MyNeonSaysHi Mod Log: Stone White
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Location: Kansas
- MyNeonSaysHi
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 12090
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
- MyNeonSaysHi
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 12090
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
Never did get around to installing the splitter. Needed more time/work that I didn't have at the moment. Hopefully on Sunday I will get it on.
The CF hood arrived. Always heard good things about Kaminari. But unfortunately it had a nickel sized glob in the clear/resin. So long story short, the owner apologized and I have it all packed up and they are going to pay for shipping back and are in the process of making a new hood for me and will be shipped on their expense. All due to someone not looking it over well before shipment.
Hard to see in picture. But its a bit worse in person @ the right angle.
In other news I will be picking up a low mileage LSD SRT-4 transmission. SRT-4 long block minus AC/PS. Hahn 20G turbofold, AGP hardpipes w/ BOV and a CTI chargepipe for a very good price.
The CF hood arrived. Always heard good things about Kaminari. But unfortunately it had a nickel sized glob in the clear/resin. So long story short, the owner apologized and I have it all packed up and they are going to pay for shipping back and are in the process of making a new hood for me and will be shipped on their expense. All due to someone not looking it over well before shipment.
Hard to see in picture. But its a bit worse in person @ the right angle.
In other news I will be picking up a low mileage LSD SRT-4 transmission. SRT-4 long block minus AC/PS. Hahn 20G turbofold, AGP hardpipes w/ BOV and a CTI chargepipe for a very good price.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Location: Kansas
Ended up getting a rear SRT-4 rear fascia in flame red and a full 3'' stainless exhaust too. Not sure on the brand of it.
Got my Mach 1 chin splitter installed on the car. Excuse the car for being a little dirty.
90% satisfied with the fitment of the lip. Was too long, had to shorten it. Had to make multiple relief cuts.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- 2005.Neon.SXT
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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- MyNeonSaysHi
- 2GN Veteran
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- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Posts: 12090
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
Hmmmmm. I respect everyones opinion. You are right on it being clean and simple when it didn't have lip or CF hood. I believe it made the car a bit unique and look more aggressive with the CF hood and ABS plastic lip. Silver is a really boring color and I honestly was always against the whole black and silver theme. But having black housing headlights and those CF deletes...the car wanted more CF and more black. And those two additions helped me get that "show/aggressive look" that will make it stand out a bit more. Now I will NEVER get black rims, and from the back it looks like a regular neon to most folk.
Not sure on painting that lip Ps2 would look good.. Unless it was molded. I was actually thinking about getting a set of CF eyelids to make it even look more aggressive..For a neon that is. Doing all this helps me get my mind off of getting into another car. I mean I have had this car for quite some time and there are times I want to go onto another platform but adding and subtracting a couple things here and there helps a lot to enjoy what I have and be debt free. (Minus the house )
As for colormatching the hood, That might be something down the line. But Kaminari uses the best resin and they actually clear the hood so it lasts for a long time and will not yellow/fade/crack like ALL the other CF hoods out there.
Not sure on painting that lip Ps2 would look good.. Unless it was molded. I was actually thinking about getting a set of CF eyelids to make it even look more aggressive..For a neon that is. Doing all this helps me get my mind off of getting into another car. I mean I have had this car for quite some time and there are times I want to go onto another platform but adding and subtracting a couple things here and there helps a lot to enjoy what I have and be debt free. (Minus the house )
As for colormatching the hood, That might be something down the line. But Kaminari uses the best resin and they actually clear the hood so it lasts for a long time and will not yellow/fade/crack like ALL the other CF hoods out there.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Ordered new wheels. They weigh only 14.6lbs each. I have an old set of 17x7 that were on the black SRT. The rims need some TLC.. The tires are like brand new. So I am going to dismount the tires at this DIY place for $10 Then clean up and sell the old ones to offset the cost of the wheels. Was kind of an impulse buy since my brother got a set of Blue Sparco wheels for his GSR. I have always wanted a nice lightweight set of wheels.
Also, what do you guys think of CF eyelids to go with the hood? I ran painted to match eyelids back in the day. But now with the CF hood I think a nice set of CF eyelids would look killer on the black housings.
