sidepipe87: A few overdue updates

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:45 am

NP! :thumbup: I mean, If you're not there to bitch at me for selling my INGENIOUS wooden coils, no one will... :sad:
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:51 pm

Nice! :thumbup:
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:23 pm

Well I just got back from a day in Cleveland visiting my very sick friend and I can say a few things about that...

First of all, I already hate the entire state of Ohio for many obvious reasons. I'd never been into Cleveland before and I can say I will never go back there again. That city sucks and it is unattractive to say the least. Almost lost a wheel a few times in some of the nice sunken manhole covers I couldn't swerve to avoid. There were homies galore just milling about the scummy city, however I will say Case Western has a pretty nice campus. If you're from Cleveland.. I'm sorry for you. Better luck next time.

On my way back home I fill up the tank and roll onto the highway and I had driven no more than 20 miles and I hear DING! and look down and the check engine light is on... fuck. Well I quickly decide that it's not flashing, and the car is not overheating and is running at normal temps so fuck it, I'm gonna roll the rest of the 140 miles home and deal with it then. I get home and do the key dance and see P0344... cam position sensor. Fuck me, I replaced it once already, 12/19/08. I know because I kept the box/receipt because it had a lifetime warranty. My dad told me the aftermarket ones are junk and see to go bad a lot. I should've listened to him but it has a lifetime warranty so I guess I return it for another crap one and hope I get some life out of it? It just sucks that it's a royal pain in the ass to replace...
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:16 am

I should've listened to him but it has a lifetime warranty so I guess I return it for another crap one and hope I get some life out of it? It just sucks that it's a royal pain in the ass to replace
Lifetime warranty or not, do you really want to keep changing the thing?
Just remember to loosen up the heater core tubes that are attached to the head, this will make the 8mm bolts holding the cam sensor on easier to access with a 1/4 inch drive extension and ratchet.
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Post by hul kogan » Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:23 am

Cleveland is a scum hole. I agree. Absolutely nothing appeals to me in that city.
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Post by Neon4Life » Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:30 am

Ouch. sucks to hear about the cam position sensor.



pot holes... suck the life outta wheels. blah.
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:21 pm

Chris (BRR) That was the point I was getting at... I don't wanna keep replacing it but for the warranty, I just went and exchanged it and replaced it already. Next time it shits the bed I'll have my dad get me one. I'm sure it'll be more than the $32 I paid initially... I got it from Auto Zone the first time because I needed the part that day so I could drive the car.

Chris - Agreed. I hate the entire state really, it doesn't appeal to me, but you're alright :lol:

Manny - We have TONS of potholes here, it just seems I can usually avoid them better. It's the fucking sunken manhole covers that always get me :roll:

Yeah, It sucks about the CPS, but like I said it's fixed now so I should be able to get at least another year out of it :lol:
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Post by heydockyle » Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:40 pm

sidepipe87 wrote: Manny - We have TONS of potholes here, it just seems I can usually avoid them better. It's the fucking sunken manhole covers that always get me :roll:
That we do. But like you said they are usually avoidable.
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:25 pm

I wanted to go back and see how much I've spent for materials so far in this project.
Overview:

- TYC OEM replacement lights $93
- ND4SPEED mounting brackets $70
- Audi A4/A6 2.5" shrouds (need to open them up to 3" for my projectors) $115
- 3" Hella E55's
- A4 shrouds (came with some projectors) $30

Still need:

- hardware (nylock nuts, bolts) freebie from Matt???
- Nissan sealant freebie from dealer!
- DDM 4300K HID kit and relay harness around $85

So I've spent $308 so far and need to buy an HID kit so I should be around $400 all said and done with this project. All things considered, that's not too bad. Yeah it's a lot, but I've spread the purchases out over a period of a few months.
Last edited by sidepipe87 on Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Sabersoul » Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:30 pm

Nice! You're braver than I trying to do this yourself. My biggest concerns would be ruining the oven and not mounting the projectors straight enough. My fiancee likes to cook and with a plasticy smelling oven, she'd kill me. ;)

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:37 pm

Meh, I already cooked the tail lights in there a while back and my mom hasn't said anything :rofl: It doesn't smell anymore. I was more worried about the headlights crazing from the head, but luckily they didn't. Yeah, I'm taking a risk doing these myself but I'm one of those people that HAS to try doing everything themselves at least once. This won't be easy, but I can do it. Also I'll be maintaining the stock aiming points so I'll be able to adjust them. That's why I'm also doing a molded AVS project which is FINALLY getting close to completion. In fact, I'm going out in a bit to sand more.

Anyway, I just got back from the Nissan dealer, and it was a good trip! I gave the guy the part number for the sealer and said I wanted to order some. He asked what it was for then said hold on, he was gonna go check on something. A few minutes later he came back with a blue 3M box and said this was the same as the Nissan stuff, and I could HAVE it. :smile: He took the box away before I could read it but It's thin black 12" strips sandwiched between paper. Looks like the Nissan stuff but thinner and not coiled. I googled it and found out it's 3M Strip Calk window adhesive which is fine because that's essentially the same exact thing anyway. So I'm pumped I got it fo free. Here's what it looks like:

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Last edited by sidepipe87 on Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Speeder » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:40 pm

looks like fun
good luck with them!!!!
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Post by LowNSlow » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:42 pm

VVME > DDM
-John


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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:44 pm

LowNSlow wrote:VVME > DDM
Incorrect, sir. I know everyone on here loves VVME but they're not very good. For a similar price DDM offers digital HID kits with a lifetime warranty and seem to crap out less. :thumbup:
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Post by Sabersoul » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:19 pm

This is making me at least want to experiment with building some. :D Wanna test some electrical stuff out with 55W ballasts, though. Damned computer in the Caliber.

