12w6

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 1:16 pm

ok...so i finally got around to pricing a jl audio 12w6 at some local shops, which i plan on picking up either saturday or sunday. (got some really good prices suprisingly, one place would see it for $100 less then the other three shops). I already bought the 500/1 used off of a friend. couple of questions...

i know this sub comes with a one year warranty from jl audio, but should i spring for the three year warranty for another 50 dollars?

2nd, i've been told to build the box (ported) with mdf 5/8ths of an inch thick, and to use liquid nails to help seal...any other suggestions or ideas?

tia for any help!

eastwoodsn352 · Post by **eastwoodsn352** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 1:19 pm

http://www.caraudioimage.com/index.cfm? ... uct_ID=394

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 1:38 pm

eastwoodsn352 wrote:http://www.caraudioimage.com/index.cfm? ... uct_ID=394

i found a shop to sell for just over that and with a one year warranty. jl audio won't warranty any purchase made over the internet i believe

eastwoodsn352 · Post by **eastwoodsn352** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:34 pm

oh ok well your going to love that setup...my friend has the 12" W6v2 in the JL audio box in his celica GTS on the 500/1 amp and it sounds amazing.

mynameiskiller · Post by **mynameiskiller** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:45 pm

beelay wrote:
2nd, i've been told to build the box (ported) with mdf 5/8ths of an inch thick, and to use liquid nails to help seal...any other suggestions or ideas?

tia for any help!

i think i would use 3/4" MDF if i were you...

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:47 pm

mynameiskiller wrote:
beelay wrote:
2nd, i've been told to build the box (ported) with mdf 5/8ths of an inch thick, and to use liquid nails to help seal...any other suggestions or ideas?

tia for any help!
i think i would use 3/4" MDF if i were you...

will the 1/8th of an inch really matter that much?

and is this me specifically because of what i'll be running?

mynameiskiller · Post by **mynameiskiller** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:56 pm

yes. aside from the technical resonant frequencies involved and whatnot, youre putting a 20 lb high excursion vibrator on a sheet of pressed sawdust... you are going to want all the mass you can get with the box. i believe that JL reccomends the use of at least 3/4" for its entire subwoofer line, from w1 to w7... i guess 5/8" would work, but in my personal experience, the 3/4" is worth the extra money/weight.

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:24 pm

sounds good i'll go with 3/4" then

ok update. I called tweeter (they quoted me 460 for the sub) to see if they would match 350 that the other shop was selling the sub for. So the guy at tweeter audio called the other shop and asked him a ton of questions as if he was going to buy the sub himself. Tweeter then called back and said that the sub had been used, refirbished, and was being resold, which is why they were selling for that cheap of a price. This is difficult to understand because on the jl audio website they listed this little shop as well as tweeter as reliable shops to go to in my area. So why would this shop sell a somewhat used sub and give the impression that they just had damn good prices. Am I getting smoke blown up my ass from tweeter or the other little shop?

any help will be greatly appreciated. tia

atom · Post by **atom** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:53 pm

beelay wrote:Am I getting smoke blown up my ass from tweeter or the other little shop?

any help will be greatly appreciated. tia

How on earth would we know? Call tweeter.

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:24 am

atom wrote:
beelay wrote:Am I getting smoke blown up my ass from tweeter or the other little shop?

any help will be greatly appreciated. tia
How on earth would we know? Call tweeter.

thanks guy you're helping me out alot

i'm just wondering if anyone has specifically dealt with tweeter and knows how things are run.

eastwoodsn352 · Post by **eastwoodsn352** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:26 pm

tweeter does a DAMN good job installing but they are a lil pricey.....quality costs though

Anonymous User · Post by **Anonymous User** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:42 pm

dont get a JL audio, its all jsut hype. your just paying for the name. there many other brands that are better then JL in sq, or sql. i would look into getting something thats underground brand. And use 3/4" or 1" think MDF.

I reccomend brands such as Resonant Enginering, TC sounds, Soundsplinter, Digital Designs, Audioque, Treo. and many others.

What are do you want out of your system SQ [ sound quality ] or SPL [ sound pressure level ] or a mix of both SQL?

Also what is your budget?

beelay · Post by **beelay** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:37 am

sorry Anonymous User, I went with the 12W6. I was basing it off past experience with jl. I had a 12w3 and enjoyed it very much. The guy at Tweeter was very helpful and actually knocked off quite a bit off the price so it wasn't toooo expensive.

