Cam questions

01NeOnEs · Post by **01NeOnEs** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:49 am

ok well i purchased a crane 12 and crane valve springs. i was wondering if anyone had any idea on how to remove the cam withouth taking off the head. people that i have talked to said that you wont have to and others said that i would. and i dont want to purchase new rocker arms they would be like almost 600 for intake and exhaust. i want to replace the latch adjuster but i have no idea how to remove em. also i want to get rt valve sping retainers but the dealer needs to know if there single or triple bead lock. i have no idea which to get. need some help please

white2000neon · Post by **white2000neon** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:55 am

You can change the cam without taking out the head. You have to unbolt the motor mounts on the passenger side and get a jack under there and lift that side of the motor up to slide the cam out. I think the normal sohc heads were 1 groove retainers and the magnums were 3 groove. I know mine are 3 groove, but not completely sure thats what i remember hearing.

tamadrumr88 · Post by **tamadrumr88** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:03 am

crank your steering wheel full lock to the left.. there is a ground wire running from the strut to a plastic circular piece sitting on the splash shield closest to the trans... get a flathead screwdriver and pry that plastic piece out.... in there youll see the load-bearing bolt for the trans... its a very long bolt iirc its 19mm. sometimes youll have to unbolt that to get enough movement...

everyone that ive read on how to do it without pulling the head off just removes all the battery crap, cam position sensor, etc and you basically slide it out the driver's side..... the reason for removing the motor mounts on the passenger side is because the engine bracket (passenger side) is a PITA to get at, but that needs to come off so you can get at the timing cover, cam gear, etc so you can slide the cam out

white2000neon · Post by **white2000neon** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:06 am

I thought that the cam came out on the passenger side along with the gear. You could pm 03blackrt he did a cam in hiswithout taking out the head im pretty sure, he'll know.

01NeOnEs · Post by **01NeOnEs** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:28 am

if i mark the cam gear and belt before its all apart, when i put it all back together and the gear and the belt line up the timing will be correct, right? another thing is the tensoner for the timing belt,its hydrolic how the hell do i release the tenson? anyone have any idea on the adjusters?

white2000neon · Post by **white2000neon** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:35 am

I forget exactly how it is but there should be a mark on the crank gear i think, but you have to make sure the cam is in correctly. I forget exactly how to do it its been a while since i did it in my last car. Maybe someone else can chime in on how to do it. I was just looking you dont live that far from me.

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:36 am

cam comes out the back (drivers side) of the engine.

remember, r/t valve springs must be oriented properly when installed

find yourself a copy of the mopar repair manual, that has a good procedure for replacing the cam. you do not have to remove the head, that would be much more work then needed.

you will need to pressurize each cylinder when you go and switch your valve springs.

The Great White Buffalo wrote: CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.

(2) Disconnect positive battery cable. Remove the
battery

(3) Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/INLET
AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR - DESCRIPTION)
.
(4) Disconnect the following:
² Air intake duct at throttle body
² Throttle cables
² TPS and IAC connectors
² Make-up air hose at air cleaner housing

(5) Remove the air cleaner housing assembly
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR
CLEANER HOUSING - REMOVAL).

(6) Remove the battery tray. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - REMOVAL)

(7) Remove the front timing belt cover, timing belt,
and tensioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).

( 8 ) Remove the camshaft sprocket and rear timing
belt cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT COVER(S) - REMOVAL).

(9) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).

(10) Mark rocker arm shaft assemblies so that
they are installed in their original positions.

(11) Remove rocker arm and shaft assemblies
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL).

(12) Drain cooling system below heater hose level.

(13) Disconnect the ECT sensor electrical connector.

(14) Disconnect hoses from heater supply and
return tubes.

(15) Remove heater tube support bracket bolts at
rear of cylinder head.

(16) Remove PDC attaching screws and reposition
for camshaft removal clearance.

(17) Remove camshaft sensor and camshaft target
magnet (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL).

(18 ) Carefully remove camshaft from the rear of
cylinder head. Reposition heater tubes and PDC for
camshaft clearance (Fig. 30).

(19) Remove the camshaft seal (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT OIL
SEAL(S) - REMOVAL).

Fred Bear wrote: VALVE SPRING REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD ON

(1) Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)

(2) Remove rocker arm shafts assemblies. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL)

(3) Rotate crankshaft until piston is at TDC on
compression stroke.

(4) With air hose attached to adapter tool installed
in spark plug hole, apply 90-120 psi air pressure.

(5) Using Special Tool MD-998772A with adapter
6779 (Fig. 37)compress valve springs and remove
valve locks.

(6) Remove the valve spring.

(7) Remove the valve stem seal. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE STEM SEALS -
REMOVAL)

Janet Reno wrote: INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
NOTE: Make sure the word “front” on the sprocket
is facing outward.
CAUTION: Use of Special Tool 6792 is required to
install the crankshaft sprocket to the proper depth.
Failure to use this tool will cause improper timing
belt tracking.

(1) Install the crankshaft sprocket (Fig. 160) using
Special Tool 6792.

INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
(1) Install camshaft sprocket. While holding
sprockets with Special Tools C-4687 and modified
Adaptor C-4687-1, tighten attaching bolt to 115 N·m
(85 ft. lbs.).

(2) Install timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).

