chew*'s 01 Neon Mtx Project
The vaccum lines are simple really. Line goes from valvecover to catch can, pcv screws into exit side of can, line goes from there to intake.
Its just a resevoir to catch oil from clogging PCV under hard cornering. Simple pcv relocation. Hardlines allow for floating installation which is preety clean compared to most catch can setups. Can't specify enough that testing with a vaccum gauge is a must if going custom to ensure no vaccum leaks. Also brass fitting that screws into VC must be shaved down shorter or it will bottom out and crack VC.
The other hardline is the one from VC to airbox or CAI in my case, both run close to engine to heat lines during winter months. When I get around to it I'll run a hardline to manifold vacuum also as its a cleaner look.
Ok installed dogbone mounts....word of advice if gutted expect major vibration and noise if using dogbones. Also my urethane filled mounts seem to work just as good without vibration, still have some slack due to blown out LCA bushings..
TOB, transmount poly insert and prothane LCA bushings arrive tommorrow. Got my centerforce dual friction stage 3 clutch, tranny ready to install. Hopefully have it all in tommorow night.
List of things to come.
New balljoints, tie rods to go with manual rack.
front brakes,rotors rear disc brake swap.
After that headwork, cam, fresh engine ( still no luck killing current engine )
Reinstall the safc with tach driver and wideband with serial port for data logging and tune
Then i can get to work on the silver cars srt swap till I find a clean black shell to swap all the parts from daily into.
Its just a resevoir to catch oil from clogging PCV under hard cornering. Simple pcv relocation. Hardlines allow for floating installation which is preety clean compared to most catch can setups. Can't specify enough that testing with a vaccum gauge is a must if going custom to ensure no vaccum leaks. Also brass fitting that screws into VC must be shaved down shorter or it will bottom out and crack VC.
The other hardline is the one from VC to airbox or CAI in my case, both run close to engine to heat lines during winter months. When I get around to it I'll run a hardline to manifold vacuum also as its a cleaner look.
Ok installed dogbone mounts....word of advice if gutted expect major vibration and noise if using dogbones. Also my urethane filled mounts seem to work just as good without vibration, still have some slack due to blown out LCA bushings..
TOB, transmount poly insert and prothane LCA bushings arrive tommorrow. Got my centerforce dual friction stage 3 clutch, tranny ready to install. Hopefully have it all in tommorow night.
List of things to come.
New balljoints, tie rods to go with manual rack.
front brakes,rotors rear disc brake swap.
After that headwork, cam, fresh engine ( still no luck killing current engine )
Reinstall the safc with tach driver and wideband with serial port for data logging and tune
Then i can get to work on the silver cars srt swap till I find a clean black shell to swap all the parts from daily into.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
MP package arrived today so I was like woot.....till I opened it and found no TOB and a note that its OOS and being shipped seperate.
Anyway no TOB means no tranny this weekend.
Anyway no TOB means no tranny this weekend.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Dog bones, urethane trans insert, filled PS engine mount,front control arm bushings done. Took car out down back road I test on and launched it at 3500 rpms with regular street tires, ( previous launch rpm ) it barely spun tire and stumbled so its definitely putting power to the ground now and rattling apart .
Tossed a set of rotors on that were decent from previous parts car as the race pads seem to not be treating them nice, about 200 stress cracks so slottted/drilled rotors are on the list.
Balljoints are ok but boots are tired so still plan on going new as well as tie rods and a DS wheel bearing which is just starting to show signs of play.
Once trans with lsd and stage 3 clutch is in I will play around more to see where my launch rpm needs to be to get out of the hole quick without falling on its face.
Kinda glad im doing/testing all this stuff on this car as its helping to determine what i want/don't want in my silver swap car.
Dogbones are definitely off the list since Im going more for luxury with attitude and not a rattle trap race car.
Tossed a set of rotors on that were decent from previous parts car as the race pads seem to not be treating them nice, about 200 stress cracks so slottted/drilled rotors are on the list.
Balljoints are ok but boots are tired so still plan on going new as well as tie rods and a DS wheel bearing which is just starting to show signs of play.
