chew*'s 01 Neon Mtx Project

chew* · Post by chew* » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:53 pm

Yah but that is just to get a working system, I should in theory be able to register what inputs and outputs are coming out of the 4 pin wire harness now.

If I do that I can create a way to bypass these things without a key

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:59 pm

Main thing would be what wire is sending the ok signal to the pcm to let the fuel pump, coilpack, ect to work and not shut down. Once you figure that out it might even come down to what voltage or resistance is going threw it. I know on my ford setup its not a 12 volt signal that sends the ok. Its like 4 volts.

I used to do remstarts for a living. Been a few years but I still know some of the tricks.

chew* · Post by chew* » Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:05 pm

Yah I did the car audio/visual/electronics scene for a while.

Then I hit the computer hardware scene hard working with manufacturers of motherboards so I learned alot about circuitry doing that.

I'm fairly certain they are going to be using 4-5v ref signal and would bet money it's not 12v, that would be to easy.

Being that there is a circuit board in the immobilizer they could be sending multiple signals in that short time frame also.

I'm fairly certain the immobilzer is reading a code however the 4 wires that i see are not capable of sending data, only a signal based on voltage to the pcm.

chew* · Post by chew* » Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:07 am

So I did a little investigating tonight.

4 wires.

Unplugged

Pink 12v hot KO/EO ( Key off engine off )

Purple with yellow ground to the naked eye ( it gets interesting )

Blue with white hot KO/EO so ignition power.

One more I forget the color, nothing unplugged, when plugged in it's ground.

What gets interesting is if you take that purple with yellow wire and test with a circuit tester on ground it pulses just like an alarm....just a steady blink whether car is off and all power is off plugged in or not it doesn't matter.

When running it pulses wicked fast. Curiosity I checked it for resistance and you can see it jumping back and forth.

The purple with yellow consequently is the only wire I can trace out of the ignition harness and heading straight into the engine bay area.

I will trace it further once i get the rest of engine compartment harness out of parts car.

Chances are however that I won't be able to mimick what it's doing.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:43 am

Purple w/yellow is the PCI Bus wire.

chew* · Post by chew* » Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:55 pm

LilSparkPlug wrote:Purple w/yellow is the PCI Bus wire.

Thx for info.

Think i'm gonna leave that for another time when I am absolutely bored and want to fix something that isn't broken or break something that doesn't need fixxing.

For now I have plenty to keep me busy.

Went down to junkyard, car wasn't moved to front area and set on tires like I need it to be to drain all the fluids. So I arranged for them to get that done, everything is ready to pull or as far as along as i can get it without losing fluids and car is bellied off tires so I can't pull suspension parts atm either.

I Installed a new master cylinder and swapped in the R/T steering wheel minus the cruise control.

Back to work for me, have to be in NY at 8AM.....

*Edit*
I love this steering wheel, it's the small things that matter, far more solid feeling than the sponge I was driving with prior.

Might be tackling some body work soon before my entire roof rots away,( just need some time ) I think crystal has a before shot that will make most neon owners shudder.

Still speculation but my car was either in a fire or a rollover at some point in it's life and someone dumped a can or 2 of body filler on roof to fix it

It's getting a complete roof chop from a moonroof neon as I'm not to keen on body filler.....

Anyone with info on how to do the passenger airbag delete without tripping an airbag light would greatly be appreciated.

I found a donor car for the delete.

Guessing I may need airbag computer from that car.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 9:44 am

Which junkyard is this? Do they have other Neons there?? There's some funky little stuff I'm looking for. PM me if you want.

Oh and when he says lots of body filler...he isn't kidding. Here's proof:

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:27 am

I just threw up a little...how horrible

chew* · Post by chew* » Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:25 am

LilSparkPlug wrote:Which junkyard is this? Do they have other Neons there?? There's some funky little stuff I'm looking for. PM me if you want.

Halls Garage, Johnston R.I.

Yes they have multiple neons. Best to go here with me since I get killer pricing there, I know and have been dealing with owner for years. I can preety much name a price I want ( within reason ) and the answer is yes yes yes.

Hank Zions, Lakeville MA.

