Any ideas on this leak? *Update*
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Any ideas on this leak? *Update*
**I didn't embed the images in the first post just to help with loading images... so it doesn't bog anyone's computer/phone down**
Was trying to do some searching on here, looked for axle seals, head gasket, etc.... not really sure what is causing this leak, for sure, because it is kind of all over the place.... and just wondering if, by the pics, anyone has any definitive answer...
Thanks!
Here's the two axles... passenger and then driver's side.
http://i48.tinypic.com/12210dc.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/ao9xy8.jpg
This is the head gasket area, right?..
http://i46.tinypic.com/3498k21.jpg
Oil pan area.
http://i49.tinypic.com/x3u0ci.jpg
And I read somewhere that if you can pull the axle in and out that it isn't seated properly.... well I can only pull it maybe half an inch out, then push it back in (easily), but not sure if that's enough to cause the trans fluid to leak (which I use 10w-40 HM Mobil 1 for my "gear fluid").
First picture is with it pushed in, and the second is with it pulled out a little bit..
http://i49.tinypic.com/xddpud.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/1o3vyd.jpg
Anyway, any ideas would be great... I work at an oil change shop, so I really don't mind adding oil whenever I need to, nor do I mind doing the work it takes to stop the leak.
Was trying to do some searching on here, looked for axle seals, head gasket, etc.... not really sure what is causing this leak, for sure, because it is kind of all over the place.... and just wondering if, by the pics, anyone has any definitive answer...
Thanks!
Here's the two axles... passenger and then driver's side.
http://i48.tinypic.com/12210dc.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/ao9xy8.jpg
This is the head gasket area, right?..
http://i46.tinypic.com/3498k21.jpg
Oil pan area.
http://i49.tinypic.com/x3u0ci.jpg
And I read somewhere that if you can pull the axle in and out that it isn't seated properly.... well I can only pull it maybe half an inch out, then push it back in (easily), but not sure if that's enough to cause the trans fluid to leak (which I use 10w-40 HM Mobil 1 for my "gear fluid").
First picture is with it pushed in, and the second is with it pulled out a little bit..
http://i49.tinypic.com/xddpud.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/1o3vyd.jpg
Anyway, any ideas would be great... I work at an oil change shop, so I really don't mind adding oil whenever I need to, nor do I mind doing the work it takes to stop the leak.
Last edited by 2005.Neon.SXT on Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I'd clean everything down as best you can and drive it a bit then look again, its really hard to chase down a leak when everything is covered in fluid.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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Best place to start.r/tguy02 wrote:I'd clean everything down as best you can and drive it a bit then look again, its really hard to chase down a leak when everything is covered in fluid.
Get some brake cleaner or something similar since it will blast all of that away without much effort.
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not really trying to make a plug for my work, but advance has bogo on brake cleaner. buy 6 cans, walk out with a whole case
your driver's axle has some seepage, but obviously can't cause the issue with the passenger side. i also have had this issue and it's honestly not that expensive to replace almost everything. i redid all my threaded parts on the back of the block, replaced the pan gasket, replaced the valve cover gasket, and all that left was rear main and head gasket. you could start with the other things as well for not too much of a dent in the wallet
also, just a word of advice... look into these things
your driver's axle has some seepage, but obviously can't cause the issue with the passenger side. i also have had this issue and it's honestly not that expensive to replace almost everything. i redid all my threaded parts on the back of the block, replaced the pan gasket, replaced the valve cover gasket, and all that left was rear main and head gasket. you could start with the other things as well for not too much of a dent in the wallet
also, just a word of advice... look into these things
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These being the "tough guards", are they any better than the red FRAM's? We started ordering Mobil 1's, so I'll run that. And we have an outstanding commercial account thru Advance.
Anyway, I'll spray everything down when I get a moment... It's raining today, so it may be next week when I do this. Just wondering if anyone had similar issues. I hope my trans/gear fluid isn't low...
Anyway, I'll spray everything down when I get a moment... It's raining today, so it may be next week when I do this. Just wondering if anyone had similar issues. I hope my trans/gear fluid isn't low...
hmm, thats funny because that happened to me recently and I found it to be my fram filter. My buddy had an extra older unused fram but the same size so i tossed that on. I haven't had an issue since. I had a noticable oil leak. it was dripping in the parking lot but underneath it looked exactly like yours.
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-Kevin
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Ya, I have used two different types. The Mobil1 will be the third, and I haven't tried the Pure One yet (which I've read is the best one).
We'll see if I get around to getting it fixed... I really want to get the Dart, so we'll see
Oh, and I have ALLDATA... which is awesome. Wish I had it before I started my timing belt job. Oh well
We'll see if I get around to getting it fixed... I really want to get the Dart, so we'll see
Oh, and I have ALLDATA... which is awesome. Wish I had it before I started my timing belt job. Oh well
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VC gasket, Cam position sensor. The VC gasket leak can seep behind the exhaust manifold, and give the appearance it is dry back there. Mine was leaking for some time before I finally just changed it, because I couldn't find any other source.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
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Alright, did a very very thorough cleanup of the underside. Cleaned the edges of the oil pan, the steering rack was coated in gunk (you can actually see the silver now), power steering cooler had a bunch of stuff between the fins, etc. Started it up for about 15 minutes, went downstairs and this is what I found... looks to be the head gasket?
