Casper

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:57 am

With the price of copper being what it is, is this still a cost effective alternative to the OE piece? I assume it is, but since I went the all rubber route I'm not sure what the OE price was/is.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:55 am

Well OE for the 1gn DOHC is unavailable. The coil (10 feet) cost $20, so it wasn't horribly expensive. Most of the ones listed on the other .org have been sold, and they averaged $45. New 2.0 SOHC last I checked were priced prohibitively high. Not that they would have fit anyways. I thought of going completely rubber, but then where they thread through, I was worried about keeping them from chaffing. Prolly more of an anal thing...

The EGR also poses a problem on the DOHC as they route the OE hard lines over the shift levers to clear the EGR tubing. I am just going to block off the EGR ports, and work out a solution for the CEL.

So my shift levers shall be obstruction free.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:15 pm

A good deal all around then

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:36 am

Pure Frankensex.

Now that that little detail is out of the way, I can move on to other needs.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:39 am

That is just too cool

Now, what is that side port at the firewall end for?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:57 am

Option for temperature gauge.

After the headache I had with the daughters 1gn, finding an aftermarket sender that actually worked for the cluster and the fans, I thought adding a convenient way to get an actual reading would be a good idea.

Casper will likely get a Mopar sender after that ordeal.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:09 am

I had a feeling it was something like that. Good idea.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:27 pm

Well the other day, when attempting to clean some of the oil saturation from my wiring, I noticed an unusually excessive amount of electrical tape around the crank sensor connector.

This is what I found: I'm not really sure how it ran, other than being a ghost of course.

Only two of three wires were actually still connected.

So after a trip to AZ...

Then I had to listen to a dim-wit at Home Depot tell me that the black cloth electrical tape isn't what they use in car harnesses, and they don't carry it anyways.

They do, but I went to Lowe's and got two rolls of a better quality for less. Hmm, black, sticky, makes a mess of everything it touches, yep, me thinks it's the same stuff.

So I re wrapped all the wiring behind the engine, but need to get some heat protection for it.

A couple of pics of the 136 amp alternator mounted. This was before I re did the harness.

I poured some fuel into the TB, and cranked it over. It runs! At least I got the CkPS wiring right, and the cam timing.

My helper for the day... Old and grumpy.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:17 pm

A little brake plumbing, need to get more brake line to finish the right rear. The left rear consumed the better part of a 25' roll.

Seems copper tubing is beginning to be a fetish...

But after what I have seen with the aftermarket steel tubing after just a year, I wasn't about to waste all this effort to have to re do it, or crash from a rusted out line. So 90/10 Cu Ni it is.

For those that are concerned about "copper" tubing for brake lines, this stuff is far more burst resistant than steel.

viewtopic.php?p=955790#955790

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 2:28 pm

Got the brake lines completed, and began the alternator to battery wire the other day...

A little heat shielding for the PS reservoir.

Caution: Honda parts!

Sorry Gramps!

This thing beats the oem unit to hell for accessing the alternator adjustment screw. After struggling with the daughter's 1gn to adjust the belt, I knew changes were in order.

Edit: And yes, there is another 1gn with the exact overflow/mounting bracket a bit North of me. Got to test this stuff out ya know. If there are issues with something, a woman will tell you about it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:04 pm

Classic Briggs & Stratton Damper: Stamped steel pulleys FTW.

It weighs about half of what my 2gn damper does.

OBX PT Cruiser downpipe - 1gn converted...

It isn't pretty, but like an ugly horny GF, it does what needs to be done.

Mike, hope you didn't ever want this back!

ejclide · Post by **ejclide** » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:23 pm

wait, so it made you a sandwich?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:03 am

Ed Zachary!

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:29 am

occasional demons wrote:
Caution: Honda parts!

This thing beats the oem unit to hell for accessing the alternator adjustment screw. After struggling with the daughter's 1gn to adjust the belt, I knew changes were in order.

Edit: And yes, there is another 1gn with the exact overflow/mounting bracket a bit North of me.

Now that is SLICK !!
Even if they are Honduh parts.

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:43 am

Well, just the bottle is, the bracket was made in the USA, very local.

Although, the metal is probably Chinese, as it is from a computer case...

ejclide · Post by **ejclide** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:27 pm

where do you get the 90/10 tubing?

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:27 pm

occasional demons wrote: It isn't pretty, but like an ugly horny GF, it does what needs to be done.

^ made me

but seriously nice freaking work!!!

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:57 am

ejclide wrote:where do you get the 90/10 tubing?

AutoZone, or Advance. Both are the same price. Expensive.

Well not in the long run... ~$49.95/25 feet

Thanks, Daryl!

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:03 pm

Picked this up from ebay for $30 shipped

The 136 amp SRT/GT alternator will stall a 2.0 when hooked to a discharged battery. And this is even with the larger pulley (not the crank pulley) to under drive the alternator.

At first I thought I connected the battery to the cables backwards. Because it killed it with no effort needed. Connect jumpers, engine comes to a violent sudden stop.

I had to keep the throttle open just to keep it running, until the battery got a little charge to it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 8:21 pm

Finished wiring the power cable from the alternator to the battery and PDC. I Installed a 100 amp breaker. Hopefully I never need the rated capacity of the alternator. I don't see a big audio system anytime soon, so chances are slim.

The connections at the battery are only temporary until I figure out exactly what I'm doing there. It works for now, so i can work the rest of the bugs out.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:20 pm

Dear William:

Thank you for contacting the Dodge Customer Assistance Center in regards
to your 1999 Dodge Neon.

We are pleased to provide vehicle build information per your request.