Yes they have multiple neons but hands off my R/T

As far as his prices go, My entire R/T cost me $550.....thats the cheapest price I was quoted when calling around for just an R/T engine.........I'd say entire car is not bad..... even if it was smacked in front/pass side hard.

Rough count not including my R/T there is around 11 neons between the 2 and at least 1 1st gn. Hank Zions has an unlmolested mtx still.

Will shoot you a PM.

I may need your help btw spraying the lip that both windows sit on and side rails after I weld it but before glass goes back in, would hate to do all that work to have it rot out under there later down the road.

Paint isn't my specialty, I leave that to the pros.

I can do the prep work though

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:09 pm

[quote="LilSparkPlug"]Which junkyard is this? Do they have other Neons there?? There's some funky little stuff I'm looking for. PM me if you want.

Oh and when he says lots of body filler...he isn't kidding. Here's proof:

That is exactly what is happening to my roof!!!

I just don't understand what would require them to use a ton of body filler on the roof. Also mad porps chew. It's coming along nicely.

chew* · Post by chew* » Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:06 pm

@ derailed. I assure you my car did not come from factory like that.

How the roof got pushed in I don't know but I do know that someone apparently welded a screw or nail near dead center for a level point and just laid body filler on like there was no tommorow, I know the doors have it to but not as bad, I usually describe stuff like that the "pacific ocean" becasue if you take a close side look at the car or alot of cars for that matter you can see the waves/ripples from improper body work.

In this case for my doors and roof it's better to start with actual metal and do it right.

Engine trans and fatty cracks entire hydraulic assembly for mtx is laying on ground covered for the night. Picking it up with my van tommorow.

Grabbed the rearview mirror with maplights which i just tossed in but need to chase the wires in the harness from the RT to hook it and the sunroof wires up factory. Ran the harness down the A pillar,and also replaced my dash top since it had a crack near pass side airbag.

Also grabbed the OH shit handles ceiling interior from the RT.

The RT sunroof leaks so left it, my other donor for roof clip does not leak, the ceiling just isn't as "fancy".

Rear suspension was kicking my ass......everything is frozen or breaking. Took a break from it so I don't ruin the rear disc swap knuckles. Will cut all that stuff out tommorow with the torch and deal with it at home with the shop press.

There's some red springs on the struts all the way around....I noticed a part # on one, maybe you guys can help me figure out what they are.

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:36 pm

most likely eibach sport lines.

chew* · Post by chew* » Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:40 am

a23dranger wrote:most likely eibach sport lines.

Yah I thought with car jacked up eibach springs were loose. These are still compressed.

All the info I have is Front 76287, can't get a part # off others, they need some TLC paint wise.

My guess is they are the more severe drop eibach's if they are eibach. This car had a figerglass body kit and was probably dropped preety decent.

Typical fast and furious rice mobile.

All show and no go.

Engine was stock save for a CAI as far as i can tell so far.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:41 am

If my schedule allows I can help with the paint that's not an issue at all. As for the springs they sound like Eibachs to me also.

chew* · Post by chew* » Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:17 pm

Busy day.

Got almost everything off RT now and when I say everything I mean everything.........

Thats just the RT.

I stripped down block, cylinders 3/4 tossed rods through block ( I already knew that ) Pulled it all apart and came to conclusion that they must have hydralocked it......there were no signs of anything bad happening with main bearings ( save for fact they ran it after chunks of metal were floating around ) wrist pins and connecting rod bearings were fine so either the 2 conecting rods spontaneously exploded ( unlikely ) or something stopped the pistons dead in there tracks and rods snapped.....since there are no scores on pistons and head is fine I'd say water then they ran it after draining it.

If you see something you want except for rear disc setup, or magnumhead, VC, intake, header, engine harness for magnum.......just ask.

I literally stripped the car to the bone save the body panels.....

Oh the rear sway is already spoken for also.

Seriously if you need something ask....I probably have spares.

Yes thats 32k original with an srt-4 trans bolted up to it.

This whole rack is full of parts to and that cardboard box has about 1000 spare neon bolts nuts and bracketry.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 6:33 pm

chew* wrote:[
Anyone with info on how to do the passenger airbag delete without tripping an airbag light would greatly be appreciated.

