heres the location for the clutch interlock wire......
the wires coming off the neutral safety meeting with the wires you need to splice to do 2 things, 1 (green wire, also there is a black wire, just ground it to the chassis) disable the clutch interlock to be able to start the car, and 2( purple and white) have reverse lights
heres the reverse light switch on the transmission
heres the console removed and thebolts that old the atx shifter....
and the studs for the cables
also a word to the wise taking the bolts off the heat shield againt the fire wall makes getting the cables out soooooo much easier
boogers installed at the shifter and trans woot woot
5 spd shifter in
heres my super sexy $9 hitch ball shift knob, lot of work, heated up and hammered on, it will not come off EVER lol
you can....... and i say it as only an absolute necessaty use the stock radiator, but you wanna do this right, buy a new mitsu eclipse rad ('95-99) makes running the rad hoses sooooooooo much easier, you don't want to know the nightmare it was to make shit work
custom rad brackets out of flat steel
engine in, its a redonkulusly tight fit lol
I don'tknow abot ayone else, but the plate the gas pedl bolts to is spot welded in 2 spots.....
does this mean I am an aggressie driver if i broke those spot welds ?? lolz
shittest spot to weld EVER !!!
btw incase anyone is wondering, PT ATX passenger side axle is what you seek, I will get a part number in a bit
till then 4spd atx neon on top pt atx on bottom....
I was rocking the tiny 49mm stock 420A tb then i decided to upgrade to a nice jeep 52mm 4.0L TB.......
back side
vacuum port jb welded in place
TB cable guides cut in half, since i don't need a spot for a kickdown aka modd'ed again
which i eventually took one of my many jeep 4.0L tb which starts at a 60mm opening and tapers to 52mm (8+ jeep 4.0L tb's I buy in bulk lol) and bored it to 60mm all the way through
and its got the half shaft mod and is still plenty strong, again i reused all the STOCK sensors
to make the jeep 4.0L tb work you have to slot 2 holes and use socket cap screws, plus you have to relocate the idle stop screw
and can be used with the stock eclipse intake
but stock is junk so i searched craigslist and found a 8pc 2.5in intercooler kit with 10 t-bolt clamps for $40, brand new,
so i took some hose
cut it down the middle
wrapped the hole where the stock airbox went with it so it wouldn't rub
had to mod the idle stop bracket aka cut the top off to clear the intake tube when it rotated
with 2 bends and 2 hose connectors and 3 clamps latter BAM
also tried making a oil seperator for my crank case breather i think it was a total success but doesn't work like it should, probably a vacuum leak lol
and installed
shes also cat delete like i said, just used 2 spark plug non foulers welded to the exhaust pipe, btw those were some tight ass custom bends to snake the exhaust tubing around the crossmember pics to come soon, enjoy the tips
also you MUST switch from the mitsu crank pulley to the stock SOHC, 2 reasons my god it huge and heavier, plus it uses 5 rib belts, stock neons use 4 rib
mitsu on left neon on right
stock pulley vs udp
yes the stock pulley literally fits over the UDP
well thats all for now, hope the next posts will be fabbing up a turbo log manifold lol, if theres any questions or really detailed instructions/pics of anything i have covered please feel free to ask
oh just a few things,
I am running the DOHC MTX on the stock SOHC ATX computer, plug and play on the camshaft sensors, yes i have a check engine light for a "torque converter lock up selinoid" I don't care lol it DOES NOT affect the car in any way shape form or idea, i still have a 6,800 rev limit
btw my 5spd swap was research research research !!!!!
EERYTHING NEEDED (minus pass axle, bought it new)
and the next time some one says you can't put aluminium master and cast slave cylinders on '02+ hydraulic neons tell them there wrong and tell'em to look here for a comparrision
as she sits now, still need 1" wheel spacers to get that hella flush look
!!
