the SRT swap? If it is, what exactly do I need? Here is the parts list I have so far.

Engine
Transmission
All Engine and Transmission Mounts
Intercooler Piping
Intercooler
Complete Engine Wiring Harness
Complete Engine Bay Wiring Harness
Fuel Pump Assembly
NVLD Pump w/ Brackets
Instrument Cluster
Boost Gauge
Axles
Shift Cables
All A/C Lines
Alternator
Starter
PS Pump
PS Lines
PS Cooler
A/C Compressor
Complete turbo assembly
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Gas, Brake and Clutch Assembly
Radiator Hoses
PCM
SKIM Module w/Ignition Cylinder
Door Lock and Trunk Lock
Key w/ Key Pad
Coolant Bottle
O2 Sensors
Radiator w/ Fans
Air Intake Piping and Airbox
ABS Module
All Vacuum Lines and 3 Solenoids
Complete Interior Wiring Harness

If anyone sees anything I'm missing please speak up ASAP as I am ordering the swap tomorrow and I want to have EVERYTHING that I need.

Edit: Added ABS Module, All Vacuum Lines and 3 Solenoids and Interior Wiring Harness

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:39 am

You dont' need the ABS module to get the car running, you'll just have the ABS light on the dash on since the computer can't find the ABS module.

Your list looks good but I don't see the body harness on there b/c you'll need that to hook up the NVLD pump as the 00-02 is different from the 03+ harness.

Other than that you're list looks good, there will be a few little things you'll be missing through like this one small evap hose coming off the perportional valve in the engine bay that runs along the firewall. That tube goes to one of the vacuum lines. The major stuff you look good one but there's always the little things that'll get ya. If you plan on running the SRT brake setup you'll need the SRT rack, calipers, knuckles, and flex brake line to the calipers. Also, you listed the AC compressor, you'll also need the AC lines as well since the 03+ lines are different from the 02 lines. In 02 the drier was against the firewall, in 03 to accomidate the relocated coolant bottle bottle they moved it back to the fender as it was in I believe 01.

refect · Post by **refect** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:52 am

i didnt hook up the abs stuff on mine...i just used the regular non abs brake booster. the result was a few plugs left unplugged in the engine bay that went to abs stuff...my srt brakes still work great without it and so does teh motor.

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:56 am

BTW, i will be using my stock brake setup. What is the ABS Module? The silver blcok where the brake lines come out of?

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:33 am

Correct, it's the big silver block the brake lines come out of. If you didn't have rear disc brakes on your Neon then you don't have ABS and when you do your swap you have an extra black plug on the engine bay harness that would have gone to the ABS module which would replace what you see on your car where the brake lines come out of.

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 2:05 pm

Will my A/C dryer and condensor work with the 03+ A/C lines? Do I nee d the battery tray?

Post by **Diablo0** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:57 am

Condensor should but your dryer as I'm guessing is more on the firewall than in the hole along the fender. Where the dryer is on the 02s is where the coolant bottle sits on the SRT-4 so you'll need the SRT dryer. Now... IF your dryer is in the fender hole area then you should be alright or pretty damn close to it being okay and you being able to use your AC system. Both of my R/Ts were on the firewall which is why I couln't use it. Also, from what I understand, once the dryer has been opened to the outside air it's sorta garbage and needs to be replaced so you may want to check into that more as I could be wrong

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:30 am

I don't mean to hi-jack but I didn't want to start another thread.

Srt-4 Engine

The winner on this auction wasn't able to pay so I got a second chance offer and I can purchase everything in the auction for $1,400. I asked him to throw in the shifter and cables and he said he would.

Is there anything else I would need to do the swap that I can ask him to throw in?

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:35 pm

apk2k6 wrote:I don't mean to hi-jack but I didn't want to start another thread.

Srt-4 Engine

The winner on this auction wasn't able to pay so I got a second chance offer and I can purchase everything in the auction for $1,400. I asked him to throw in the shifter and cables and he said he would.

Is there anything else I would need to do the swap that I can ask him to throw in?

Maybe I just missed it, but I didn't see any of the electronics as far as PCM or any of that....you DEFINATELY need that. Axles are also a pretty important part....

Josh

Post by **Diablo0** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:00 pm

For that price I HIGHLY suggest just looking for a donor car. The PCM is a very important part as well is all the wiring which if you had to buy new would cost you out the ass. Finding one used may be a little hard as well since not many people up and sell their engine bay harness off their SRT unless the total the car and want to part it out. The engine bay harness is over $1,000 alone. Things like the axles I wouldn't worry too much about as they're pretty cheap at around $120 each or less if you get them through BlackRoseRacing. I can not stress enough... a donor car will help you out a lot in the long run from having to track down used parts or having to pay out the ass for new.

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:33 pm

Donor Car: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286605

I have NOT seen any pics of the donor in that link yet, so I can't say for sure what shape it's in......email the guy for pics if you want.