According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:

Sales Code Description
*L7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
-AZ Agate
AJK Convenience Group
AJPP Power Convenience Group
ALF Sun and Wheel Value Group
APAS Monotone Paint
BA7S 250 Amp Alternator < Really?
BCUS 450 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
BTAP All Vehicles w/o ABS Brakes
CGDS Front Height Adjust Shoulder Belts
CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags**
CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area
CKPS Trunk Dress-Up
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSRP Passenger Assist Handles
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DBBC All Manual Transmissions
DD4 5-Speed Perf. Manual Transmission
DLTP 2.8 Overall Top Gear Ratio
EAAC All Engines
ECC 2.0L I4 DOHC 16V SMPI Engine
GACS Tinted Glass Windows
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors < Sucks the driver's has a shattered mirror
GRKP Left Power Mirror
GSKP Right Power Mirror
GTKP Power Mirrors
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GWAP Power Sunroof
HAAP Air Conditioning
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAAS Instrument Panel
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JFHP Tachometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JJFS Single Low Note Horn
JKES Remote Trunklid Release
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
KSAS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3WS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LDCS Trunk Lamp
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJP Fog Lamps
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MGBP Hood Power Bulge
MUDS Dodge I.D. Badge
MVJP Sport Badge
MVPS Dodge Badge
MV3S Dodge Dart Badging <WTF?
MXDP Trunklid Spoiler
NAE California Emissions <LoL!
NBKS EVAP Control System
NFMS 12.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMP Speed Control
PW7 Bright White Clear Coat
QW7S Bright White Clear Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBSP AM/FM Cass Radio w/Changer Control
RCGP 6 Speakers
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCAS Steering Wheel
SDCS Touring Suspension
SHAP Front Stabilizer Bar
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TAAC All Tires
TBCS Compact Spare Tire
TJYS P185/65R14 BSW AS Touring Tires
WBBS 14X5.5 Black Wheels
W4WP 14" White Wheel Covers
XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Thanks again for your email.

Sincerely,

Jennifer

Customer Service Representative
Dodge Customer Assistance Center

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:44 pm

Nice. Love the coolant overflow. I hate the factory ones, cannot see the level very well. Looks like steady progress.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 10:23 am

Thank You Sir!

ianguilly · Post by **ianguilly** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 10:44 am

occasional demons wrote:
KSAS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3WS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR

I couldn't get those ugly stripe off quick enough.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:15 pm

So after waiting 4 + months, Casper finally gets a bath. Power washed all the mud from his under side, and scrubbed the paint to get the years? of accumulation off. Put the crappy fenders, etc back on, so my "purchase price" seems more believable, tho I will probably will take a date of delivery pic along, when I go to get the title transferred, just in case.

Still need to finish the interior assy, and other little odds and ends...

Edit:
What he looked like before I bought him:

Pictures don't show nearly how sad the car really was.

Pulled from the FS post on the big org...

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:25 pm

So after trying to figure out some of the engine noise, I dicovered half of the cam tower bolts are stripped in the head, and one was half mangled, and screwed in anyways.

So on to the fix for that issue:

A few parts from Mc Master Carr:

12mm Helicoil

Comparison to the 7mm ones that are all I could find local.

Hmmm, what's that next to the stock bolts?

Ghetto Cam Tower stud kit maybe?

Grade 8.8 studs/JIS hex nuts/extra thick washers. Maybe not ARP stuff, but the same grade as the stock bolts, and will likely fail after the aluminum in the head anyways.

I got half done... Torquing them to spec (105 in/lbs) felt 100% more solid than the ones that did hold.

Edit for PN#s pricing:

98867A265 Metric Black Class 8.8 Steel Spacing Stud, M6 Size, 47.5MM Overall Length, 1MM Pitch $0.71 Each /$12.78 18 pcs

91028A417 Metric JIS Hex Nut, Zinc-Plated Steel, M6 Screw Size, 1MM Pitch, Packs of 50 $10.70 Per Pack

98035A104 Metric Extra-Thickness Black-Oxide Steel Flat Washer, M6 Screw Size, 13MM OD, 2MM-2.9MM Thick, Packs of 10 $4.86 Per Pack 2 Packs $9.72

91732A782 18-8 Stainless Steel Standard Helical Insert, M6-1 Internal Thread, 12MM Length, Packs of 10 $5.67 Per Pack 2 Packs $11.34

Merchandise $44.54

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:26 am

Wow. The more you dig into this car, the more scary it becomes

I love the ghetto tower studs though

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:55 am

The fun of used/abused vehicles. At least when I had the interior stripped out, I didn't find a weld that went all the way around.

For $53 shipped for 20 heli coils,18 studs, 50 nuts, and 20 washers, it beats $200 to $300 for the ARP's; depending on the source.
Granted the 8mm bolts aren't included in that price, but those are fine.

For a DD, I can't justify that kind of money for something that gives no gain.

For a full out race car, that actually would make some use of the ARP kit, yeah you could justify it. Stock lift/stock springs, eh... no.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 11:25 pm

Well, I'm almost certain the noise is narrowed down to a #4 wrist pin knock. It is very erratic, and is a bit quieter when pulling the injector wire.

Being as erratic as it is, I wanted to be sure it wasn't a lash adjuster/rocker issue.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Hence another reason why I didn't want to spend too much fixing the cam cap issue. Sure it is going to help in the long run, but not getting this beast healthy enough to take over DD duties for a while.

So yeah, I am glad I saved a chunk, by not just bleeding cash for ARP's.

Now the question is, do I 2.4 swap this, and rebuild the engine for the '01, or swap the '01?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:55 am

Which car do/will you enjoy driving more? The first impulse is to say "Swap the lighter car!", but if you find that you love being in and driving the heavier but more solid 01 more, swap that instead.

There is nothing worse than your faster car being something that would be a second choice for driving IMHO. Leave that car as what it is...back-up.