Once trans with lsd and stage 3 clutch is in I will play around more to see where my launch rpm needs to be to get out of the hole quick without falling on its face.
Kinda glad im doing/testing all this stuff on this car as its helping to determine what i want/don't want in my silver swap car.
Dogbones are definitely off the list since Im going more for luxury with attitude and not a rattle trap race car.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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- 2GN Member
- Posts: 4137
- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:56 am
- Location: Cumberland R.I.
Nice to see the car coming together. ..
Im upgrading my fronts to srt-4's so the front rotors will be a different style from the rears(my ocd won't allow that lol). ...so once I get back from Carlisle I'll be putting new ones on the rear. . If you want them. I'll text you with more details. ..they are pretty much new with Hawk hps pads...
Im upgrading my fronts to srt-4's so the front rotors will be a different style from the rears(my ocd won't allow that lol). ...so once I get back from Carlisle I'll be putting new ones on the rear. . If you want them. I'll text you with more details. ..they are pretty much new with Hawk hps pads...
Well no real progress.
Still waiting on a TOB from modern, first one was OOS delayed and when i got it it had a missing tab.......going on 3 weeks now so slightly annoyed by this point.
They told me I need to be carefull with them as If I broke it installing it....... Really? It's not even out of the bag yet and they knew that since I sent them pictures.
Tossed my safc II back in this time with a msd tach adapter and the tach reading is way off.....one or the other is bad.
So all in all not to happy atm.
Decided to start porting my buddies intake for his build.
Still waiting on a TOB from modern, first one was OOS delayed and when i got it it had a missing tab.......going on 3 weeks now so slightly annoyed by this point.
They told me I need to be carefull with them as If I broke it installing it....... Really? It's not even out of the bag yet and they knew that since I sent them pictures.
Tossed my safc II back in this time with a msd tach adapter and the tach reading is way off.....one or the other is bad.
So all in all not to happy atm.
Decided to start porting my buddies intake for his build.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
R34neons 3.94 RT trans rebuilt, modded, LSD, stage3 centerforce all in.
Cars still very low 15's.
Just a little bit more and high 14s are in its grasp.
Cars still very low 15's.
Just a little bit more and high 14s are in its grasp.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
More work on my buddies intake. Still got a ways to go before we tackle the head.....
I don't gasket match the mid section nor do I reccomend for all motor street applications however I do clean up the casting and polish.
stock primary,secondary.
Cleaned up primary and secondary.
Oh and my car got Kumho ecsta ast 195/55/15's this week so its got a wee bit more traction now
I don't gasket match the mid section nor do I reccomend for all motor street applications however I do clean up the casting and polish.
stock primary,secondary.
Cleaned up primary and secondary.
Oh and my car got Kumho ecsta ast 195/55/15's this week so its got a wee bit more traction now
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Yep just one belt now,ac deleted long ago.akirony wrote:Sounds awesome. So just one belt now?
Preety much only need worry about alternator and starter now. Starter just went last week, guess car was jealous of newer cars and took push to start literally lol
In other news i tossed a few mods into a 2000 t350 hd 3.55fd for a member here over weekend, got the bell housing swap, diffsavers, tacked slinger and shimmed shift selector mods. Shifts great, we shall see how it holds up since its a hahn turbo kit single jingle car.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Experimenting a little with some more changes on the plastic VC before i install the R/T one, not sure if I want the 2.0 16 valve emblem red or aluminum. I just hand painted it red today, gaff job but enough to see how it will look.
Also took A K&N CAI i scored for free down to bare metal, going with flat black to hold with my "flat black and natural aluminum with red highlights theme"
Also took A K&N CAI i scored for free down to bare metal, going with flat black to hold with my "flat black and natural aluminum with red highlights theme"
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Haven't updated in a while so here goes.
Still have manual rack, love it. Haven't crashed it. Haven't raced it in a while. I haven't had anything break other then rear struts blowing out which I have run out of used replacements for finally.
So general maintenance time.
