How-to: Front anti-sway bar removal and installation
How-to: Front anti-sway bar removal and installation
Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for injury or death by following these instructions.
Anti-sway bars help eliminate body roll in cornering and will give your Neon a more sporty feel. SRT-4 sway bars are a great upgrade and are relatively inexpensive. This modification is simple and offers great bang for your buck.
Tools you will need:
- front anti-sway bar
- bushings for the anti-sway bar
- new end links for the anti-sway bar
- car lift jack and safety stand
- 3/8 drive extension (optional)
- 3/8 drive ratchet
- 13 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- 15 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- vise grip pliers
- ratchet and socket (19 mm) to remove your tires
- torque wrench
- WD-40
Overview:
First we need to get the car up on the safety stands and remove the tires. Next we’ll remove the existing sway bar including the bushings and end links. Using the new bushings and end links, we’ll install the new sway bar. Finally we’ll install the tires and torque the lug nuts to spec.
Start by jacking up the car and placing the safety stands underneath the car. Ensure the car is stable before proceeding. Remove the two front tires.
Remove the two bolts for the bracket that holds the sway bar to the frame of the car using the ratchet and 13 mm socket.
Using the vise grip pliers and the ratchet with the 15 mm socket, remove the old end links.
Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the car.
Place the bushings around the new sway bar. Balance the new sway bar on the jack and raise the sway bar into place.
Install the brackets that hold the sway bar to the frame of the car.
Install the new end links. Tighten the end links until you cannot tighten them anymore. It may seem like you’re over tightening them, but you’re not.
Install your tires, torque your lug nuts, and enjoy
Comments and corrections are welcome
Anti-sway bars help eliminate body roll in cornering and will give your Neon a more sporty feel. SRT-4 sway bars are a great upgrade and are relatively inexpensive. This modification is simple and offers great bang for your buck.
Tools you will need:
- front anti-sway bar
- bushings for the anti-sway bar
- new end links for the anti-sway bar
- car lift jack and safety stand
- 3/8 drive extension (optional)
- 3/8 drive ratchet
- 13 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- 15 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- vise grip pliers
- ratchet and socket (19 mm) to remove your tires
- torque wrench
- WD-40
Overview:
First we need to get the car up on the safety stands and remove the tires. Next we’ll remove the existing sway bar including the bushings and end links. Using the new bushings and end links, we’ll install the new sway bar. Finally we’ll install the tires and torque the lug nuts to spec.
Start by jacking up the car and placing the safety stands underneath the car. Ensure the car is stable before proceeding. Remove the two front tires.
Remove the two bolts for the bracket that holds the sway bar to the frame of the car using the ratchet and 13 mm socket.
Using the vise grip pliers and the ratchet with the 15 mm socket, remove the old end links.
Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the car.
Place the bushings around the new sway bar. Balance the new sway bar on the jack and raise the sway bar into place.
Install the brackets that hold the sway bar to the frame of the car.
Install the new end links. Tighten the end links until you cannot tighten them anymore. It may seem like you’re over tightening them, but you’re not.
Install your tires, torque your lug nuts, and enjoy
Comments and corrections are welcome
Last edited by daaboots on Wed May 07, 2008 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Yup, you got itSYRYS04 wrote:So the front sway bar goes underneath and a strut bar goes on top, across the engine correct??
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No prob guys.Nutmeg wrote:A set of sways might be in need.welchspro wrote:Thanks for the write-up, this may be something i'll look into this summer
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- TheRandom1
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i did, i replace my sways wit da srts and none of the bolts broke and i have a 2000
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I did it on my '01, but I soaked everything a week before hand with penetrating oil. Even then I could only get three all the way out. I was able to get the 4th out enough to rotate the bracket out of the way. Then when I installed the new crossmember they all came out with no trouble, I guess the oil worked on the rust for a few months! I did install shorter bolts in everything that mounts to the new crossmember, so the ends aren't sticking out past the weldnuts to rust and expand. I also used stainless for the sway brackets, but couldn't find SS for the steering gear. The antiseize and fresh paint should help tho.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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i didnt use anyting to grease them, just took dem off
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No problemDoubtedNeon wrote:good review thanks a ton!
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Soak them in PB Blaster for a good 2 weeks before you attempt to take them out. I thought mine was coming out pretty easy and then there was no resistance and the bolt head was in the socket. I let the others soak for 2-3 weeks and they all came out very slowly.
I spent a few hours yesterday and a few today drilling out that bolt. I have busted at least 4 drill bits just to get thru the bolt. Bought a M8x1.25 tap and that didn't work either. I am just going to have to drill the shit out of it and use an insert or have somebody weld a nut in the hole.
I spent a few hours yesterday and a few today drilling out that bolt. I have busted at least 4 drill bits just to get thru the bolt. Bought a M8x1.25 tap and that didn't work either. I am just going to have to drill the shit out of it and use an insert or have somebody weld a nut in the hole.
Jerome
'03 SXT...DODGE NEON CONES
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'03 SXT...DODGE NEON CONES
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The screws of the latches usually brake when you try to remove them
So I think it is best, if you just want to swap the bushings, you try to unscrew the both front screws first. Carefully and soak them with lot´s of WD40. If they really brake, you can easily reach the welded nuts within the subframe with the rest of that damn screw and knock them out with a chisel or something like that.
I did so and used loose screws M8 instead to fix the latch again later.
The other two screws are more critical. I only unscrewed them as much as needed to be able to remove the bushings - so I did not try to remove them at all.
So I think it is best, if you just want to swap the bushings, you try to unscrew the both front screws first. Carefully and soak them with lot´s of WD40. If they really brake, you can easily reach the welded nuts within the subframe with the rest of that damn screw and knock them out with a chisel or something like that.
I did so and used loose screws M8 instead to fix the latch again later.
The other two screws are more critical. I only unscrewed them as much as needed to be able to remove the bushings - so I did not try to remove them at all.
a neon - what else ?
Clever idea !!Gnuserup wrote: I only unscrewed them as much as needed to be able to remove the bushings - so I did not try to remove them at all.
The only thing that I would add, is that out here in the Midwestern US -- It is necessary to use a very strong rust penetrant, such as PB Blaster or Kroil.
In the Midwest, WD-40 is almost useless.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009