How-To: Installing Oil Pressure and Volt Gauges

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:48 pm

You should be able to no problems. It's with the 03+ years that throw codes. In either case, I personally would try and keep the stock unit in there also, mainly for the dummy light function. It would draw your attention quicker than the gauge since your not always checking the gauge while driving.

mr_mopar_neon · Post by **mr_mopar_neon** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:50 pm

good point thanks

Sabersoul · Post by **Sabersoul** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:27 pm

Great write up.

I'll have mine in hopefully in the next few days.

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:41 am

I hooked my sender up to the 2004 se and its hooked up directly, but the guage should still work shouldnt it? I should have a working guage and a code.

Sabersoul · Post by **Sabersoul** » Mon May 04, 2009 11:31 am

I have no idea. I hooked mine up with the T like in the walkthrough so both my gauge and idiot light work.

mr_mopar_neon · Post by **mr_mopar_neon** » Mon May 04, 2009 12:31 pm

what do you mean gauge should still work???

i have my one taped in with out a t peace on my 01 r/t been more then fine

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Mon May 04, 2009 12:47 pm

well even tho i have it hooked up as if it were a 2000 neon the guage should work eh?

mr_mopar_neon · Post by **mr_mopar_neon** » Mon May 04, 2009 3:42 pm

ya the oil psi gauge should work

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Mon May 04, 2009 3:50 pm

well im just wondering why the hell its not. its an Autometer so its a good part.

i just put the oil pressure unit in its place, and re attached the single wire going tot he old unit.

then i ran a line off of the new unit going to my gauge.

so thieres a wire going to it, and off of it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:19 pm

OK, so you have a "tee", the oem sender wired to the original connector, like stock. And you have the Autometer sender wired to the Autometer gauge?
Do you have the AM gauge powered at the gauge location?

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:50 pm

yes, switched power, im running it off my voltage guage to save wire.

mr_mopar_neon · Post by **mr_mopar_neon** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:12 pm

my be make sore the wires are all right and earthed right

Sabersoul · Post by **Sabersoul** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:38 pm

You didn't run it off your dimmer by mistake, did you?

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:43 pm

is it poss. the sender is bad?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon May 04, 2009 10:04 pm

Depending on how much teflon tape you put on the sender, it might not be grounding.

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Tue May 05, 2009 8:13 am

non, i used a compound made by loctite, it does the same thing in liquid form.

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:23 pm

DoubtedNeon wrote:non, i used a compound made by loctite, it does the same thing in liquid form.

What occasional is hinting at, is the sender needs to be in contact with the block so that its grounded. Too much of that loctite might have insulated a connection and broken the ground.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:35 pm

Meh, the liqiud stuff generally won't prevent grounding, like 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape may. Not saying it isn't possible, but I use the liquid all the time with out issue.
I would just remove the wire at the sender and ground it to see if the gauge pegs, or check the wire for voltage. If the gauge still does not work, either it is bad, or something isn't right with the way it's wired.

mr_mopar_neon · Post by **mr_mopar_neon** » Tue May 05, 2009 7:30 pm

DoubtedNeon wrote:non, i used a compound made by loctite, it does the same thing in liquid form.

i used liquid stuff and dint have any probs there i think its so much better then tape

blueneo03 · Post by **blueneo03** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:07 am

alright... question.. i got my gauges.. and i got the oil pres gauge that isnt electric.... so i have to run the polyethylene tubing... what is the best way to do so?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:32 am

1) Buy the copper tubing they sell for oil pressure gauges. Just remember to put a few loops in the tubing for flex.

2) Find a rubber plug in the firewall to run the tubing/wires from the other gauges through. Or drill a hole, and install a grommet.

3) Get an electrical sender type, and not have to worry.

I actually had the plastic tubing melt from exhaust heat. Nothing like an oil fire at 60 mph.

This is with the tubing secured well away from the R/T header with both heat shields installed.

Fortunately most of it blew out by the time I got it pulled over. Fun times.

blueneo03 · Post by **blueneo03** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:18 am

so if i get the copper stuff i shouldnt have to worry about the melting... but where can u get it? home depot? and would u suggest a tubing bender?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:18 pm

AutoZone carries it.

Copper Tubing CLICK ME!

No bender needed.

blueneo03 · Post by **blueneo03** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:38 pm

cool stuff any flare tools needed?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:44 pm

No, just use the connections that come with the gauge. They are compression fittings. They will work on the nylon, or copper tubing.

non-magnum · Post by **non-magnum** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:00 am

so anybody used Oil Filter Sandwich seems like would be way easier install? And how good are the electrical gauges? P.S Our oil filters are so easy to access

orangeneon05 · Post by **orangeneon05** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:12 am

i was wondering the same but in my gauge post someone said that using the plate will not give you an accurate reading like the direct line into the motor.

these are the gauges and questions i asked

viewtopic.php?t=48309

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:22 am

blueneo03 wrote: I've gathered don't use the filter sandwich for the pressure as it wont give a correct reading as it is in the pan not the block.

For pressure, it doesn't matter. Not sure what he meant by being in the pan. The only thing in the pan is the pick up tube. As long as the sender ties into the oil galley before the crank bearings/after the filter, it is going to be accurate. A sandwich will work fine. If you wanted oil temp, then the pan would be the best place to weld in a bung, but the sandwich would be damn near the same, provided you were using a tee into a cooler line. It would need to be where there is flow, otherwise the thermal conductivity to the filter bracket may have some impact.

orangeneon05 · Post by **orangeneon05** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:37 pm

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filt ... hread.aspx

this is the sandwich i was thinking of doing (but the right size this is just for picture purposes) would that work with putting the oil pressure gauge sender unit on the plate in one of those places and then wiring the gauge?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:01 pm

It should work. Just remember, your filter will be tht much lower, (2.0 engine) So staying with the stock size will prolly be your best bet. Some ppl use larger/taller filters.