Blivitt02 wrote:You need a 2 Ohm resistor from radio shack (or similar) and make sure you unhook your battery for at least 10 minutes before you mess with anything air bag related

chew* · Post by chew* » Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:50 pm

occasional demons wrote:
chew* wrote:[
Anyone with info on how to do the passenger airbag delete without tripping an airbag light would greatly be appreciated.

Blivitt02 wrote:You need a 2 Ohm resistor from radio shack (or similar) and make sure you unhook your battery for at least 10 minutes before you mess with anything air bag related

Thx, I assume the 2 ohm resistor jumps the wires that goes to airbag.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:38 pm

From the wiring diagram, it looks like there are just two wires: DG/YL and BK/YL, so yeah it would go across the connector (Squib), or if you want cut the connector off, and solder it to the wires. Might be more secure that way. Then you could leave the squib with the air bag. you can always solder the sqib back on if you have a need to return it to stock. I would use a crimp connector soldered in place for that tho. Just use shrink tubing to cover it.

chew* · Post by chew* » Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:49 pm

Not much progress.

Been cleaning stuff up and oiling down all the rear suspension bolts for the past couple days. I'm not looking forward to screwing with trailing arms.....

Seperating parts that I need/don't need.

I wanted to give the springs a nice paint job but I think time vs money it would just be cheaper to get the majority of rust/flaking paint off and just undercoat them......the amount of time needed to get them prepped and all painted up original red I could buy a new set.....

Started cleaning up intake and header as well. Header will go out for ceramic coating, intake no clue, have not even settled on a color scheme yet......

Head is going out for cleaning and magnaflux locally. After that I will take some measurement so I can port a normal head to magnum specs, meanwhile the magnum head will go out for a valve job, port, polish and flow matching along with intake. I'd do it myself but....i don't have equipment to measure and match flow.

Anyone know how powder coating holds up to brake cleaner? Thinking of sending the rear disc brake shield out for paint.

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:03 am

Are you absolutely certain you don't want to sell me your R/t intake manni? lol but, seriously coming together bro, keep it up!

chew* · Post by chew* » Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:40 am

D-Railed_Neon wrote:Are you absolutely certain you don't want to sell me your R/t intake manni? lol but, seriously coming together bro, keep it up!

Honestly the intake is an extremely important ingredient if my plans go the way I want. More important than the headwork.

Forced air induction needs to be able to have space/volume to force air into, if not your going to have some rather severe intake temps, hot intake temps are counter productive when trying to run a denser charge.

The indy intake would also be a candidate I guess but I like the ability to tune the secondary runners to my specific needs.

The only other dillema I need to work out is the intake opening....I still don't get the entire idea of a bigger TB if the intake opening itself is smaller......

You can only get so much flow/volume through your narrowest opening.........I could run 3" CAI tubing and TB, but if the intake is only 2" I'm only going to get the volume that 2" allows....

Same for an exhaust......if the entire exhaust is 3" except for one area that downsizes to 2.5" then your only flowing the max a 2.5" opening allows....same goes for duals......if it's not dual from manifolds and chambered together......then duals are a waste of time money and metal......I guess they look cool though....

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:57 am

lol well, you just did a 10 for 10 sum up of why I want your manifold. So, I guess I can assume that is a no....

chew* · Post by chew* » Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:15 pm

No major progress persay or work over past couple weeks.....Busy at work.

Got around to getting to JY today, grabbed 1 rear sway bar bracket that I managed to lose......it's for crystal, I already have a swaybar.

Grabbed the battery hold down and bolt I have been searching for that isn't rotted to hell and a new shifter boot since a little tear in mine was annoying me to look at.

Took some inventory while there for other little interior mods I want to do, located a clean K frame and put a deposit down on that and a fairly clean 05 SXT nose with fogs.

One last thing to note trans is about to come out again, no issues since rebuild just done logging all data with the 3.55......it survived over 30 launches from 3500 rpms this time after i rebuilt it, be interesting to see how the internals held up and what is wearing under drag type conditions. Clutch is coming out to, it's fine for DD but not for drag race conditions, I have 3 clutches sitting here waiting to be used so might as well use them.