Also, what do you guys think of CF eyelids to go with the hood? I ran painted to match eyelids back in the day. But now with the CF hood I think a nice set of CF eyelids would look killer on the black housings.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Well, what are they?!
So many neons so little time.
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- 2005.Neon.SXT
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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Some of you might know that I had a transmission issue. Well from what advice I have been given from friends and the good guys on 2gn and SRTforums is that my TOB/Clutch Fork/Pivot Ball is shot. Perhaps the clutch too. A guy running a vanilla Mopar Stage 3 setup, Probably around 330ft lbs to the wheels is having to replace the same clutch I have in my car after only 26k miles. I am at around 53k or so. Thought it would last longer honestly. So I began the start process of removing the transmission. Going to take my time with it and figure out what I am going to need before I actually start spending $$$ on new parts.
While the car has been down I have been thinking about other good performance cars that are reliable and powerful. One car that REALLY sparked my interest is the C5 Corvette Z06. 2002-2004 since those were the years with the 405hp LS6. 2 door, RWD, RAW NA V8 power with good highway MPGS.
I have always had respect for Corvettes, but they are everywhere around here. But they honestly do look good, and can look killer when modded properly and turn heads. Just like with any car. Well most..
The best part is that they are fairly cheap! Like $18-$22k ish cheap with only like 50k miles. And they are lightly modded for the most part or bone stock.
So at this point I am actually thinking of an escape route with my SRT-4. Yes I know, I just put around $1200k into it with new rims and a CF hood. But I can always sell that and make MOST of it back. Just takes time. But since my car does not have power steering or AC that will be very difficult. Plus the fact I am going to have to throw a good amount of money into transmission parts listed above.
I got to thinking that to make the most money would be to part it out? Is that where the most money is? But I am honestly looking to try something out different. Since I know I have a garage and a daily driver, why not have a sweet C5 Corvette Z06 that only see's sunny days? I know insurance will be more, but I will look into that.
Just my late night ramble for the night.
Edit: Also looking at 370z's.
While the car has been down I have been thinking about other good performance cars that are reliable and powerful. One car that REALLY sparked my interest is the C5 Corvette Z06. 2002-2004 since those were the years with the 405hp LS6. 2 door, RWD, RAW NA V8 power with good highway MPGS.
I have always had respect for Corvettes, but they are everywhere around here. But they honestly do look good, and can look killer when modded properly and turn heads. Just like with any car. Well most..
The best part is that they are fairly cheap! Like $18-$22k ish cheap with only like 50k miles. And they are lightly modded for the most part or bone stock.
So at this point I am actually thinking of an escape route with my SRT-4. Yes I know, I just put around $1200k into it with new rims and a CF hood. But I can always sell that and make MOST of it back. Just takes time. But since my car does not have power steering or AC that will be very difficult. Plus the fact I am going to have to throw a good amount of money into transmission parts listed above.
I got to thinking that to make the most money would be to part it out? Is that where the most money is? But I am honestly looking to try something out different. Since I know I have a garage and a daily driver, why not have a sweet C5 Corvette Z06 that only see's sunny days? I know insurance will be more, but I will look into that.
Just my late night ramble for the night.
Edit: Also looking at 370z's.
Last edited by MyNeonSaysHi on Thu Oct 10, 2013 2:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
I think you could get a decent amount for your car assembled. Another possibility is putting it back to stock turbo and selling the stage 3 kit separately.
I would like to pick up that spare long block you just got though, I know a certain minivan that needs it.
I would like to pick up that spare long block you just got though, I know a certain minivan that needs it.
So many neons so little time.
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
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I love a nice Foxbody, but even when they are nicely modded with good paint and wheels they are ugly IMO. C5 Vettes are sexy. Not a fan of those BMW's., don't really like the looks.Ramroid wrote:You can never go wrong with a fox body mustang. Easy to build,cheap to build, and always fun. Another thing, look into an e36 BMW m3. I had one, they're more pricey to squeeze more power out of, but you get what you pay for. Plus, that straight six sounds amazing.