Josh

J-Villa · Post by **J-Villa** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:28 pm

^^ yea i saw taht today...why can't i have money? lol

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:40 pm

bump.

i plan on helping mike (drvr02rt) with this.. hes got an 02R/T so he has factory rear disc and ABS.. is there any difference in the SRT/03+ and the 02 ABS? if not that would save some trouble. also anyone know whats involved with the interoir harness.. do we have to tear apart the dash? i know the connections near the clutch pedal are a PITA cause i helped josh (evil) over aim figure them out. any help is very much appreciated

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:53 pm

Brake wise, the rear is about 95% the same the only difference being the thickness of the rotors and the knuckle. I confirmed this today from what tamadrumr88 has found out, the attachment for the tension strut on the knuckle is about 10cm or so farther in towards the center of the car than on the Neon. With that change there may also be some change to the overall offset but the overall brake setup is the same, just a thicker rotor and probably different pads. The calipers are the same just powdercoated red.

The body harness isn't very hard you just have to pull nearly every plastic piece off like the door sills, b-pillars, c-pillars, front seats, rear seats, after thats done it's pretty strait forward. The body harness runs from the dash by the clutch pedal as you said above all the way to the tail lights. You'll also need the trunk lid harness that runs the trunk relase and 3rd brake light as the plug is different where it plugs into the body harness. There really isn't any need to touch the dash harness.

The only thing you'll need to do is move on wire over one pin on the engine bay harness that passes through the firewall. Not moving the wire will result in your front drivers turn signal not working. It's a light green/orange wire thats in the pin 4 location and nees to be moved over to the pin 5 location which is empty.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:55 pm

thanks.. that was my one worry.. having to tear the dash up.

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:31 am

OK I'm in the middle of doing the swap..my motor is out and I'm putting the SRT Engine bay harness is. How the hell do I disconnect the engine bay harness inside the car? I've found the little box it plugs into up under the dash by the clutch pedal and i've pulled the red locking tab out but the damn connectors wont come out of the box!!! It's like they are stuck in there. Is there a trick to it or what? Just FYI I know I need to push on the sides too...I'm no idiot.

Post by **Diablo0** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:38 am

Yah that plug is a royal PITA. In the process of taking mine out I broke one of the clips on the side from pulilng and strungling with it so much

It's a PITA... just gotta keep messing with it no matter how much your fingers hurt

c2k · Post by **c2k** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:54 am

Diablo0 wrote: Yah that plug is a royal PITA. In the process of taking mine out I broke one of the clips on the side from pulilng and strungling with it so much It's a PITA... just gotta keep messing with it no matter how much your fingers hurt

winnAr!!!!!!!!!!!

it hurts like a mofo afterwards.. but pretty soon, it'll all be worth it

Adam K. · Post by **Adam K.** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:13 pm

Drvr02RT wrote:OK I'm in the middle of doing the swap..my motor is out and I'm putting the SRT Engine bay harness is. How the hell do I disconnect the engine bay harness inside the car? I've found the little box it plugs into up under the dash by the clutch pedal and i've pulled the red locking tab out but the damn connectors wont come out of the box!!! It's like they are stuck in there. Is there a trick to it or what? Just FYI I know I need to push on the sides too...I'm no idiot.

You did remove the two screews holding it in?

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:45 pm

Yeah I removed the screws. Its out now. My motor is finally out and I'm going to be doing the fuel pump, fuel line, and emissions tonight. Possibly the a/c stuff too.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:50 pm

Drvr02RT wrote:Yeah I removed the screws. Its out now. My motor is finally out and I'm going to be doing the fuel pump, fuel line, and emissions tonight. Possibly the a/c stuff too.

man i wish i didnt have to cover people at work, id be helping =(

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 3:29 am

Well all I have left to do is rewire the car put in the NVLD pump, raise the tank and drop the motor in. Hopefully it will start tomorrow night.

I do need a favor though. Does anyone have a picture of where to mount the coolant bottle?

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 9:52 am

Drvr02RT wrote:Well all I have left to do is rewire the car put in the NVLD pump, raise the tank and drop the motor in. Hopefully it will start tomorrow night.

I do need a favor though. Does anyone have a picture of where to mount the coolant bottle?

I DO

Post by **Diablo0** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 12:49 pm

I have a better one though

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 3:41 pm

hey mike.. you suck, i was up by you today(2pmish), was gonna stop over and help for a few hours(9pmish), but your phones are dead? get a new phone?

oh well i guess its the thought that counts, gonna be done by tomorrrow?

Drvr02RT · Post by **Drvr02RT** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:13 am

Yeah sorry I switched carriers again. I posted it on neontuners though. Anyways... well the car will be done tomorrow I have to run to the hardware store and get some bolts but all that is left is axles, interior wiring and fuel tank. If your not doing anything tomorrow let me know, and extra set of hands would get things done much faster.

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:11 pm

Can I use the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder from a regular neon on an srt 4 engine swap?

Adam K. · Post by **Adam K.** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:23 pm

dave09092 wrote:Can I use the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder from a regular neon on an srt 4 engine swap?

No you will need the SRT-4 parts along with new clutch pedal. You can get away with just buying a 2003 SRT-4 clutch pedal assembly without buying the whole clutch/brake assembly. You just remove the assembly and swap out the clutch pedal itself. The bracket is the same.

refect · Post by **refect** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 11:43 pm

Diablo0 wrote:I have a better one though

i used this pic to get an idea where to put mine