Oh I added some diff 6x9's today. Swapped in some blaupunkts , my JL's need to go back to sound fx for repair, my buddy owns the place so he can get them repaired cheap for me. I had them in one of my competition car audio cars and well they are worse for wear.....ask mike

I also cleaned the rear deck and side panels, I swear this car was rolled over into a deep puddle or something.....I wasted 3 rags cleaning it and they are dark brown now.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:31 pm

Ewwww that poor neon. The 05 front clip will look much better than the clip you have on there now, and sweet deal on finding a good k-frame around these parts. The battery trays new from the dealer, if you ever needed one, are like $18. I was shocked they were so cheap when i was looking at them.

Funny...my SXT's boot had a tear in it when I bought it also. Drove me nuts so I replaced it. Oh and thanks, you didn't have to do that!

chew* · Post by chew* » Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:55 pm

LilSparkPlug wrote:Ewwww that poor neon. The 05 front clip will look much better than the clip you have on there now, and sweet deal on finding a good k-frame around these parts. The battery trays new from the dealer, if you ever needed one, are like $18. I was shocked they were so cheap when i was looking at them.

Funny...my SXT's boot had a tear in it when I bought it also. Drove me nuts so I replaced it. Oh and thanks, you didn't have to do that!

Feel like spraying the bumper at least primer wise?

It's electric blue.....it's either you or can primer for now

but i guess it better than electric blue on blackcherry.

I also decided on a external color scheme, I think silver highlights will go good with black cherry if kept to a minimum.

So my ricer lights which I can't stand the chrome in would get dismantled and the chrome will get media blasted and sprayed silver as well as the chrome front trim on the SXT nose.

I pondered black but dark color cars need light highlights and vice versa for light colored cars.

Maybe a few more subtle hints, if I did a lip kit all around it would look nice silver to but i live in new england and a "ground effects" kit as I call them = a rotted rocker panel in short time not to mention it would look a tad sportier than I want it to be, I'm going more for a newer model stock/sleeper look.

chew* · Post by chew* » Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:50 am

I didn't upload this but someone did.

Excuse my wheelhop and rather late shifting, you really have to tach out the 3.55 to be usefull.

More details, launch 3500 for actual 3250 at dump, power shift second at 6250 for actual shift into 2nd @ 6500, triple clutching ( necessary for 3.55 with my config ) into third which is that weird noise you hear in flyby

.

27 psi in front uniroyal tiger paws, 40 psi in rear kumho's with multiple spring keepers installed to prevent rear end dip and gain traction at launch.

Best time so far 15.7 stock with custom CAI rear trunk lining and rear seats removed to offset the weight of bondo on roof

.

This was a 15.9 run according to my data with R/T pcm.

The above times are crudementary so don't take them to serious just a guideline. They were referenced via stopwatch and in car cam to be preety spot on though.
http://youtu.be/WlkSAAOcC1I

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:16 pm

I have pictures of a black cherry SRT with graphite and it looked really really nice once put together. I can post them up for you if you want. Things will be hectic for me at least until after the holidays, you have all the equipment for it?

chew* · Post by chew* » Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:01 pm

LilSparkPlug wrote:I have pictures of a black cherry SRT with graphite and it looked really really nice once put together. I can post them up for you if you want. Things will be hectic for me at least until after the holidays, you have all the equipment for it?

Yah would love to see them, I really suck at color coordination.

I would probably have to drop bumper off, mechanic garages with oil in the air and body shop type work don't mix. Fisheye is inevitable.

I'm in no hurry after holidays is fine.

chew* · Post by chew* » Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:26 pm

Got a quote from JETHOT who i've dealt with a few times.

$140 plus $30 shipping for polished inner and outer coating, not bad not great but there are worse things I could spend money....like on a pace setter ceramic coated with a tiny ass collector.

Probably send it out after holidays, looking at 1 1/2 week turn around time.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:11 pm

I currently have no means to paint though that's the only thing. Fisheye is inevitable in that environment, you're correct.

Here's some pictures, these cars aren't the same paint code as yours but they are all a black cherry-esque color: