MyNeonSaysHi Mod Log: Stone White

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 12:48 pm

http://www.24designs.net/index.php?main ... d4ev54m3h0
I took the black dash off and it looks better.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:32 pm

My mustang mach 1 splitter came in yesterday. Will install tomorrow. Also...
Hood will be here Tuesday. Can't wait!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 12:42 am

Never did get around to installing the splitter. Needed more time/work that I didn't have at the moment. Hopefully on Sunday I will get it on.

The CF hood arrived. Always heard good things about Kaminari. But unfortunately it had a nickel sized glob in the clear/resin. So long story short, the owner apologized and I have it all packed up and they are going to pay for shipping back and are in the process of making a new hood for me and will be shipped on their expense. All due to someone not looking it over well before shipment.

Hard to see in picture. But its a bit worse in person @ the right angle.

In other news I will be picking up a low mileage LSD SRT-4 transmission. SRT-4 long block minus AC/PS. Hahn 20G turbofold, AGP hardpipes w/ BOV and a CTI chargepipe for a very good price.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:12 pm

Ended up getting a rear SRT-4 rear fascia in flame red and a full 3'' stainless exhaust too. Not sure on the brand of it.

Got my Mach 1 chin splitter installed on the car. Excuse the car for being a little dirty.

90% satisfied with the fitment of the lip. Was too long, had to shorten it. Had to make multiple relief cuts.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:50 pm

Hood is here!

2005.Neon.SXT · Post by **2005.Neon.SXT** » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:13 pm

Wow that is a beautiful hood.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:02 am

Thanks man. Here it is on the whip:

BlackRT? · Post by **BlackRT?** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:53 am

love that hood car looks nice

2005.Neon.SXT · Post by **2005.Neon.SXT** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:36 am

I love that look. Very awesome! Also love the two deletes that you installed on the front just to clean it up a bit.

You donating the stock hood to charity?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:17 am

Thanks guys.
Yeah the CF deletes go well with the hood.

Probably use it as a sled!?
Stock hood will go on during the winter time, even though I don't plan on driving this car much during the winter.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:54 pm

EEEWWWWWW!!

Sorry man. This car was SO clean when it was silver and simple. It's too much going on now, which the unpainted lip, CF deletes and giant hood. Colormatch that hood and I'd probably start drooling a bit again.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:24 am

Hmmmmm. I respect everyones opinion. You are right on it being clean and simple when it didn't have lip or CF hood. I believe it made the car a bit unique and look more aggressive with the CF hood and ABS plastic lip. Silver is a really boring color and I honestly was always against the whole black and silver theme. But having black housing headlights and those CF deletes...the car wanted more CF and more black. And those two additions helped me get that "show/aggressive look" that will make it stand out a bit more. Now I will NEVER get black rims, and from the back it looks like a regular neon to most folk.

Not sure on painting that lip Ps2 would look good.. Unless it was molded. I was actually thinking about getting a set of CF eyelids to make it even look more aggressive..For a neon that is.

Doing all this helps me get my mind off of getting into another car. I mean I have had this car for quite some time and there are times I want to go onto another platform but adding and subtracting a couple things here and there helps a lot to enjoy what I have and be debt free. (Minus the house

)

As for colormatching the hood, That might be something down the line. But Kaminari uses the best resin and they actually clear the hood so it lasts for a long time and will not yellow/fade/crack like ALL the other CF hoods out there.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Sep 13, 2013 2:15 am

Ordered new wheels.

They weigh only 14.6lbs each. I have an old set of 17x7 that were on the black SRT. The rims need some TLC.. The tires are like brand new. So I am going to dismount the tires at this DIY place for $10 Then clean up and sell the old ones to offset the cost of the wheels. Was kind of an impulse buy since my brother got a set of Blue Sparco wheels for his GSR. I have always wanted a nice lightweight set of wheels.

Also, what do you guys think of CF eyelids to go with the hood? I ran painted to match eyelids back in the day. But now with the CF hood I think a nice set of CF eyelids would look killer on the black housings.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:59 pm

New rims mounted. Very tight fit. They do not have them listed for my car on discounttiredirct.com. Luckily they fit.. Check how close they are to my BC's!