Grabbed new ball joints, inner outer tie rods, scribe, paint, measuring tape.
removed outer tie rods sunday. Removed boots off rack. Guess what.....inner tie rods on manual racks = non serviceable. They are peened on rack. Removing will likely damage threads where rack screws into them.....also inner tie rods for 1 gen neons are not the same as 2 gen neons. Manual rack owners keep this is mind. Plan b grabbed right size die, chased threads on inner tie rod ends to remove rust ( why I was changing them ). Installed outers. Grabbed my old control arms with prothane lca's, knocked old ball joints out, pressed in new. Lined up front end good enough not to wipe out tires and tested.
tommorow a set of kyb excel gr2 arrive so I will adress that issue next. After that I need to do rear control arms or bushings.....after that alignment.
cars pushing over 200k now but engine refuses to give up so im gonna roll with it for now.......lsd 3.94 trans sux in the snow but its tolerable. With 90% of common bs problems eliminated and or solutions found I find the car far more enjoyable to drive. Probably because im actually driving it daily instead of fixing it daily
Still have manual rack, love it. Haven't crashed it. Haven't raced it in a while. I haven't had anything break other then rear struts blowing out which I have run out of used replacements for finally.
So general maintenance time.
Grabbed new ball joints, inner outer tie rods, scribe, paint, measuring tape.
removed outer tie rods sunday. Removed boots off rack. Guess what.....inner tie rods on manual racks = non serviceable. They are peened on rack. Removing will likely damage threads where rack screws into them.....also inner tie rods for 1 gen neons are not the same as 2 gen neons. Manual rack owners keep this is mind. Plan b grabbed right size die, chased threads on inner tie rod ends to remove rust ( why I was changing them ). Installed outers. Grabbed my old control arms with prothane lca's, knocked old ball joints out, pressed in new. Lined up front end good enough not to wipe out tires and tested.
tommorow a set of kyb excel gr2 arrive so I will adress that issue next. After that I need to do rear control arms or bushings.....after that alignment.
cars pushing over 200k now but engine refuses to give up so im gonna roll with it for now.......lsd 3.94 trans sux in the snow but its tolerable. With 90% of common bs problems eliminated and or solutions found I find the car far more enjoyable to drive. Probably because im actually driving it daily instead of fixing it daily
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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- 2GN Member
- Posts: 4137
- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:56 am
- Location: Cumberland R.I.
Haven't updated in a while. Haven't done anything either. I did ball joints when I did kybs in rear had it aligned and just drive it. Lives at redline daily. Still refuses to break. Puffs a little at redline nowadays. All I do is change oil tires brakes. Getting itch to put lowmileage block in with r/t head. Maybe soon.
Oh I cat deleted last week put a new flex on downpipe with obx header and installed my vibrant cat 02 sploofer. No cels and regained some power.
Sorted out my issue with my tach adapter but to lazy to install innovate wideband and street tune it with my safc.
Still hunting for a semi clean black shell but no luck. I guess my lip kit and skirts will continue to collect dust till I find one.
Oh I cat deleted last week put a new flex on downpipe with obx header and installed my vibrant cat 02 sploofer. No cels and regained some power.
Sorted out my issue with my tach adapter but to lazy to install innovate wideband and street tune it with my safc.
Still hunting for a semi clean black shell but no luck. I guess my lip kit and skirts will continue to collect dust till I find one.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
This project finally has come to an end. Had a mini stroke in a parking lot monday and tagged a cement block. This is what happens when an unstoppable force ( an engine that seemingly refuses to die under the harshest abuse for 3 years +) meets an immovable object. I was only going 5 mph. Came out of it just a second to late, did my best to pull out of it. Literrally an inch less and car would have been easily fixable. I managed to avoid nailing the bumper support / frame rail only to nail the upper strut tower frame rail. Happened so fast never had time to hit brakes all I could do was steer out of it in the split second when I came back.
As you can see I did my best to avoid frame rail considering circumstances.
My best just wasn't good enough.
This is what preety much seals its fate.
Anyway in other news I found a black shell to swap parts into. Just wanted to do it on my terms versus being forced to do it.
As you can see I did my best to avoid frame rail considering circumstances.
My best just wasn't good enough.
This is what preety much seals its fate.
Anyway in other news I found a black shell to swap parts into. Just wanted to do it on my terms versus being forced to do it.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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- Spam Avenger!
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