How-to: Front anti-sway bar removal and installation

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 8:20 pm

Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for injury or death by following these instructions.

Anti-sway bars help eliminate body roll in cornering and will give your Neon a more sporty feel. SRT-4 sway bars are a great upgrade and are relatively inexpensive. This modification is simple and offers great bang for your buck.

Tools you will need:
- front anti-sway bar
- bushings for the anti-sway bar
- new end links for the anti-sway bar
- car lift jack and safety stand
- 3/8 drive extension (optional)
- 3/8 drive ratchet
- 13 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- 15 mm socket, 3/8 drive
- vise grip pliers
- ratchet and socket (19 mm) to remove your tires
- torque wrench
- WD-40

Overview:
First we need to get the car up on the safety stands and remove the tires. Next we’ll remove the existing sway bar including the bushings and end links. Using the new bushings and end links, we’ll install the new sway bar. Finally we’ll install the tires and torque the lug nuts to spec.

Start by jacking up the car and placing the safety stands underneath the car. Ensure the car is stable before proceeding. Remove the two front tires.

Remove the two bolts for the bracket that holds the sway bar to the frame of the car using the ratchet and 13 mm socket.

Using the vise grip pliers and the ratchet with the 15 mm socket, remove the old end links.

Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the car.

Place the bushings around the new sway bar. Balance the new sway bar on the jack and raise the sway bar into place.

Install the brackets that hold the sway bar to the frame of the car.

Install the new end links. Tighten the end links until you cannot tighten them anymore. It may seem like you’re over tightening them, but you’re not.

Install your tires, torque your lug nuts, and enjoy

Comments and corrections are welcome

SYRYS04 · Post by **SYRYS04** » Wed May 07, 2008 3:49 am

So the front sway bar goes underneath and a strut bar goes on top, across the engine correct??

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Wed May 07, 2008 8:08 am

SYRYS04 wrote:So the front sway bar goes underneath and a strut bar goes on top, across the engine correct??

Yup, you got it

welchspro · Post by **welchspro** » Thu May 08, 2008 1:52 am

Thanks for the write-up, this may be something i'll look into this summer

Nutmeg · Post by **Nutmeg** » Thu May 08, 2008 1:57 am

welchspro wrote:Thanks for the write-up, this may be something i'll look into this summer

A set of sways might be in need.

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Thu May 08, 2008 8:07 am

Nutmeg wrote:
welchspro wrote:Thanks for the write-up, this may be something i'll look into this summer
A set of sways might be in need.

No prob guys.

flhmfd · Post by **flhmfd** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:11 am

do the new endlinks go on easily?

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:52 am

Be careful with the sway bar bracket bolts. I managed to snap all four of mine. Fun times!

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:16 pm

i wish the sways on my ms3 were this easy to install

TheRandom1 · Post by **TheRandom1** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 1:10 am

Has anybody done this and NOT broken the bolts?

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:10 am

i did, i replace my sways wit da srts and none of the bolts broke and i have a 2000

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:50 pm

I did it on my '01, but I soaked everything a week before hand with penetrating oil. Even then I could only get three all the way out. I was able to get the 4th out enough to rotate the bracket out of the way. Then when I installed the new crossmember they all came out with no trouble, I guess the oil worked on the rust for a few months! I did install shorter bolts in everything that mounts to the new crossmember, so the ends aren't sticking out past the weldnuts to rust and expand. I also used stainless for the sway brackets, but couldn't find SS for the steering gear. The antiseize and fresh paint should help tho.

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 2:17 am

i didnt use anyting to grease them, just took dem off

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:27 am

you could also do what people do for lugnuts... put a litle axle grease on them, itll keep them from rusting and locking up on you...

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:39 am

good review thanks a ton!

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:04 am

DoubtedNeon wrote:good review thanks a ton!

No problem

Caraudioholic24 · Post by **Caraudioholic24** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:07 pm

Na I went to take it off to lower my car and managed to snap em off. Bummer

randomZERO · Post by **randomZERO** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:01 am

So i snapped 3 of the 4 while doing my prothane bushing install. I ordered new hardware but my question is after I get the rest of the bolts out what am I looking at as far as difficulty putting them back in as you cant access the bolts in the crossmember?

haste4daylight · Post by **haste4daylight** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:52 pm

i managed to snap one of my bolts... how should i go about getting em out? easy out?

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:46 pm

Must be a back east thing from the roads? Mine came out just fine. I just stuck the ratchet on 'em and turned.

randomZERO · Post by **randomZERO** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 5:28 pm

haste4daylight wrote:i managed to snap one of my bolts... how should i go about getting em out? easy out?

use a small drill bit and hollow what's left of the bolt then an easy out

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:30 pm

Soak them in PB Blaster for a good 2 weeks before you attempt to take them out. I thought mine was coming out pretty easy and then there was no resistance and the bolt head was in the socket. I let the others soak for 2-3 weeks and they all came out very slowly.

I spent a few hours yesterday and a few today drilling out that bolt. I have busted at least 4 drill bits just to get thru the bolt. Bought a M8x1.25 tap and that didn't work either. I am just going to have to drill the shit out of it and use an insert or have somebody weld a nut in the hole.

chappybmode · Post by **chappybmode** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:26 am

mine broke as well, but instead of ordering new hardwar i ran to the hardware store and got stainless steel self tapers...idk how good that idea was but they are still holding like a champ and have had some serious abuse

fox02neon · Post by **fox02neon** » Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:49 am

This is a nice write up!

Gnuserup · Post by **Gnuserup** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:32 am

The screws of the latches usually brake when you try to remove them

So I think it is best, if you just want to swap the bushings, you try to unscrew the both front screws first. Carefully and soak them with lot´s of WD40. If they really brake, you can easily reach the welded nuts within the subframe with the rest of that damn screw and knock them out with a chisel or something like that.
I did so and used loose screws M8 instead to fix the latch again later.
The other two screws are more critical. I only unscrewed them as much as needed to be able to remove the bushings - so I did not try to remove them at all.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:47 am

Gnuserup wrote: I only unscrewed them as much as needed to be able to remove the bushings - so I did not try to remove them at all.

Clever idea !!

The only thing that I would add, is that out here in the Midwestern US -- It is necessary to use a very strong rust penetrant, such as PB Blaster or Kroil.
In the Midwest, WD-40 is almost useless.

- Nick