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 8:06 pm

Well, what are they?!

2005.Neon.SXT · Post by **2005.Neon.SXT** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:36 pm

Yes, some shorty's would look nice with the hood.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:14 pm

I'm late to this thread but I like the lip.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:02 am

Some of you might know that I had a transmission issue. Well from what advice I have been given from friends and the good guys on 2gn and SRTforums is that my TOB/Clutch Fork/Pivot Ball is shot. Perhaps the clutch too. A guy running a vanilla Mopar Stage 3 setup, Probably around 330ft lbs to the wheels is having to replace the same clutch I have in my car after only 26k miles. I am at around 53k or so. Thought it would last longer honestly. So I began the start process of removing the transmission. Going to take my time with it and figure out what I am going to need before I actually start spending $$$ on new parts.

While the car has been down I have been thinking about other good performance cars that are reliable and powerful. One car that REALLY sparked my interest is the C5 Corvette Z06. 2002-2004 since those were the years with the 405hp LS6. 2 door, RWD, RAW NA V8 power with good highway MPGS.
I have always had respect for Corvettes, but they are everywhere around here. But they honestly do look good, and can look killer when modded properly and turn heads. Just like with any car. Well most..

The best part is that they are fairly cheap! Like $18-$22k ish cheap with only like 50k miles. And they are lightly modded for the most part or bone stock.

So at this point I am actually thinking of an escape route with my SRT-4. Yes I know, I just put around $1200k into it with new rims and a CF hood. But I can always sell that and make MOST of it back. Just takes time. But since my car does not have power steering or AC that will be very difficult. Plus the fact I am going to have to throw a good amount of money into transmission parts listed above.
I got to thinking that to make the most money would be to part it out? Is that where the most money is? But I am honestly looking to try something out different. Since I know I have a garage and a daily driver, why not have a sweet C5 Corvette Z06 that only see's sunny days? I know insurance will be more, but I will look into that.

Just my late night ramble for the night.

Edit: Also looking at 370z's.

Ramroid · Post by **Ramroid** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:34 am

You can never go wrong with a fox body mustang. Easy to build,cheap to build, and always fun. Another thing, look into an e36 BMW m3. I had one, they're more pricey to squeeze more power out of, but you get what you pay for. Plus, that straight six sounds amazing.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:42 pm

I think you could get a decent amount for your car assembled. Another possibility is putting it back to stock turbo and selling the stage 3 kit separately.

I would like to pick up that spare long block you just got though, I know a certain minivan that needs it.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:05 am

Ramroid wrote:You can never go wrong with a fox body mustang. Easy to build,cheap to build, and always fun. Another thing, look into an e36 BMW m3. I had one, they're more pricey to squeeze more power out of, but you get what you pay for. Plus, that straight six sounds amazing.

I love a nice Foxbody, but even when they are nicely modded with good paint and wheels they are ugly IMO. C5 Vettes are sexy. Not a fan of those BMW's., don't really like the looks.

I think you could get a decent amount for your car assembled. Another possibility is putting it back to stock turbo and selling the stage 3 kit separately.

I would like to pick up that spare long block you just got though, I know a certain minivan that needs it.

I probably could get a max of $8k out of it due to mileage. But its super well maintained and runs great. Motor will probably be sold locally. So much easier. Have two guys already interested in it. Just holding on to it right now. But I would love to see your old 5 speed Minivan get a SRT motor!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Oct 10, 2013 2:06 am

Finally got the transmission out by myself. Like I said, I have been taking my time. No rush really. Time to figure out what all is wrong with it tommorrow and figure out what I need to order and do. (On vacation from both jobs starting tomorrow.

)

For documenting purposes. Car has 129200 miles on it right now.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 12:57 pm

Might as well update this for documenting purposes:

Clutch disc:

Flywheel side

Pivotball:

Fork and TOB

Other side:

I could move 3 of the 4 springs on the clutch disc. I was told this is normal on a used clutch.

That is supposed to be flat... Known to wear out fast on the SRT-4's. Probably my main issue.