Before I wanted to make a ported box, but now i've decided just to make a sealed box. I have been told that the sound quality is better in sealed boxes. Hopefully this weekend I will get around to building it.

Thanks everyone for the help.

03sxt · Post by **03sxt** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:10 pm

Anonymous User wrote:dont get a JL audio, its all jsut hype. your just paying for the name.

Yeah, Pyramid's sound just as good as JL Audio.

eastwoodsn352 · Post by **eastwoodsn352** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:49 pm

hahahah

Anonymous User · Post by **Anonymous User** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:52 pm

03sxt wrote:
Anonymous User wrote:dont get a JL audio, its all jsut hype. your just paying for the name.

Yeah, Pyramid's sound just as good as JL Audio.

i didnt mean it like that, i was trying to make the point that there are better companies out there that will out perform JL audio for a cheaper price.

yellowsxt23 · Post by **yellowsxt23** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 8:44 pm

he's right on this, treo has i dont know how many world records checkem out. me i am a mb quart man, good warranty good quality reasonable price on lower end products. for all out go focal. i have personally heard a single treo sub in a gti that hit 147.6 no wall, now thats f'n loud, the kicker is he scored 1 point shy of perfect in sq. good stuff, jl was kind in 90's but are only average by today;s standards.

bigjim · Post by **bigjim** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 9:39 pm

i like the 13 inch w7 now thats a badass speaker

anyway audiobahn seems pretty good for a reasonable price heres a link to a pretty cheap website for car audio and video

http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/

Anonymous User · Post by **Anonymous User** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm

bigjim wrote:i like the 13 inch w7 now thats a badass speaker

anyway audiobahn seems pretty good for a reasonable price heres a link to a pretty cheap website for car audio and video

http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/

audiobahn is something i dont reccomend, i knows it cheap and all. it looks to be that he wants something comparable to jl.

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:12 am

ill chime in on the box issue.....

MDF yes, but use 3/4", not 5/8". when you're building it, use wood glue to actually seal the seams together, wood glue will seal 100x better than liquid nail by itself. I would suggest a SMALL amount of liquid nail on the inside corners though, but DONT install your sub in it for a while till it's fully cured. Liquid nails has a chemical which its fumes are known to cause early deterioration of subwoofer surrounds...

I build a box for 2 12's, ported, and i didnt use ANY liquid nails, only a good bead of wood glue on all mating edges of wood and it was PERFECTLY sealed. (as sealed as a ported box can be). Once i had the box complete i put the subs in, put down some power, and gave them a good full blast 40Hz sine wave, felt all the edges for leaks and there wasnt a SINGLE ONE. Wood Glue FTW!

I HIGHLY suggest you make your box tuned to 35Hz. This will give you the best overall performance between LOW bass and mid level bass. A good 35Hz box will be a killer box for you and I'm 100% positive you'll love it

Anyways, that's my $0.02 about box building

yellowsxt23 · Post by **yellowsxt23** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 1:32 am

vented boxes belong in home stereos, unless you are looking for absolute spl or the speakers perform better in a vented box, ie made for a vented box. go sealed its easier to build, tune, and you have a better controlled sub, yes the w6 has reccomended vented box specs, but have you ever heard one when someone push them to there limit in a vented box, they start to bottom very easily and hard, most consumers dont know the difference betteween good quality bass and distortion, other than apushing a sub into distortion seems louder. plus vented boxes are larger therefore heavier, i do agree with using 3/4 mdf and wood glue, also buy a can of cheap sound deadner at wallyworld and spray the inside of the enclousure it will help with some of the reasonace, then buy some polyfill again wally world or a craft shop its the stuff inside pillows, put appoximatly 1 lb for every sq. ft of airspace you have inside the box, this will help with making the sub think its in a larger box, the last suggestions arnt super important but they will help. as far as the debate between vented or sealed its really a matter of preference, just bustin ur chops on the veted thing nitehawk, just prefer sealed for maost aplications

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:22 am

its cool, i've ran both, i know the benefits of both, and i've even seen (and built) some KILLER sealed boxes.

Build whatever style you want, just keep this main factory in mind:

if you want a lot of lows, go ported, if you r bass is higher, like above 60Hz most of the time, go sealed.

2GN.ORG

12w6

12w6

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