INSTALLATION - TIMING BELT

(1) Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the
sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing,
then back off to 3 notches before TDC (Fig. 161).

(2) Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on
sprocket with the arrow on the rear timing belt cover
(Fig. 162).

(3) Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC (Fig.
163) for belt installation.

(4) Install the timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft,
go around the water pump sprocket, then
around the camshaft sprocket, and finally route the
back side of the timing belt around the timing belt
tensioner pulley.

(5) Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up
belt slack.

(6) Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon
opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner
pulley. Rotate the top plate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
The tensioner pulley will move against the
belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually
start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of
the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate
counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned
with the spring tang (Fig. 164). Using the allen
wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque
the tensioner lock nut to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.). Setting
notch and spring tang should remain aligned after
lock nut is torqued.

(7) Remove allen wrench and torque wrench.
NOTE: Repositioning the crankshaft to the TDC
position must be done only during the CLOCKWISE
rotation movement. If TDC is missed, rotate a further
two revolutions until TDC is achieved. DO NOT
rotate crankshaft counterclockwise as this will
make verification of proper tensioner setting impossible.

(8 ) Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete
revolutions manually for seating of the belt,
until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position.
Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing
marks are in proper position (Fig. 166).

9) Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance
window (Fig. 165). If the spring tang is within the
tolerance window, the installation process is complete
and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is
not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 6
through 8.

(10) Install front timing belt cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).

(11) Install spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - INSTALLATION).

(12) Perform camshaft and crankshaft timing
relearn procedure as follows:
² Connect the DRB IIIt scan tool to the data link
(diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in
the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of
instrument panel near the steering column.
² Turn the ignition switch on.
² Access “Engine” diagnostics.
² Select “Miscellaneous” option.
² Select “ReLearn Cam Crank” option and follow
directions on DRBIIIt screen.

Garfunkel wrote: ROCKER ARM / HYDRAULIC
LASH ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.

(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.

(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder
head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.

(3) During this time, turn engine off and let set for
a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several
times after engine has reached normal operating
temperature.

(4) Low oil pressure.

(5) The oil restrictor (integral to the head gasket)
in the vertical oil passage to the cylinder head is
plugged with debris.

(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.

(7) Worn valve guides.

(8) Missing swivel foot on lash adjuster.

(9) Incorrect rocker shaft installation.

(10) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum
extension and still leaves lash in the system.

(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
² Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker
arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very
firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
² Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace as
necessary.

REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)

(2) Identify the rocker arm shaft assemblies before
removal.

(3) Loosen the attaching fasteners. Remove rocker
arm shaft assemblies from cylinder head.

(4) Identify the rocker arms spacers and retainers
for reassembly. Disassemble the rocker arm assemblies
by removing the attaching bolts from the shaft
(Fig. 25).

(5) Slide the rocker arms and spacers off the shaft.
Keep the spacers and rocker arms in the same location
for reassembly.

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring, wear on the
roller or damage to the rocker arm (Fig. 26). Replace
as necessary.

(2) Check the location where the rocker arms
mount to the shafts for wear or damage. Replace if
damaged or worn.

(3) The rocker arm shaft is hollow and is used as a
lubrication oil duct. Check oil holes for clogging with
small wire, clean as required.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Set crankshaft to 3 notches before TDC
before installing rocker arm shafts. Refer to Timing
Belt System and Camshaft Seal Service of this section
for procedure.

(1) Lubricate the rocker arms and spacers. Install
onto shafts in their original position (Fig. 25).

(2) Install rocker arm/hydraulic lash adjuster
assembly making sure that adjusters are at least
partially full of oil. This is indicated by little or no
plunger travel when the lash adjuster is depressed. If
there is excessive plunger travel. Place the rocker
arm assembly into clean engine oil and pump the
plunger until the lash adjuster travel is taken up. If
travel is not reduced, replace the assembly. Hydraulic
lash adjuster and rocker arm are serviced as an
assembly.

(3) Install rocker arm and shaft assemblies with
NOTCH in the rocker arm shafts pointing up and
toward the timing belt side of the engine (Fig. 27).
Install the retainers in their original positions on the
exhaust and intake shafts (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: When installing the intake rocker arm
shaft assembly be sure that the plastic spacers do
not interfere with the spark plug tubes. If the spacers
do interfere rotate until they are at the proper
angle. To avoid damaging the spark plug tubes, do
not attempt rotating the spacers by forcing down
the shaft assembly.

(4) Verify that hydraulic lash adjuster swivel feet
are still in place.

(5) Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) in
sequence shown in (Fig. 28).

(6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

01NeOnEs · Post by **01NeOnEs** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 4:19 pm

ok but it really doesnt specify how to remove the lash adjusters from the rocker arm.

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:05 pm

sure it does...

Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace as
necessary.

unfortinitly that is as much help as the factory service manual is.

01NeOnEs · Post by **01NeOnEs** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:28 am

so that whole post is from the service manual?

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 10:05 am

Parts of it.

01NeOnEs · Post by **01NeOnEs** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:50 pm

any ideas on where to get a mopar service manual for decently cheap?

Post by **Diablo0** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 3:52 pm

Sometimes they pop up on ebay but typically the best way to get them is through DCx at their TechAuthority website.

https://techauthority.gltghosting.com/w ... ogId=10051