How To: Multifunction switch replacement

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01rtgurl
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How To: Multifunction switch replacement

Post by 01rtgurl » Sun Apr 29, 2007 11:18 pm

Seriously. Am I the only one who is not Dodge-electrical-connector competent?! I hate them. All of them!!

Anyways. I recently bought a multifunction switch (MFS) from someone on the boards. About 3 years ago (lol) when making the drive back to college I saw a little bit of smoke coming from the steering column, then it went away. I then had problems with my headlights not coming on, but then they all went away. Well, one day I became curious and took it apart. I found that the main connector was actually melted. The plastic connector is literally cracked and part of the connection inside is melted. The actual multifunction switch itself (the big black thing the connector plugs into) seemed fine, the couple prongs where the melted part had been were slightly off-color. I have read that you can get the harness now, cut off so you can solder it back on I guess. At the time when this happened to me, you had to buy the whole thing.

Well, like I said, 3 years later, after getting tired of seeing my fog lamp "on" indicator come on whenever I turned my headlights on, then go off when I used my turn signal, I decided to replace the MFS. For some reason my headlight stalk that also controls the fogs/turn signals decided to get messed up somehow.

I've taken my column apart many a time and I remember the first time I had no clue what needed to come off in what order so I decided to post up some pics in case anyone is leary of doing this.

Your column is 2 pieces, upper and lower. They snap together and are then held by 2 semi-long screws. You need to unscrew these screws before doing anything else. Look underneath and you'll see 3 holes, the 2 closest to you have the screws in them. Once you get those out (they may not come all the way out and fall out), you can pull the upper part off of the bottom. Depending how small your hands are, you may not even need to take the bottom piece off.

Now that you have the cover(s) off, you can get the harnesses loose. My favorite part! (sarcasm). I managed to break both of mine so... apparently you are supposed to push the little red thing forwards (toward the front of the car), which should release tension on the gray connector. HOWEVER. If you think that's all you need to do, you are wrong. In the next pic, you will see the bump on your MFS that the gray connector(s) need to be pried OVER. If you do not do this, you end up breaking your gray connector. (although they are in so tight, I don't see anyone having issues not having the broken piece, I haven't so far). That's another thing. My big harness was REALLY tight, because it was melted. It took about 20 minutes of prying to get it loose. Be prepared if you expect yours is also melted.

ImageImage
Image

Once you get the harnesses unplugged, you can unscrew the 2 screws on top of the MFS. I don't remember what size, but they are torx.


Image

You can now lift your whole MFS with stalks attached out. Lift straight up. I don't know how OEM MFS's come, but my used one came with both stalks, one was detached to fit in the box (easy to put back on, 2 screws).

Install the new MFS, in reverse order of what you just did. There are 2 "prongs" that seat in a hole on each side (see picture).
Image

There you go, new MFS :rockon:
Image
fusion210: Everytime I ride in a car you're driving I try to make it the last time. D:

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Post by fusion210 » Sun Apr 29, 2007 11:25 pm

:thumbup:

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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:47 pm

Nice. It would be adviseable to disconnect the battery when doing this?

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Post by LowNSlow » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:49 pm

I didn't on my previous cars but when dealing with anything electrical it's wise to disconnect the battery. :P
-John


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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:04 am

FSM states anytime work under, or around the dash area is performed, the battery is to be disconnected for at least a few minutes and remain disconnected, to prevent accidental airbag release. Do we heed the warnings? Sometimes...
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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:09 am

Yeah I thought so. Not sure what I was thinking. Going to replace it tomorrow.

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Post by titansxt » Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:26 am

Back from the dead. Still a good write up.
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:10 pm

Great I am doing this now and the pictures are red X's :wtf:

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:12 pm

Still working here.
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:30 pm

Logged out and logged back in. Working now. :)
Working on getting those damn connectors off. Red tabs don't want to pry out.

Also a couple tips:
With tilt steering, tilt it as low as possible, therefore you have a ton of working space

The torx screws on the top are T-20's.

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:34 pm

They (red tabs) can be a PITA at times. Sometimes they slide right over, and other times not.
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:47 pm

Yeah, I am pushing down on the gray tab connector, while trying to pull the red thing out, which does not want to come out.. :(

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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:05 pm

Haha got it all off in one piece. No broken tabs.

For the windshield wiper connector. I took out both torx screws so I could pull upn on the unit and have space to work with that side. I used a small thing flathead and pried on the red tab out gently as I pushed down on the grey connector. It eventually popped out. Couldn't get grip ont he connector do to the horrible humidity so I put on a pair of gloves and pushed down on the tab and pulled out.

The headlight stock area connector I put it back in place and did the same thing. Red connector eventually gave.

Image
Image
Swapping over windshield wiper stock to new stock. (2-10Torx) Also Relay.
Image
Image
Kind of see how its damaged a bit on the left side of the connectors. Thankfully I can now have headlights on, use right blinker and the foglights do not turn on.
When I originally got the car the previous owner had his mutts in there on a few occasions to the vet. I have done a lot of cleaning since then and got random hair off but sure as shit there is hair in the damn steering columnn. :roll: So I cleaned that all up before putting it all back together.