I can't wait to see the final results, man!

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:29 pm

updated pricing above to see what I've spent. Thanks guys, I'm pumped to get rolling on these.
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Post by LilSparkPlug » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:32 pm

Contrary to popular belief Digital kits die out far sooner than standard kits. I've had a VVME kit for 3+ years with not one bulb or ballast issue. I had a piss poor experience with DDM and will never go back. And I buy A LOT of HIDs.

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:44 pm

Orly? Didn't know you had ever used the DDM ones. Well, I'll go back and check out what VVME has to offer then. I just liked the reviews of the DDM more as well as the lifetime warranty but it's up in the air right now. Thanks for the advice.
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Post by heydockyle » Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:42 pm

I also have 3 VVME kits and no problems really. The high beam on the red car on the driver side doesn't want to come on unless you tap the headlight.

VVME's stuff is good, but their customer service sucks ass.


And Ryan, I just bought oem headlights for the red car cheap. You are helping me retro them after yours turn out okay. I fuck shit up in the oven. I put them in for a little bit and they crack when opening. I put them in longer and the lens gets real hot and sags and messes up.

Pisses me offf.
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Post by LowNSlow » Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:02 pm

Yea Ryan.... I need you to come over this weekend and let's do my retros! :P
-John


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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:03 pm

Kyle... your VVME reviews REALLY make me see the good in them. They're pretty good but don't work half the time, and have bad customer service lol :lol:

:rofl: both of you... well lets see how mine turn out before you ask for my help, but Kyle I'd be more than willing to help you out. You could even come hang out at Matt's and we could do some work or I could come to you, whatever.

John - trade me the SRT for it haha


I made good progress on the trunk right now. Still has some peaks and valleys that need to be worked out but it's definitely getting there... FINALLY!
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Post by heydockyle » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:03 pm

I will def come up to matts one day. How far is he from you?


And on the vvme thing. The two sets in my orange car are fine. Dads bixenon set is fine. My one hi beam in red isn't working unless you hit like a bump lol. I emailed them today about it and ill let you know how it goes.
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Post by LilSparkPlug » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:43 pm

Just so you don't think I'm biased, here's the story and a bunch of other people who were angry with them. They're very misleading:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f123/dd ... er-563779/

The majority of people in that thread were disappointed with them, but some liked them.

Kyle: You can't bake OEM lamps that's why they keep doing what they're doing.

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Post by heydockyle » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:07 pm

Haven't tried headlight yet. My experience is with taillights.

So I guess ill be cutting the oem 1gn lights I just bought open.
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05 OB SRT-4 - AGP Stg 3 Delta 44 Turbo w/ Supporting mods
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:18 pm

Matt lives about 20 minutes east of me, probably makes it closer for you. He lives in Export.

I may just go with VVME then since they have the bi-xenon harness I need anyway.

Here's some shots of the trunk lid. The green is etching primer.

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Image

Image

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Post by FAC3L3SS » Wed Jun 16, 2010 1:30 am

That trunk is SO fucking close.

Also, my oven doesn't stink :lol:
el. oh. el.

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Post by LilSparkPlug » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:01 am

Etching primer is normally used over bare metal...whyfor did you use Etching primer?

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:25 am

haha thanks for the question Crystal, because I forget to explain that and I knew someone would ask. There actually is a lot of bare metal that was exposed again after sanding it smooth so I wanted to shoot some etching primer on it. Every time I'm done working on it for the day and put it back in the garage it ends up with a little surface rust on it I have to sand off. :sad: This fixed that, and I just feel better knowing the metal is "protected". Even though I read that this is kinda an old school method and epoxy primers are used in the modern day. Whatever. Once I'm done with the body work the painter can do whatever the hell he wants to with it.

Adam - I KNOW dude. It's so close I can smell it.... No literally, there are still some paint fumes lingering :rofl: Yep, no stinky oven here either tehehe.
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Post by LilSparkPlug » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:48 am

Ahhh alright now I get it ha ha! Yeah it's old school in that you're basically spraying sheer acid and people aren't too fond of that nowadays. But I was scratching my head at first trying to figure out why you used it over filler. Shockingly enough I had hardly ANY surface rust when my roof/trunk were bare metal for that amount of time. I was surprised. Then again it wasn't all that humid that time of year.

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:05 am

http://www.020cd.com/english/product.asp
I know it may be a little late, but the above link is where I ordered my HID kits years ago when I sold them on here. I only had one ballast come back for a warranty exchange and have not heard from anyone else since.
I have since switched over to the slim kit from the above supplier and have not had an issue yet....
Now honestly if the other company in discussion is offering a lifetime warranty Vs the common 1 year warranty, I would stick with them...
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