fastest dd 2.0?

Have a question about how to make horsepower going the all motor route, here's where to ask it.
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Post by JeffB#2 » Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:41 pm

Hudson_Neon wrote:guy, Ted, on MNneons..
No. Guys went mid 13s years ago with an N/A 2.0. I went 13.35 with an N/A 2.0 and it wasn't really that impressive. Mine was daily driven 5-6 days a week at that time too.
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Post by NyNeon0813 » Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:08 pm

Whats the average cost to get a head milled?
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Post by JeffB#2 » Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:14 pm

Depends. Around $35 here. Some people claim it's $80 where they live.
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Post by Hudson_Neon » Sat Jul 28, 2012 2:12 am

Yeah... I'm about $50 here

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Post by NyNeon0813 » Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:59 am

What exactly does it consist of?
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:29 am

Milling a head? In a nutshell:

Setting it up in a Milling machine, making sure the surface is 100% level, clamping it down, and machining off the specified amount of material from the gasket surface.
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Post by Jerome Adams » Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:42 am

occasional demons wrote:Well, "cheaply" would be milling the head, but then you need to get an inexpensive adjustable cam gear(s) to bring the cam timing back in line. Or some decent used pistons, but then there are the related costs of doing that properly.


Really no cheap method, unless you take your chances with backyard rebuilds.

Or you could just super glue a bunch of pennies to each piston. :P
How many pennies do you recommend? Is it better to use a grid or a swirl pattern?
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Post by esteinmaier » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:13 pm

Milling is cheap, but you have to make sure it's cleaned afterward too. Chips go everywhere, so it's worth having it tanked as well.
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Post by NyNeon0813 » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:48 pm

So if I had my mag head milled .40 what would that bring the compression to? This is on a non mag bottom too
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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:26 am

Around 10.5:1 compression, but the thing is, if you ever have anything go bad and you warp the head, you wont get that milling back.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:32 am

Well if the head is warped, it would need de warped before milling anyways. so that may be all it needs.

If you mill a warped OHC head before getting it straight, the cam(s) may no longer turn in the bores after it is torqued down.
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Post by NyNeon0813 » Sun Jul 29, 2012 1:41 pm

I love learning more and more stuff about my car on a daily basis on this forum. Don't kno what I would do without my 2gn family! Lol

I def want to get my head milled.. that added with a comp 400 should give a nice power boost over the 01 mag cam I have now
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Post by Rootna318 » Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:24 pm

ok, i have an 03 SOHC and i baught a spare head. im in a high performance school and can have the deck dropped for free along with a good port to match and polish. how far should i or could i deck it down with a crane 10 cam before i have to worry about resesd pistons? im trying to do a n/a build. but dont want to deal with resessing the pistons.

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Post by INVUJerry » Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:27 pm

A crane 10 is so small I wouldn't buy one and I'd sell it if it was given to me, not even worth installing.

You can go .50 with a cam as big as a crane 14. But the combustion chamber is very small at that point.
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Post by Rootna318 » Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:56 pm

ok, i can go to the .050 down and still have a crane 14 on pump gas. that would be a hefty lope wouldn't it? also this is an automatic car, not going to change that until the trans gives out do to being over powered. just rebuilt it. would i be better with a #12? or just go to the #14?

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Post by NyNeon0813 » Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:15 pm

12 is about the same as a magnum cam. And if u go with the 14 u need safc or something to pull fuel at idle
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Post by Rootna318 » Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:25 am

ok, i know the only dumb question is the one that goes unasked so... if i had a set of larger injector laying around that i know have a higher flow rate than the stock ones. would that take care of my fuel issue or would the computer still not be very happy about it? and if i did try the 14 would it not let the car run or just cut so much fuel at idle it would barely run?
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Post by mopar2 » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:33 pm

It's the problem off the cam having a lot of lift and duration causes rich at idle and the computer would go nuts trying to compensate for that.
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Post by INVUJerry » Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:53 pm

You don't need larger injectors until you're making 180+
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:53 pm

A Crane 14 with an ATX would be overall pretty crappy. The torque converter will fail at the RPM the 14 makes the better part of it's power.

ATX PCM's are rev limited to 6000 RPM for a reason... which brings up another issue: The ATX PCM won't let you come close to the 14's potential.

Unless you are swapping transaxles, and running a piggy back to control fuel, or MS to achieve the RPM potential, a Comp 400 is probably the better choice. A Comp 200 only has about a 200 RPM lower power band, so it isn't really a factor with the ATX. May as well go with the 400. It will work with the parameters of the stock PCM.

Upgrading to Magnum springs would be a little better than the standard ones with the 400.
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Post by INVUJerry » Sat Dec 08, 2012 10:09 pm

Although its not always necessary, I'd recommend doing valve springs with a 400, Hagan broke some in his old car with a 400 and stock valve springs. A crane 12 won't need the springs.
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Post by ZeroChad » Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:35 pm

I broke an intake valve at the groove with the 400 too. I found a few other people on the other.org that did it with the 400 as well.
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Post by Rootna318 » Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:35 pm

ok, the mag springs are brand new so i know its better than just trying to keep the stock ones. and i keep looking at MS but not to that point cost wise yet. still in college. Also with the head being decked .050 and the crane 12 i shouldnt have to worry about trimming the valve stems? also valve to piston clearance will that be an issue?
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