Fresh oil on the oil pan to transmission brace.
Fresh oil above the oil pan (can see some on that one bolt).
This is near that green plug... oil pressure? Above the passenger axle.
And if this is the head gasket... what kind of (pain in the arse) job am I lookin at?
BTW, occasional mentioned the cam sensor. The cam sensor was wiped and cleaned and a new gasket was installed. The crank sensor is brand new... like a couple months old.
**EDIT**
Here's another picture... this one is below the cam position sensor. I already sprayed it down with brake cleaner, but what is this for? It was coated... and the trans below this sensor has a good bit of grit from this.
Fresh oil on the oil pan to transmission brace.
Fresh oil above the oil pan (can see some on that one bolt).
This is near that green plug... oil pressure? Above the passenger axle.
And if this is the head gasket... what kind of (pain in the arse) job am I lookin at?
BTW, occasional mentioned the cam sensor. The cam sensor was wiped and cleaned and a new gasket was installed. The crank sensor is brand new... like a couple months old.
**EDIT**
Here's another picture... this one is below the cam position sensor. I already sprayed it down with brake cleaner, but what is this for? It was coated... and the trans below this sensor has a good bit of grit from this.
Could be valve cover gasket or the oil pressure switch. They crack and leak sometimes. Could also be the rear main seal, or input shaft seal on the trans?
Sensor on the side of the head is the coolant temp sensor.
Sensor on the side of the head is the coolant temp sensor.
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the oil pressure switch went, all to common. you may also need to replace the connector because they get saturated with oil.
and that coolant switch looks fine if nothing is around it wet like the switch it might be leaking itself
and that coolant switch looks fine if nothing is around it wet like the switch it might be leaking itself
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i say cam sensor or oil pressure sensor is leaking
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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oil leak
My thoughts are vcg, cam sensor or oil pressure switch. I installed 2 cam sensors in the last 3 months. The first one was a BWD from Advance and it cracked internally which let it leak oil thru the elect. connection. The leak pattern was nothing like you have tho. with the quanity of oil you have my next thought would be the oil pressure sender.
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to clarify, can you get a shot of the back side of the head?
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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Ya, I'll get one tomorrow. I'll also get another look at the Cam sensor, since it got a good cleaning on Monday. But yesterday I did notice a good bit of oil on top of the transmission (below the cam sensor).
Which brand should I get? Also, I'm using a Mobil 1 OF now, so we'll see how that holds up.
Which brand should I get? Also, I'm using a Mobil 1 OF now, so we'll see how that holds up.
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I replaced the cam sensor o-ring twice, and ended up cleaning with brake clean, putting a bit of RTV in the groove, pressing the o-ring into that, and installing. Finally cured my CPS leak. I used Mopar o-rings. Still have the original sensor.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
i agree, mopar cam sensors and seals are the best
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
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Well in my case, it still wouldn't seal even with the Mopar o-ring. Possibly the sensor being original, it was/is warped just enough it won't seal without help. But does what it is supposed to do, so I can't see spending $$$ just to fix a pesky leak when a $4 tube of RTV does just fine.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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So I can't really get a decent picture of the oil pressure switch... hope this is enough. I know it's raining today, but it seems there's a lot of buildup on the exhaust shield portion behind the switch.
If I go about replacing this... does anyone have any suggestions on how the heck to get it out? lol... All Data doesn't really give me much.
If I go about replacing this... does anyone have any suggestions on how the heck to get it out? lol... All Data doesn't really give me much.
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You can get an oil sender socket from AutoZone. IIRC, it is 1/2 drive, so if you don't have a 1/2 drive ratchet, you will need to pick up an adapter if you have a 3/8 drive.
I am thinking a 1" deepwell socket fits too, but it may be 15/16, or 7/8. It is something in that range.
I reach down from the top, but you may need to remove the battery to get better access.
Slide the red lock up, and then you cn unlatch the connector.
Edit:
I am thinking a 1" deepwell socket fits too, but it may be 15/16, or 7/8. It is something in that range.
I reach down from the top, but you may need to remove the battery to get better access.
Slide the red lock up, and then you cn unlatch the connector.
Edit:
DJ CptnCrnch wrote:I got off my ass to look at the part. The part that i have says Performance Tool, #w80590 size is 1-1 1/16 hope that helps
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
i always took mine out from the bottom. used an open end wrench or adjustable. but then again i have a LTH and access from the top isnt really an option anymore
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
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Changed my valve cover gasket, as well as the oil pressure switch/sensor, yesterday. Gonna post some pics of the top end.. Glad to say that there is absolutely no sludge or damage... For a motor that has well over 100k miles... It looks friggin immaculate.
Gonna clean up any oil leak leftover tomorrow, and see if there is another leak elsewhere.
*EDIT*
Here's the pictures. First is of the underside of the valve cover. Second one is of the motor. And the last one I tried to get a shot of the sensor... But I gave up lol.
Gonna clean up any oil leak leftover tomorrow, and see if there is another leak elsewhere.
*EDIT*
Here's the pictures. First is of the underside of the valve cover. Second one is of the motor. And the last one I tried to get a shot of the sensor... But I gave up lol.