Adding AFR to cluster

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mrsixstrings12
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Post by mrsixstrings12 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 11:45 am

Caraudioholic24 wrote:Yea.. that's basically how I did it... By carefully removing the digital display you can solder on your own cables and mount it wherever.. if you really want to get crafty mount each individual led on the bottom of the cluster in a row lol
stop giving me awesome ideas to try out :banghead:
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 11:51 am

Why isn't this finished?


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Post by occasional demons » Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:58 pm

:rofl:



Caraudioholic24 wrote:if you really want to get crafty mount each individual led on the bottom of the cluster in a row lol
:shock:

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Post by blueneo03 » Mon Nov 26, 2012 4:30 pm

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Post by srtjesse » Thu Jan 03, 2013 2:38 pm

so what happened with this were you able to finish this project???
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:12 pm

BUMP! :lol:

I'm thinking about getting back to this project. After being halted by that odd problem in Post #25, I got lazy and just put the gauge back in its pod. I'm still thinking of ways to get the data to transfer correctly, and I can only come up with a couple ideas:

1) It was just a shitty $5 chinese ribbon cable, and another one might work.
2) Make my own harness and just use independent wires.
3) Remove, solder to wires, and extend the digital number blocks away from the board.

The only problem with #3 is that the LEDs around the digits (the ones that go around the perimeter of the gauge) are directly tied into the digits via the board. So if a certain part of a digit gets power, the associated LED also gets power, and vis versa. I'm thinking if I extend the digits away from the board, it might fuck up the way the digits get energized. But maybe someone like Jenni would have more input.

#1 is kinda iffy, since I already tried it once, and #2 is essentially the same thing. However, maybe the ribbon was causing interference across ports and wiring each port individually would net better results?

It's all up for debate. I'm probably gonna remove the gauge this week and play around with it. Any help from wiring gurus would be greatly appreciated! :lol:
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:19 pm

Wish you were closer... We could have that figured out in a weekend..
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Post by JeffM » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:24 pm

:rofl: I bet we would have. Hopefully It won't take me much longer to figure it out.
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Tue Jul 02, 2013 4:44 pm

Alrighty so I took the gauge back out of the car. This is the problem I have with the ribbon cable:

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All of the lights you see lit up in the photo flash on and off and do nothing else. I've tried flipping the plugs, twisting them, even off-centering them, but it either spits out random lights, or nothing at all. Is this a problem with the cable itself, or just that the boards don't like distance?
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:18 pm

Something is missing. .. either a ground or a signal source. .. id have to see everything before I can diagnose
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:21 pm

Well fuck. I think I just figured out why that ribbon cable doesn't work. :lol: The cable doesn't mirror the pattern - it flips it. So if you had a blue wire in the bottom-right corner, it ends up in the top-right corner. God damnit.
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:22 pm

Ah there you go that will do it lol
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:27 pm

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!

I tore the ribbon apart and rewired it from scratch. Keep in mind this was mostly just a test, so my wiring is a complete mess, but it fucking works. The gauge does a full sweep test and goes to idle, just like it should.

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Lol wires.
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:34 pm

That's what I initially thought would be the easiest way. Now only issue I see is getting the leds to fit, I know for sure the numeric pad will fit in that square opening on the bezel. . If only you get get the leds in a straight line like the old Chrysler digital gauge cluster
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:40 pm

I was thinking about that, but I'm just gonna cover the LEDs and just use the digits. The soldering required, for me at least, to get them all in a line would be too difficult and I'd most likely burn the board. :lol:

Plus, the LEDs technically serve no purpose once the gauge face is missing, since they're just a reference point on the gauge.

EDIT: I could always buy one of those cheap narrowband LED line boards and wire that in there if I wanted later. It'd probably fit right in there.
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:45 pm

That is true... if you really wanted to make it easy. De solder just the numeric pad. . Stick that in that square and individually solder it back to the board. Would make it easier to Mount
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:49 pm

I'm not that confident in my soldering abilities, though. :lol:

I'm guessing these boards are completely assembled by machines, because the solder points are tiny as hell. My soldering iron doesn't even have a point that small.
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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:08 pm

Well...that sucks.

Word to the wise: don't attempt this. I now understand why no one has done this before. The gauge doesn't fit without extensive work to the cluster and, even then, it won't fit at any good viewing angle. In the process, I cracked the tach overlay and shorted the wideband. Guess I'm in the market for a new overlay and air/fuel gauge...

Mods, burn this fucking thread to the ground.




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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:19 pm

I knew the gauge wouldn't fit...I am confident that the numeric pad would. .. Johnny mopar has one that is just numeric forgot what kind it was. . But his may be a bit large how badly is the gauge broken. . If you have s spare bezel I'll be glad to check it out for you after Carlisle
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:26 am

I have a spare cluster chimney board I can bring to Carlisle for ya Jeff.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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JeffM
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Post by JeffM » Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:35 pm

Caraudioholic24 wrote:I knew the gauge wouldn't fit...I am confident that the numeric pad would. .. Johnny mopar has one that is just numeric forgot what kind it was. . But his may be a bit large how badly is the gauge broken. . If you have s spare bezel I'll be glad to check it out for you after Carlisle
The digits would easily fit, but as I said, the solder is friggen tiny on the board and my soldering iron doesn't have a temperature adjustment to safely remove them.
Danteneon wrote:I have a spare cluster chimney board I can bring to Carlisle for ya Jeff.
I appreciate it, John, but I won't be at Carlisle this year. :( Clusters are like $60-$100 on ebay, so I might just bite my lip, buy one and swap my main board over.

I already bought another wideband and put it back in its pod, where it'll stay forever and ever. Only good thing to come out of this is the newer gauge can read below 11.0 A/F and it doesn't have that horrible crimped on bezel. :lol:
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:03 pm

I have an srt cluster with 77xxx on it if interested let Me know if I can help bud
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