xxwhiteneonxx's project log! because racecar!

Do you have a project going or will you be starting a project here very soon and just want to keep a log of everything you and when? Share with everyone every step of the way what sort of progress you are making on your project.

Leave bumper stock, or cut it out like the picture on the last page?

Poll ended at Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:37 pm

leave stock ?
9
69%
cutout like in picture on last page?
4
31%
 
Total votes: 13

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:53 am

Too much cut out. You could either leVe the bumper stock and leave the mesh out like OB did or cut the bars out of the center section in front of the IC but i think that big of an open area looks really weird.
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BlackRT?
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Post by BlackRT? » Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:18 pm

look at gunmetalsxt his cut bumper looks the best.. just the lower middle grill stuff cut out... that looks haggard cut like that it will take away from how clean your car is
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Post by Hudson_Neon » Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:40 pm

way too much cut out. your car isn't near like ericks and can't really benefit that much from it

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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:02 am

Will ruin the look of your car. I agree... only do it if its an all out drag car.

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:27 am

Get a second bumper and swap between the two when you go to the track.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

Image

r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Thu Dec 06, 2012 4:16 pm

Danteneon wrote:Get a second bumper and swap between the two when you go to the track.
he does have two...
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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chew*
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Post by chew* » Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:49 pm

If you have 2 and you go to shows and race, well you have 1 for each occasion.

Not like swapping bumpers takes more than 20 mins.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:28 pm

sneak peak at the piping ....
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chew*
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Post by chew* » Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:36 pm

Stainless band clamps temporary or is that a slip fit pipe aka 1 slides in?

Even so might want to weld that, if planning to weld it and it's temporary well dismiss this entire post
Last edited by chew* on Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

Hudson_Neon
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Post by Hudson_Neon » Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:36 pm

that's a shit ton of piping

BlackRT?
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Post by BlackRT? » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:01 am

under the trans... do it
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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:21 am

hes already having it welded up as we speak, should look really nice once its finished. i'm sure he'll post pics come fri or sat :)
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:48 pm

chew* wrote:Stainless band clamps temporary or is that a slip fit pipe aka 1 slides in?

Even so might want to weld that, if planning to weld it and it's temporary well dismiss this entire post
There Special " welding clamps" summit sells. Their for mocking up piping. If you look closely, they have cuts in the center of them so you can tack them in place and then remove the clamp. The whole setup including hot and cold side, will only have 5 couplers.
Hudson_Neon wrote:that's a shit ton of piping
Not really. Its roughly 8" longer than if i would have ran it underneath.
BlackRT? wrote:under the trans... do it
too late..
r/tguy02 wrote:hes already having it welded up as we speak, should look really nice once its finished. i'm sure he'll post pics come fri or sat :)
Justin your like the first one to know anything lol. You usually even see it before it becomes facebook official lol.
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DetergentCandy
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Post by DetergentCandy » Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:27 pm

What valve cover is that?
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:29 pm

DetergentCandy wrote:What valve cover is that?
Pardon my lack of attention v.v
just a regular old dohc valve cover. ( 96)
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
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Post by Hudson_Neon » Tue Dec 11, 2012 5:18 pm

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
Hudson_Neon wrote:that's a shit ton of piping
Not really. Its roughly 8" longer than if i would have ran it underneath.
if you say so... knowing the dimensions of this engine bay and engine, you're looking at a solid 12-15" more of pipe and a less clean look. although if you're going for looks and not peak performance, this is looking good!

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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Tue Dec 11, 2012 5:53 pm

Hudson_Neon wrote:
XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
Hudson_Neon wrote:that's a shit ton of piping
Not really. Its roughly 8" longer than if i would have ran it underneath.
if you say so... knowing the dimensions of this engine bay and engine, you're looking at a solid 12-15" more of pipe and a less clean look. although if you're going for looks and not peak performance, this is looking good!
im going for more power while keeping it spotless.

Im not out to set records, just maybe break high 10's.



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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
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Post by chew* » Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:08 pm

Looks good and by routing the piping that way it leaves the option open to make a central mount from K frame to trans which I think will help you out a bit with putting power to the ground :)
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:12 pm

chew* wrote:Looks good and by routing the piping that way it leaves the option open to make a central mount from K frame to trans which I think will help you out a bit with putting power to the ground :)
i plan on making a central motor mount next spring which will also be adjustable so i can clock the motor/axles to eliminate wheel hop and get more traction.
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
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Post by esteinmaier » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:13 pm

I'm kinda confused by all that. I wish you would have called me before you did that. But if it works, I guess have fun! Maybe later down the road, do a different intercooler so you can just do the pipe directly without all that extra effort.
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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:22 pm

I was thinking that too eric, a same side in/out intercooler would def simplify things
Justin
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mopar2
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Post by mopar2 » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:26 pm

Like a Hahn intercooler! They were in and out on the same side.
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Post by chew* » Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:16 pm

XxWhiteNeonxX wrote:
chew* wrote:Looks good and by routing the piping that way it leaves the option open to make a central mount from K frame to trans which I think will help you out a bit with putting power to the ground :)
i plan on making a central motor mount next spring which will also be adjustable so i can clock the motor/axles to eliminate wheel hop and get more traction.
Since race car you can get away with what we did on the vette, they sell inside threaded arms/heimjoints. Get 2 of those some heavy duty grade 8 + threaded rod and you have a fully adjustable setup. Expect some vibration but ehh race car.

Thats what I had fabricated up for my PS delete, AC bracket delete and lower mount delete for my manual rack/K frame. That was before I decided that SC was just a bad idea and my pocket decided a complete srt swap with a healthy engine and trans for $700 total was a better solution.

Eric's intercooler advice is really good advice, the shorter you can pipe the better. Really no different than adding a MP BFMIC to an other wise stock srt......result = turbo lag.

Your current setup with a design like the hahn would actually be a shorter distance than a stock srt.
If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
But don't street race..!!??

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Post by Hudson_Neon » Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:54 pm

not worth wasting the air guys...

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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:30 am

I'm never gonna change it. Aluminum piping is expensive lol

I'm happy with it. It works and looks great.
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:27 pm

getting closer...
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:19 pm

Hated how close the passenger side of the intercooler fit, so i cut the rad support and reworked it. All the piping now clears and has tons of clearance.

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Everything mocked up ..
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
2004 dodge neon-300whp and counting

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XxWhiteNeonxX
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Post by XxWhiteNeonxX » Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:25 pm

all the body work done, undercoated and painted.
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anybody know where to get a water neck for this ? Its backwards of a standard 1gn water neck..
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sandblasted the fuel rail
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made this because if i would have just looped the line, it would of been kinked.
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Haganracing wrote: Love you Cody, even if you fail in life <3
Leighvi424 wrote:omg cody i think u gave me a woodie :P
2004 dodge neon-300whp and counting

esteinmaier
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Post by esteinmaier » Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:56 pm

I might recommend just tapping the threads on the bottom of the water neck for the coolant temp sensor. Then you can get rid of the vast majority of those clamped connections that could leak.
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Boosted22sxt
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Post by Boosted22sxt » Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:58 pm

i like it cant wait to see whats next!!

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