I probably could get a max of $8k out of it due to mileage. But its super well maintained and runs great. Motor will probably be sold locally. So much easier. Have two guys already interested in it. Just holding on to it right now. But I would love to see your old 5 speed Minivan get a SRT motor!I think you could get a decent amount for your car assembled. Another possibility is putting it back to stock turbo and selling the stage 3 kit separately.
I would like to pick up that spare long block you just got though, I know a certain minivan that needs it.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Finally got the transmission out by myself. Like I said, I have been taking my time. No rush really. Time to figure out what all is wrong with it tommorrow and figure out what I need to order and do. (On vacation from both jobs starting tomorrow. )
For documenting purposes. Car has 129200 miles on it right now.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Might as well update this for documenting purposes:
Clutch disc:
Flywheel side
Pivotball:
Fork and TOB
Other side:
I could move 3 of the 4 springs on the clutch disc. I was told this is normal on a used clutch.
That is supposed to be flat... Known to wear out fast on the SRT-4's. Probably my main issue.
Shift plate looked fine. Along with the shift selector that people usually break from slamming gears...(What circled is not the shift selector FYI)
LSD:
Magnet in the case. Has some metal filings on it. Guess its just normal wear and tear for a 130k transmission
T-850 input shaft bearing play? - YouTube
^Input shaft bearing has a tiny bit of play. Was told this is normal by a transmission shop.
But all the synchros look good and so do the shift forks.
I also checked the clutch disc thickness. Chatted with ACT and I was told new the clutch disc thickness is .315. Anything below .270 it should be replaced. I am at .279....
Close to worn out is .255 to .260... Soooooo its time to list what I will be replacing since EVERYTHING is apart.
Here are NEW parts I have now in my possesion:
-ACT Street clutch disc
-ACT clutch alignment tool
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball
-Mopar OEM TOB
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel
NEW parts I am waiting on:
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)
Anything else I should replace while I am in there, let me know
I was thinking about doing the rear main seal but its not leaking.
Clutch disc:
Flywheel side
Pivotball:
Fork and TOB
Other side:
I could move 3 of the 4 springs on the clutch disc. I was told this is normal on a used clutch.
That is supposed to be flat... Known to wear out fast on the SRT-4's. Probably my main issue.
Shift plate looked fine. Along with the shift selector that people usually break from slamming gears...(What circled is not the shift selector FYI)
LSD:
Magnet in the case. Has some metal filings on it. Guess its just normal wear and tear for a 130k transmission
T-850 input shaft bearing play? - YouTube
^Input shaft bearing has a tiny bit of play. Was told this is normal by a transmission shop.
But all the synchros look good and so do the shift forks.
I also checked the clutch disc thickness. Chatted with ACT and I was told new the clutch disc thickness is .315. Anything below .270 it should be replaced. I am at .279....
Close to worn out is .255 to .260... Soooooo its time to list what I will be replacing since EVERYTHING is apart.
Here are NEW parts I have now in my possesion:
-ACT Street clutch disc
-ACT clutch alignment tool
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball
-Mopar OEM TOB
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel
NEW parts I am waiting on:
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)
Anything else I should replace while I am in there, let me know
I was thinking about doing the rear main seal but its not leaking.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
- 2GN Veteran
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- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
- Location: Kansas
A bit bored. So I tossed up everything that will be going in and how much I spent for personal records. (Prices include shipping)
-ACT Street clutch disc= $147.37
-ACT clutch alignment tool=$5
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork=$115 w/ core
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball= $35
-Mopar OEM TOB=$80
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel= $30
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate=$247.32
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals= $32
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder= $234
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP=$13
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)=$40
Grand total= $978.69~~~ in parts
POSSIBLE MANUAL RACK BUSHINGS
Ford 05-07 Super Duty
F81Z-5484-HA
BA
-ACT Street clutch disc= $147.37
-ACT clutch alignment tool=$5
-Wikyd Performance Modified Clutch Fork=$115 w/ core
-Wikyd Performance Brass Pivotball= $35
-Mopar OEM TOB=$80
-Resurfaced ACT ProLite Flywheel= $30
-ACT-D017 Pressure Plate=$247.32
-(2) Mopar Axle Seals= $32
-Mopar Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder= $234
-Mopar Clutch Pivot Fork BOOT & CLIP=$13
-ARP Flexplate bolts (Flexplate bolts are needed for ACT non modular clutch setups)=$40
Grand total= $978.69~~~ in parts
POSSIBLE MANUAL RACK BUSHINGS
Ford 05-07 Super Duty
F81Z-5484-HA
BA
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 8:46 pm
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Remember the noise my transmission was making? Well I think the culprit was found.