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Post by Keeper » Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:33 pm

Hello guys,

Where can i find to buy the connector for the multi-function switch? Mine is totaled !!!

Thanks for any help

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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:52 pm

MFS repair kit from the dealer.

5183442AA - wiring harness repair kit List price: $66.95

MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH - GRAY 20 WAY CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 L50 18WT/TN (EXCEPT EXPORT) BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2 L61 18LG LEFT TURN SIGNAL
2 L61 18LG (EXPORT) LEFT TURN SIGNAL
3 L6 20RD/WT FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC)
4 L63 18DG/RD LEFT TURN SIGNAL
4 L63 18DG/RD (EXPORT) LEFT TURN SIGNAL
5 L62 18BR/RD RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
5 L62 18BR/RD (EXPORT) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
6 L60 18TN RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
6 L60 18TN (EXPORT) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
7 Z3 20BK/OR GROUND
8 E19 22RD PANEL LAMPS DIMMER SIGNAL
9 L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
10 - -
11 A15 18WT FUSED B(+)
12 L38 16BR/WT (EXPORT) REAR FOG LAMP FEED
12 L38 16BR/WT (EXPORT) REAR FOG LAMP FEED
13 L4 14VT/WT (EXCEPT EXPORT) DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
13 F61 16WT/OR (EXPORT) FUSED B(+)
14 F39 14PK/LG (EXCEPT EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
14 L39 16LB (EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
14 L39 16LB (EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
15 - -
16 L4 12VT/WT DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
17 L33 14LG/BR DIMMER SWITCH HIGH BEAM OUTPUT
18 F3 12LB/OR FUSED B(+)
19 F3 12LB/OR FUSED B(+)
20 F33 18PK/RD FUSED B(+)
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Post by Themaggots » Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:10 pm

Or you go and hit the junkyard
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Post by Keeper » Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:10 pm

Thank you everybody!!!

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Polobear305
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Post by Polobear305 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:51 pm

I'm have problems.with my tail light.s... The multifunction switch Was melted really bad but then I went to junkyard and I got a new one and I replaced it. Get still my taillights will not light up.. What should I do now I can't drive at night and this Will be my third warning...

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Post by titansxt » Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:53 am

Bulbs burnt?
Fuse?
Brake light pressure switch busted?
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:38 pm

titansxt wrote: Brake light pressure switch busted?
That would be the equivalent of Blinker fluid on ours.

If it is just the tails, and the brake lights work, the ground wouldn't be the issue. Both filaments ground through the same wire. If neither work, check both sides of the trunk on the inside. There are two grounding points behind the "carpet".


The tails are the black/yellow wire, from the MFS to the bulbs. If it is in the MFS/connector, the front marker lights will also be out. If they work, it is in a splice, or connector.
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Post by Polobear305 » Thu Oct 10, 2013 10:54 pm

all my fuses are good ....the brake light relay switch where is that located?

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 11, 2013 8:55 am

There is only the brake light switch, located on the pedal assy.

Do the brake lights not work either? Do the front running lights work?
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Post by Polobear305 » Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:12 am

I fix it !!!!! my dimmer switch was bad ...went to the junk yard and replace it with a 01 neon 's multifunctional switch...

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Post by slickneon19 » Sun Jun 08, 2014 3:38 pm

occasional demons wrote:MFS repair kit from the dealer.

5183442AA - wiring harness repair kit List price: $66.95

MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH - GRAY 20 WAY CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 L50 18WT/TN (EXCEPT EXPORT) BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2 L61 18LG LEFT TURN SIGNAL
2 L61 18LG (EXPORT) LEFT TURN SIGNAL
3 L6 20RD/WT FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC)
4 L63 18DG/RD LEFT TURN SIGNAL
4 L63 18DG/RD (EXPORT) LEFT TURN SIGNAL
5 L62 18BR/RD RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
5 L62 18BR/RD (EXPORT) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
6 L60 18TN RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
6 L60 18TN (EXPORT) RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
7 Z3 20BK/OR GROUND
8 E19 22RD PANEL LAMPS DIMMER SIGNAL
9 L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
10 - -
11 A15 18WT FUSED B(+)
12 L38 16BR/WT (EXPORT) REAR FOG LAMP FEED
12 L38 16BR/WT (EXPORT) REAR FOG LAMP FEED
13 L4 14VT/WT (EXCEPT EXPORT) DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
13 F61 16WT/OR (EXPORT) FUSED B(+)
14 F39 14PK/LG (EXCEPT EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
14 L39 16LB (EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
14 L39 16LB (EXPORT) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
15 - -
16 L4 12VT/WT DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT
17 L33 14LG/BR DIMMER SWITCH HIGH BEAM OUTPUT
18 F3 12LB/OR FUSED B(+)
19 F3 12LB/OR FUSED B(+)
20 F33 18PK/RD FUSED B(+)
Is this for the pigtail?
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Post by Jenni » Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:32 am

no, this is a receipt for tasty cookies :-/

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Post by slickneon19 » Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:43 pm

LMAO......yea i got the MFS and MFS repairt kit this morning. Time to fix it tonight!
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