Shift plate looked fine. Along with the shift selector that people usually break from slamming gears...(What circled is not the shift selector FYI)

LSD:

Magnet in the case. Has some metal filings on it. Guess its just normal wear and tear for a 130k transmission

T-850 input shaft bearing play? - YouTube
^Input shaft bearing has a tiny bit of play. Was told this is normal by a transmission shop.
But all the synchros look good and so do the shift forks.

I also checked the clutch disc thickness. Chatted with ACT and I was told new the clutch disc thickness is .315. Anything below .270 it should be replaced. I am at .279....

Close to worn out is .255 to .260... Soooooo its time to list what I will be replacing since EVERYTHING is apart.

Here are NEW parts I have now in my possesion:
-ACT Street clutch disc
-ACT clutch alignment tool
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball
-Mopar OEM TOB
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel

NEW parts I am waiting on:
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)

Anything else I should replace while I am in there, let me know

I was thinking about doing the rear main seal but its not leaking.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:37 pm

A bit bored. So I tossed up everything that will be going in and how much I spent for personal records. (Prices include shipping)

-ACT Street clutch disc= $147.37
-ACT clutch alignment tool=$5
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork=$115 w/ core
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball= $35
-Mopar OEM TOB=$80
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel= $30
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate=$247.32
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals= $32
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder= $234
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP=$13
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)=$40

Grand total= $978.69~~~ in parts

POSSIBLE MANUAL RACK BUSHINGS
Ford 05-07 Super Duty
F81Z-5484-HA
BA

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:45 am

Remember the noise my transmission was making? Well I think the culprit was found.

I took my transmission to a shop to have them check everything over and assemble it. Well he noticed 3rd and 4th gear were hard to turn. So he disassembled the input shaft and 3rd gear needlebearing was toast. Literally fell apart. So did the snap ring.

So 3rd and 4th gear needlebearings ordered along with retainer nut and snap ring. Got all the parts in the mail to find out I got the wrong snap ring. The tech was leaving to Mexico for a full month too in the next day. So I need to order 05102728AA, its only a $3.50 part but shipping is like $15 on all websites. PWERKS offers a supposed upgraded snap ring for $15 but not sure what is so better about it then the stock one so I emailed them 3/30. Waiting on a response.

Also looking to remove my subframe so I can do my manual rack. Seems like taking that thing off will be a hard without a lift. Tried tackling the sway bar endlink and man they are on too tight...= busted knuckle. Weird they are not metric either, 9/16ths. Probably because its the Hotchkis unit.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:36 pm

Removing the subframe isn't too bad, just the steering lines are a pain, but if you are going manual, you could just cut them, if you don't plan on saving them. Undo the rack pinion pinch bolt inside the car, and drop the entire subframe/control arms as an assy. Leave the knuckles/etc attached to the struts. I used a floor jack to lower/raise the assy.

The worst part is balancing it on the jack. But I managed it by myself.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:45 pm

occasional demons wrote:Removing the subframe isn't too bad, just the steering lines are a pain, but if you are going manual, you could just cut them, if you don't plan on saving them. Undo the rack pinion pinch bolt inside the car, and drop the entire subframe/control arms as an assy. Leave the knuckles/etc attached to the struts. I used a floor jack to lower/raise the assy.

The worst part is balancing it on the jack. But I managed it by myself.

Well I have the knuckles off of the struts because tranny came out. But the ball joints are still in with the knuckles.
Huge props for doing something like that by yourself.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:57 pm

I mainly left the knuckles on the struts, so I wouldn't have to pull the axles/deal with the brakes. You could just slap the four bolts back in to hang them from the struts. Or leave them on, but it would be more weight to deal with.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:39 am

I'll say good luck... When i removed the k frame from my silver car to get it powder coated it was a chore etti g the bolts out. 1 of the big ones broke off in the frame. I had to get a new bolt and a new nut with the flat steel welded on it which is supposed to prevent it from turning... That didnt work for me. It just sliced a hole in the frame rail.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:46 pm

I hope I don't break anything. Will probably buy a can of Kroil:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Heard really good things about it.

So what did you end up doing if it just sliced a hole in your frame rail?