I took my transmission to a shop to have them check everything over and assemble it. Well he noticed 3rd and 4th gear were hard to turn. So he disassembled the input shaft and 3rd gear needlebearing was toast. Literally fell apart. So did the snap ring.
So 3rd and 4th gear needlebearings ordered along with retainer nut and snap ring. Got all the parts in the mail to find out I got the wrong snap ring. The tech was leaving to Mexico for a full month too in the next day. So I need to order 05102728AA, its only a $3.50 part but shipping is like $15 on all websites. PWERKS offers a supposed upgraded snap ring for $15 but not sure what is so better about it then the stock one so I emailed them 3/30. Waiting on a response.
Also looking to remove my subframe so I can do my manual rack. Seems like taking that thing off will be a hard without a lift. Tried tackling the sway bar endlink and man they are on too tight...= busted knuckle. Weird they are not metric either, 9/16ths. Probably because its the Hotchkis unit.
I took my transmission to a shop to have them check everything over and assemble it. Well he noticed 3rd and 4th gear were hard to turn. So he disassembled the input shaft and 3rd gear needlebearing was toast. Literally fell apart. So did the snap ring.
So 3rd and 4th gear needlebearings ordered along with retainer nut and snap ring. Got all the parts in the mail to find out I got the wrong snap ring. The tech was leaving to Mexico for a full month too in the next day. So I need to order 05102728AA, its only a $3.50 part but shipping is like $15 on all websites. PWERKS offers a supposed upgraded snap ring for $15 but not sure what is so better about it then the stock one so I emailed them 3/30. Waiting on a response.
Also looking to remove my subframe so I can do my manual rack. Seems like taking that thing off will be a hard without a lift. Tried tackling the sway bar endlink and man they are on too tight...= busted knuckle. Weird they are not metric either, 9/16ths. Probably because its the Hotchkis unit.
Last edited by MyNeonSaysHi on Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
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Removing the subframe isn't too bad, just the steering lines are a pain, but if you are going manual, you could just cut them, if you don't plan on saving them. Undo the rack pinion pinch bolt inside the car, and drop the entire subframe/control arms as an assy. Leave the knuckles/etc attached to the struts. I used a floor jack to lower/raise the assy.
The worst part is balancing it on the jack. But I managed it by myself.
The worst part is balancing it on the jack. But I managed it by myself.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Well I have the knuckles off of the struts because tranny came out. But the ball joints are still in with the knuckles.occasional demons wrote:Removing the subframe isn't too bad, just the steering lines are a pain, but if you are going manual, you could just cut them, if you don't plan on saving them. Undo the rack pinion pinch bolt inside the car, and drop the entire subframe/control arms as an assy. Leave the knuckles/etc attached to the struts. I used a floor jack to lower/raise the assy.
The worst part is balancing it on the jack. But I managed it by myself.
Huge props for doing something like that by yourself.
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N
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I mainly left the knuckles on the struts, so I wouldn't have to pull the axles/deal with the brakes. You could just slap the four bolts back in to hang them from the struts. Or leave them on, but it would be more weight to deal with.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- sidepipe87
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I'll say good luck... When i removed the k frame from my silver car to get it powder coated it was a chore etti g the bolts out. 1 of the big ones broke off in the frame. I had to get a new bolt and a new nut with the flat steel welded on it which is supposed to prevent it from turning... That didnt work for me. It just sliced a hole in the frame rail.
PM me for your 00+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus
- MyNeonSaysHi
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- Location: Kansas
I hope I don't break anything. Will probably buy a can of Kroil:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Heard really good things about it.
So what did you end up doing if it just sliced a hole in your frame rail?
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Heard really good things about it.
So what did you end up doing if it just sliced a hole in your frame rail?
08 Acura TL-S
23 Hyundai Elantra N