stop giving me awesome ideas to try outCaraudioholic24 wrote:Yea.. that's basically how I did it... By carefully removing the digital display you can solder on your own cables and mount it wherever.. if you really want to get crafty mount each individual led on the bottom of the cluster in a row lol
Adding AFR to cluster
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Caraudioholic24 wrote:if you really want to get crafty mount each individual led on the bottom of the cluster in a row lol
100 years later....
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
BUMP!
I'm thinking about getting back to this project. After being halted by that odd problem in Post #25, I got lazy and just put the gauge back in its pod. I'm still thinking of ways to get the data to transfer correctly, and I can only come up with a couple ideas:
1) It was just a shitty $5 chinese ribbon cable, and another one might work.
2) Make my own harness and just use independent wires.
3) Remove, solder to wires, and extend the digital number blocks away from the board.
The only problem with #3 is that the LEDs around the digits (the ones that go around the perimeter of the gauge) are directly tied into the digits via the board. So if a certain part of a digit gets power, the associated LED also gets power, and vis versa. I'm thinking if I extend the digits away from the board, it might fuck up the way the digits get energized. But maybe someone like Jenni would have more input.
#1 is kinda iffy, since I already tried it once, and #2 is essentially the same thing. However, maybe the ribbon was causing interference across ports and wiring each port individually would net better results?
It's all up for debate. I'm probably gonna remove the gauge this week and play around with it. Any help from wiring gurus would be greatly appreciated!
I'm thinking about getting back to this project. After being halted by that odd problem in Post #25, I got lazy and just put the gauge back in its pod. I'm still thinking of ways to get the data to transfer correctly, and I can only come up with a couple ideas:
1) It was just a shitty $5 chinese ribbon cable, and another one might work.
2) Make my own harness and just use independent wires.
3) Remove, solder to wires, and extend the digital number blocks away from the board.
The only problem with #3 is that the LEDs around the digits (the ones that go around the perimeter of the gauge) are directly tied into the digits via the board. So if a certain part of a digit gets power, the associated LED also gets power, and vis versa. I'm thinking if I extend the digits away from the board, it might fuck up the way the digits get energized. But maybe someone like Jenni would have more input.
#1 is kinda iffy, since I already tried it once, and #2 is essentially the same thing. However, maybe the ribbon was causing interference across ports and wiring each port individually would net better results?
It's all up for debate. I'm probably gonna remove the gauge this week and play around with it. Any help from wiring gurus would be greatly appreciated!
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Alrighty so I took the gauge back out of the car. This is the problem I have with the ribbon cable:
All of the lights you see lit up in the photo flash on and off and do nothing else. I've tried flipping the plugs, twisting them, even off-centering them, but it either spits out random lights, or nothing at all. Is this a problem with the cable itself, or just that the boards don't like distance?
All of the lights you see lit up in the photo flash on and off and do nothing else. I've tried flipping the plugs, twisting them, even off-centering them, but it either spits out random lights, or nothing at all. Is this a problem with the cable itself, or just that the boards don't like distance?
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I was thinking about that, but I'm just gonna cover the LEDs and just use the digits. The soldering required, for me at least, to get them all in a line would be too difficult and I'd most likely burn the board.
Plus, the LEDs technically serve no purpose once the gauge face is missing, since they're just a reference point on the gauge.
EDIT: I could always buy one of those cheap narrowband LED line boards and wire that in there if I wanted later. It'd probably fit right in there.
Plus, the LEDs technically serve no purpose once the gauge face is missing, since they're just a reference point on the gauge.
EDIT: I could always buy one of those cheap narrowband LED line boards and wire that in there if I wanted later. It'd probably fit right in there.
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Well...that sucks.
Word to the wise: don't attempt this. I now understand why no one has done this before. The gauge doesn't fit without extensive work to the cluster and, even then, it won't fit at any good viewing angle. In the process, I cracked the tach overlay and shorted the wideband. Guess I'm in the market for a new overlay and air/fuel gauge...
Mods, burn this fucking thread to the ground.
FUCK
Word to the wise: don't attempt this. I now understand why no one has done this before. The gauge doesn't fit without extensive work to the cluster and, even then, it won't fit at any good viewing angle. In the process, I cracked the tach overlay and shorted the wideband. Guess I'm in the market for a new overlay and air/fuel gauge...
Mods, burn this fucking thread to the ground.
FUCK
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The digits would easily fit, but as I said, the solder is friggen tiny on the board and my soldering iron doesn't have a temperature adjustment to safely remove them.Caraudioholic24 wrote:I knew the gauge wouldn't fit...I am confident that the numeric pad would. .. Johnny mopar has one that is just numeric forgot what kind it was. . But his may be a bit large how badly is the gauge broken. . If you have s spare bezel I'll be glad to check it out for you after Carlisle
I appreciate it, John, but I won't be at Carlisle this year. Clusters are like $60-$100 on ebay, so I might just bite my lip, buy one and swap my main board over.Danteneon wrote:I have a spare cluster chimney board I can bring to Carlisle for ya Jeff.
I already bought another wideband and put it back in its pod, where it'll stay forever and ever. Only good thing to come out of this is the newer gauge can read below 11.0 A/F and it doesn't have that horrible crimped on bezel.
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